Servos
- Thread starter a6lns
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Nah you should be fine 840 has a fast response than 845 but you'll probably never notice
a6lns
Well-Known Member
Yeah I run them in my losi for years now
John Parks
Print my own
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As doug said, they are a great servo for the money. Warranty is also unbeatable
Exact set up I run in my losi
BCRstudio
Well-Known Member
It is a decent servo, but for the performance per dollar, I would go with the Pro Modeller servos. (easy).
And I am not even talking about their cheaper one (that matches, and or betters the 845. But 1 step up, and nearly doubles speed and power.
Granted, (me) I tend to go all out, and will just another one (as I have about a half dozen PM servos. (and 3 dozen other brands, most if not all are name brands that I keep in a box, in case a PM goes down). So far has never happened. Will say, I have only been using them for about 3 or 4 years. (perhaps longer, I would need to check my emails, to confirm my first purchases.)
Anyhow, nothing wrong with what you have, however here is a quick link to one that can better it (and better price (or close match)
https://www.promodeler.com/DS1155BLHV
But if you want ALL out - https://www.promodeler.com/DS2685BLHV
I have a few of the all metal ones, as well a couple of the ones with plastic tops. (granted, even they have pressed in bearings, compared to other companies (non-existent bearings)
If you interested, the owner of the company (I know from exp.) will reply to you personally, if you have any (and all) questions.
I know this, as we got off topic a few times, years ago, and got into astrophysics (and astronomy) conversations.
Anyhow, not that this helped, but (no,) nothing wrong with running the same, for both. (me, I like a tad more speed for the throttle, but a must have power and speed, (when possible) for the steering)
(edit:: fixed typo)
And I am not even talking about their cheaper one (that matches, and or betters the 845. But 1 step up, and nearly doubles speed and power.
Granted, (me) I tend to go all out, and will just another one (as I have about a half dozen PM servos. (and 3 dozen other brands, most if not all are name brands that I keep in a box, in case a PM goes down). So far has never happened. Will say, I have only been using them for about 3 or 4 years. (perhaps longer, I would need to check my emails, to confirm my first purchases.)
Anyhow, nothing wrong with what you have, however here is a quick link to one that can better it (and better price (or close match)
https://www.promodeler.com/DS1155BLHV
But if you want ALL out - https://www.promodeler.com/DS2685BLHV
I have a few of the all metal ones, as well a couple of the ones with plastic tops. (granted, even they have pressed in bearings, compared to other companies (non-existent bearings)
If you interested, the owner of the company (I know from exp.) will reply to you personally, if you have any (and all) questions.
I know this, as we got off topic a few times, years ago, and got into astrophysics (and astronomy) conversations.
Anyhow, not that this helped, but (no,) nothing wrong with running the same, for both. (me, I like a tad more speed for the throttle, but a must have power and speed, (when possible) for the steering)
(edit:: fixed typo)
I know I’m late but if ur trying to ask if the servo has too much power for the throttle and you are wasting the servo the answer is no. U need to remember that the servo also needs to stop the 30lb rig going speeds upwards of 40mph and that needs lots of power.
BCRstudio
Well-Known Member
(actually), it requires less force for "a rig" to stop. As the drag pulls, the brakes will come together (naturally). Hence requiring less force.
To test this, all you need to do, is try using the carb/brake setup, just using your hand to test the force.
I am NOT saying, that you need less (overall power, in one direction). Just less, than you may think. (dynamic force, Newtons" law to some effect)
This does assume, that the brakes are working as normal (per friction)
EDIT:: i.e. brake pads are not worn down to metal, (or near it), as well have broken in correctly.
Now metal to metal brake force, would be entirely different (certainly pertaining to heat, friction, generated).
All this, being off topic.
But, again (as above stated), nothing wrong with the 845, for both steering & carb/brake.
To test this, all you need to do, is try using the carb/brake setup, just using your hand to test the force.
I am NOT saying, that you need less (overall power, in one direction). Just less, than you may think. (dynamic force, Newtons" law to some effect)
This does assume, that the brakes are working as normal (per friction)
EDIT:: i.e. brake pads are not worn down to metal, (or near it), as well have broken in correctly.
Now metal to metal brake force, would be entirely different (certainly pertaining to heat, friction, generated).
All this, being off topic.
But, again (as above stated), nothing wrong with the 845, for both steering & carb/brake.
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