Project Electric Torque LOSI 5IVE-T

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This runs on two 8s batteries in series (hence the anti spark connector).

Tires and wheels are ProLine, but I’m not sure which tread.
 
Looks amazing. I cannot imagine the plastic diff cases and bulkheads lasting with that amount of power and RPM, lol.

Do you know if those battery trays are available without the motor/esc as well?
 
tacky187 said:
Looks amazing. I cannot imagine the plastic diff cases and bulkheads lasting with that amount of power and RPM, lol.

Do you know if those battery trays are available without the motor/esc as well?
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Thank you. It’s almost brand new
 
tacky187 said:
Looks amazing. I cannot imagine the plastic diff cases and bulkheads lasting with that amount of power and RPM, lol.

Do you know if those battery trays are available without the motor/esc as well?
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It looks like the top tuning conversion kit. I made my own battery trays. Got a 3D printer?
 
tacky187 said:
Actually, I do!

And I thought it was this kit: https://www.mgm-controllers.com/esc-motor-combo-for-losi-5ive-t-conversion-kit
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I am pretty sure that is the top tuning kit on the mgm site. Everything looks identical to mine, including every little hole in the battery tray for adjustments.

I made my own trays because my batteries are too long for that top tuning kit. And I don’t feel like buying all new batteries. Send me a message if you need the files. Disclaimer - I haven’t actually driven the car with them yet. And I reused the metal side braces from the top tuning kit for my trays, so I suppose they may not be super helpful to you, unfortunately.


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What did you print them with? I have some PLA and PLA+ but can't get ABS to print worth beans. If the file is STL I can try it out.

Mine looks like this now.

Rovan LT540.jpg
 
Abs is a pain to print if your printer isn't dialed in really well. Needs an enclosure, (heated is best, but preheating with the print bed is usually good enough.) Use magi-goo or some sort of glue to keep it in the print bed. Cooling fans can be set low or turned off. Hot end has to get hot enough and still be able to keep up with print speeds, which is really hard to do if you don't have a high temp (300*c) or a volcano set up. I have a cheapo tent thing I pop over my ender, but I have to slow my print speeds down to 40-50 mms to get any quality. It stinks pretty bad too. I have slightly better results with ASA or modified ABS materials.
If you can't get either to print well, PETG is a reasonable alternative. 80*c bed temp, hairspray or glue and 250*c hot end. No enclosure is typically needed. Strong enough for most applications where it's not super structural. Holds up to heat better then pla or pla+.
 
StretchMaK said:
What did you print them with? I have some PLA and PLA+ but can't get ABS to print worth beans. If the file is STL I can try it out.
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I used PETG, 7 walls, 40% infill. You could probably go with fewer walls and less infill if using a better filament like PC or Nylon.

I would actually recommend PETG over ABS for this type of application. ABS can be a little soft and cause the mounting screws to loosen.

I definitely wouldn't trust PLA or PLA+ as they are too brittle. You want a plastic with a tiny bit of give / impact resistance.
 
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I don't have any PETG on hand but have had success with it in the past. I use a Neptune 2s or 4. Also have a small resin printer.

I tried all of the things that Seandonato73 listed to get ABS to work right. Just no luck with it. I have had a lil success with small abs things, right in the very center of the build plate size stuff. I think if I get another printer the build plate heating will be what I look at most, seems to be the big issue with ABS.
 
StretchMaK said:
I don't have any PETG on hand but have had success with it in the past. I use a Neptune 2s or 4. Also have a small resin printer.

I tried all of the things that Seandonato73 listed to get ABS to work right. Just no luck with it. I have had a lil success with small abs things, right in the very center of the build plate size stuff. I think if I get another printer the build plate heating will be what I look at most, seems to be the big issue with ABS.
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Printers with built-in enclosures are a game changer for ABS/ASA, nylon, and PC. Especially if they have an active heated chamber.

I use the Qidi X-Plus 3.
 
Abs does all sorts of funky things if the temp changes too much or a small draft in the room. Just an utter pain without an elclosed printer. The bed heaters can be upgraded to a degree. I ended up swapping my heater and build plate out pretty quickly as the stock ender s1 build plate is straight up garbage imo. Couldn't keep it from warping to save my butt. Golf coast robotics 6mm machined plated and 100w heater pad. (Think it was 100w.) I've done about as much to it as I care to.
My wife is really into making Halloween costumes, so something helmet size is a must with the next printer. Enclosure is a must, I really want to be able to print abs, pc etc we'll. Been looking at the creality k1 max and the bamboo labs p1s. Ideally I'd like both but can only afford one or the other.
 
Question for you expert 3D Printers in here. I am converting my 30 DNB to a center diff and it moves the diff from the back to the front. I have zero confidence in drilling the chassis and not messing it up, so I was thinking about 3D printing a chassis adapter that would hold the diff and motor mount and then have holes to attach to the chassis.

Do you think think a 3D printed plate would be sturdy enough? If so, any recommendations on material to use and how to tackle it?
 
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