Plenty of work to do 3 engines to build.

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46u

46u

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,185
Location
Macon, Georgia
I sure have my work cut out. Below is some of the parts for the 3 engines I will be working on. All the parts below are new. I all so have other new parts like pull starters, coils and so on. The first one is a race ported DDM GP290 top end. I will be using the DS templates to help as well as opening the ports up matching the cases and cylinder. TFE bearings ADA billet intake manifold and 813 carb,


I just received my ONB ported and machined for the plus 2mm (30mm) crank 30.5 kit. Great service from these guys!!!!! Ordered the kit Friday and it came in today. I live clear on the other side of the country from them. Even thaw there porting is more radical then the DDM GP290 race ported kit I will still have quite a bit of work to do as far as matching the cylinder with the case. At first check it will be as much as the DDM ported GP290 Kit. I will all so be getting a ADA billet intake for it and a 813 carb. On top of the cylinder they have .022 so I am guessing that is the squish they have the cylinder machined for. I will check this when time comes like I will on all my engines.


Then I have a totally stock 34mm 26cc with stock stroke that will be the one I try a total port job on my self after some practice. If I get another bottom end at a good price I will all so build it as complete engine. If not I will try the cylinder on my stock 26CC in my 5b SS right now.

What are peoples opinion on cutting the piston skirt on the intake side? Any information would be great.

I hope to start doing some practicing on my test cylinders this week. The ones people sent me that have plating problems and are use.

I am hoping to get a degree wheel either this week or next as I want to degree the GP290 and the ONB 30.5 before assembling and all so will need it when I port the stock 34mm I have.

3enginesbobuild.gif
 
All three cylinders I have will take about the same amount of work. The cases will not take as much. Here is my GP290 with the DS template installed.
DDM36mm.gif
 
I just bought the ESP fully ported GP290 version with a 2mm crank for my FG MT. Together with a high end dom pipe and the Walbro 813 carb, this thing screams!

So for your GP290 what will you be puting it into? Do you have a pipe?

Hills
 
I will be running all 3 of coarse one at a time in my highly up graded HPI 5b SS. I mostly race. As far as a pipe and I waiting on CPI to come out with there new big bore pipe. Right now on my stock CY 26 I am running their standard version.
 
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This is pretty much what I have in it at the moment.

HPI Baja 5B SS Kit

Team Associated throttle brake
DS1015 servo
201oz
0.108 speed

Turtle Racing
Complete Clutch System (Orange)

Turtle Racing
HD Tranny Plate (Orange)

Threshold
Shock Umbrella Seals with installation tool

Turtle Racing
Heavy Duty Front Chassis Brace

HPI
Front tire molded foams

washers for e clip conversion

Fast Eddie
Wheel Shim Kit

Scorpion Chassis Brace Satin

Pro-Match 6v 4200mAh Hump Receiver Battery

FF Front/Side Windows Smoked

Modified Pico Failsafe / Soldered Kill Switch Combo

Outerwares pull starter cover

PhatDad Fan Cover Saver

Nomadio RX

Quick Release Roll Cage Tubes

Pro-line Bow-Tie Rear Tire Set With Blue Foam Inserts

Hostile Mini MX Tire Soft

Lauterbacher 4 shoe adjustable off road clutch

Outlaw RC upper rear turnbuckles

HPI 87454 Engine mount brace set CF

Team Phat Dad
Front stainless steering turnbuckle set

87549 - HPI HD front aluminum shock mount

CPI Tuned Pipe

Full Force CF brake disc and alloy pads

HPI 87572 alloy heavy duty brake mount

CraftWerks-RC Billet Spur Gear Carrier

Team FastEddy Complete Bearing kit

HPI Heavy Duty 20T Drive Gear 86487

HPI Heavy-Duty Idle Gear 30 Tooth 86485

HPI Heavy Duty Differential Gear 48T:Baja 85481

Skunkworks Titanium Lay shaft

Multiplex Rhino Digi 4 steering servo

PA Racing Servo Bracket
 
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Yup..Good case clean-up and match cylinders....will help the over all preformance..
as well as a great tune pipe......gains would be 1 to 1-1/2 hp.....Depends on if you
want torque on low & mid range...with std crank......Of course you know this from
your cycle engine building.......these small engine's are basicly the same...no valves tho
all on port timing...or window timing...transfer work ..piston work......
Not much to work with for cylinder skirt..pretty thin.........I like Zen 4 bolt stuff....
Ther are many engine builders out there.....I like O'Neil Brothers....sean does
some radical work..more that other builders.....Scott does great work for the SiKK Marine
Heads......These are just my opinions.....No offence to any engine builder...........
Enjoy the hobby.......Slawhammer
 
As soon as Zen comes out with their 36mm 4 bolt cylinder kit I am going to get a G240 port the 36mm cylinder and build it. Hopefully but then I will have plenty of practice on porting.

The reason I am going with the CY now is I picked up two NEW complete bottom with cases, crank, flywheel, clutch housing shipped for about $85. Like the one in the top right corner of the picture. Have not taken that one apart yet but both was like that when I got them. The stock NEW 34mm 26 CY cylinder which will be my first complete port job for $17 shipped. All so rather practice on the CY then a Zen.

I have 6 used cylinders that are not runnable to practice on before ever putting a bur to a new piece of meta.

Looking for recommendations on port timing and squish. Do not want to go border line and want to keep it in a safe zone.
Thanks
 
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I am enjoying this as I honestly have little knowledge of porting. did some crank balancing and fixing flow inside nitros but that's it. never done any cutting/filing of the ports though
 
46: I find for the squish 20 is a good number to stay at....for these 2 stroke engines...
port timing does not change too much...Maybe 1* degree.....Did you get a Degree wheel
yet........Note: side porting of the piston will help as well.........But the best of all is the
case clean up & cylinder matching....that will allow more flow.......
releive the piston ring.....taking off.. (.002) 2 thousands from the piston top edge
too 2mm below the ring groove.....will help foem a engine seage..or freezing the piston
in the cylinder.......Slaw
 
Hey guys,
Does anyone know when the new 36mm Zen is coming out? I would love to have ESP build me a case reed with that motor? Thats gotta hit 7hp I would think with a good pipe right?
 
Hills said:
Hey guys,
Does anyone know when the new 36mm Zen is coming out? I would love to have ESP build me a case reed with that motor? Thats gotta hit 7hp I would think with a good pipe right?
Click to expand...

From what I have been told the 36mm Zen top end kit will be out the end of the year. They are not going to make a whole engine just sell the top end kit as a up grade. They all so will not be making one for 2 bolt engines. As far as pipe best thing to do is ask the person that does the porting work.
 
Slaw I have a degree wheel that is about or bigger then these little engines I use on Harley s! LOL I am either going to make one or buy one not sure yet. If I had all the money I have in tools and machines I could live for many years with out a pay check. I am not only a motor head but a tool fanatic.

On the two top ends I have that are race ported I plain on seeing what the port timing is as well as the new 34mm stock cylinder I have. I am guessing being race ported they more then likely did not change the port time unless maybe on the 30.5 because of the longer stroke.

On the O,Niel Brothers racing 30.50 machined and ported kit it has .022 in marker on the top so I am guessing that is what the squish is set at. Of coarse I will check it as well as all the engines I build.

Not sure how much work I will get done on the engines this month as I need to take my mother on vacation which at her age and health could be her last and the weekend of the 26th I have a race.

Please guys keep any thoughts you have coming and I do appreciate any input.
 
Been really busy but did get a degree wheel. I have two races coming up one 600 miles away in the next 3 weeks. I am hoping to get off my lazy butt and start working on at least one of my engines. Right now I do not have a back up engine and sure need to get at least one ready so I can pull the stock engine and keep if for back up. I am all so going to be getting a CPI big bore pipe. I have there standard pipe made for stock engines and really like it so I will get their big bore pipe made for bigger displacement.
 
CPI say the big bore pipe gets .5 hp and 800rpm over the std pipe when put on big bore engines im told

the vrc pipe has a higher figers i thought upto 2.5hp bost

as for squish i like 0.5mm any lower then 0.4mm things tend to crack and bend :nono:
 
I am guessing you are talking about the VRC race pipe. Just a few things I do not like about it. It is heaver, it is not well protected as well as puts all the weight to the left side that makes the car off balance. Good pipe just not for me.

As far as squash I am going to stay with what most of the commercial engine builders use to be on the safe side which is close to what you recommend .020-.022 inch.

I have talked to Mike at CPI numerous times and you are correct on there claims.
Thank you for your input.
 
:drool: I love that setup man.

I got the same at home, it is killer for projects. I don't know were I would be without my Dremel.


Chris
 
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