School me on diffs!

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Bizzer

Canadian Rednek! 🍻
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So being new to this I am trying to determine what parts I need. I want to do things once and right so I am relying on you guys! Rather than being a leach I have attempted research this based on multiple threads on the forum.

This is what I have come up with. Using heavier diff fluids cause increased operating temps. At higher temps the stock plastic cases warp/leak suffer increased wear etc, hopefully this is correct? At what hp & viscosities are upgraded aluminum diff cases required?

My current plan is an OBR 34 SS running 60,000 front, 500,000 center and 100,000 rear. Is this suitable?

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Heavier fluid doesn't mean the diff will automatically run hotter, typically should run cooler because its dividing the power more equally to the front and rear axles. For bashing purposes I think your on point, I'm jumping up to 1mil in the center of my 5ive t next round, still throwing bit too much power to the front wheels with the 500k fluid in the center.
I also think a lot of diff issues are from leaking diffs, bearing issues and too thin fluid for power levels.
 
Heavier fluid doesn't mean the diff will automatically run hotter, typically should run cooler because its dividing the power more equally to the front and rear axles. For bashing purposes I think your on point, I'm jumping up to 1mil in the center of my 5ive t next round, still throwing bit too much power to the front wheels with the 500k fluid in the center.

Thanks Sean
I just reread your post so, I guess what you are saying is the stockers are okay if properly maintained, right?
 
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I run 20 million weight on my losi 5ive 2.0 rear and I used 125k in the front with a locker in the center to evenly distribute 50/50 to the front and rear and the vekta has the stock 500k and i opted for 20 million in the rear..The diff will heat up when the spider gears inside are spinning against each other but only really in turning situations.. if there's thicker fluid the diff will less likely spin against itself and spin as a whole and create less heat. Keep the viscosity lower in the front for steering purposes
 
As you can afford it upgrade your diffs. If that pin comes it it causes alot of havoc and money for parts. You should be fine with a 34 for a bit but at minimum I'd run the MOD inserts in the rear.

Most plastic parts are ok for a few tanks, but with upgraded engines heat causes the to wear at a fast rate unless you help them out a bit.
 
Had to pull my rear case out due to stripped bolts. Not sure what weight grease masterleon
Used BUT its thick!!! Can hardly turn the drive by hand. New case ordered anything i should do while apart?
 

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