Plenty of work to do 3 engines to build.

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I had to buy one as mine died. It had not been used much! I will never buy anything Black and Decker again as it sure did not hold up. That is why I bought a Dremel. I have less then $140 in my whole set up.
 
i think youll find you will get more power from a clone rear dom then the cpi pipe, you will never find a pipe thats perfectly on balance and 100% protected

i also gave you a metric squish of 0.5mm witch is .20 thou (.197)

the eyest way to increase power is to give the motor more compresion, the european guys say don't go under .4mm or .16 thou and ive found from personal expernce any lower then this heads crack and piston pins bend, but power is good
 
I never ran a rear DOM but have talked to those that have run both the rear DOM and the CPI. They say the DOM has more punch low end but the CPI is much smother and better through the whole RPM range. The CPI pipe has plenty of low end and if it was any better I could not keep the front wheels on the ground. They try to come up now from a dead stop when I punch it on grass with a stock engine. So I think the CPI has enough low end. All so the CPI is much better protected.

Yes I know you where talking metric on the squish as kind of stated in my post 16. I would rather keep it on the safe side and plan on staying at .020 to .022.
Thanks for the input.
 
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the pipe sounds good, and the most iimportant thing your happy with it.

with the squish i some times forget the guys in the usa are thou and us australians are mm
 
Might be pipes that make more power but I am taking in consideration all the factors. I have a side Mielke and it got knocked loose during a race and cost me a DNF. I liked the Mielke but does not hold a candle to the CPI. I wish I had the money to buy and try many pipes. LOL

For those not familiar with the CPI here are a few pictures of the standard pipe on my 5b SS. I ordered there big bore pipe today.
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they are slowly kicking of in australia, the only think i don't like about them is they stick above the rollcage, from a bashers point of veiw who has no intrest in racing this would be a weakness from my point of veiw.

on my baja befor i sold it i tryed a heap of pipes and found the ddm the best all rounder for bashing, the v3 was good on tight work with good top end, the side pipes ended in tears for me and the best value for money was a clone rear dom lols
 
If you take a straight edge from the top of the plug guard to the rear wing it is below a little. Yes I understand the wing and plug guard will flex a little. The pipes are very well made and do not think there will be a problem. They are defiantly better protected then 90% or better of the pipes out there. If you think they take a beating bashing you need to get about 10 of them running around a track. I wish I had a dollar when racing when I had one land on top of me coming off a jump or having a collision in mid air. LOL
 
i used to bust alot of spark plugs, roll cages and some pipes from hard landings from big jumops gone wrong, so the rear wing and cage flexies enough to break plugs, heads and ss pips, the hbz cage stoped this
 
I do not do real big air only the jumps on the track which you get about 4 to 5 feet maybe a little more. The CPI is made of steel and is quite thick. The only thing I do not like about it so far is it is heavy but steel is the best material to make a pipe out of as far as performance goes.

One thing I found out years ago about pipes when I was racing 1/8 scale is pipes lots of times is personal preference. Has a lot to do with your driving style.
 
the best thing about pipes thats there is so many out there for the hpi baja,s and clones and we all like some thing difrent, and what suits me will not suit you, what i find ugly you will like, what a basher needs and a racer needs are oftern diffrent.
 
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