spur gear

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drdru

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hi all ive killed my plastic spur gear playing at the beach (bad for my buggy lots and lots of fun!!) and was going to replace with an ally one but in the listings they say to run with a plastic gear. can i run all ally gears or is it best to run one plastic.
Ps due to playing at the beach im planing a strip down wots the best oils to use in shocks / diff/ ball races ect.

cheers all in advance !:w00t:
 
drdru said:
hi all ive killed my plastic spur gear playing at the beach (bad for my buggy lots and lots of fun!!) and was going to replace with an ally one but in the listings they say to run with a plastic gear. can i run all ally gears or is it best to run one plastic.
Ps due to playing at the beach im planing a strip down wots the best oils to use in shocks / diff/ ball races ect.

cheers all in advance !:w00t:
Click to expand...

hello first of all

from what I understand (bit new here) you run a plastic spur as the cheap weak point.
if you upgrade parts the next weakest in line will fail so upgrade all and leave the plastic bit in as your easy and cheap to replace.
Same principal as my smaller nitros and also bigger 1/1 race cars..

WEZ

feel free to slap me and give the real answer if im totally wrong guys!! :w00t:
 
I run a plastic spur with no problems at all even after a beach run :w00t: The gear is probably being damaged from contact with the back left upper arm. The std plastic 1's flex badly (yes that much believe it or not!) and come into contact with the gears eventually stripping the teeth. 2 solutions to this - you can either change out to ally upper arms to stop the flex all together or fit the lexan gear cover which prevents the contact with the gears. I have the gear cover and it works perfect :D There was a mod on here somewhere that involved adding a brace to stop the flexing which worked well also.
 
I use 2000wt FG shock oil in the std red Fg shocks. Just repacked the diff with LM grease at £5ish for a 500g tub from Halfords. Make sure you do the silicone mod to seal the diff then build up a 'wall' of silicone at the front and back of the diff to prevent stones being dragged in and damaging the diff casing.

Some pics here and a link by BtB in post 56........
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=12586&page=3
 
See I knew somebody would be along with a reason as to why you may have damaged it...lol

And a fair few points of interest too.

WEZ
 
wezg said:
See I knew somebody would be along with a reason as to why you may have damaged it...lol

And a fair few points of interest too.

WEZ
Click to expand...

What you said was right too depending on your opinion. Its only a 2 min job to change the spur!! Some run all steel gears with no probs tho so just what suits the individual. Mine hasnt broke yet so don't see the point in upgrading if it works fine as it is.
 
I have to agree with that.....IF IT AINT BROKE don't FIX
all my mods in the past (1/8th qnd 1/10th )have been due to frequent breakages or to supply more tuning options never just the bling...

although my new baja has a fair bit of alloy on it...but I wont complain and remove it...I will polish it up and enjoy...lol

WEZ
 
wezg said:
I have to agree with that.....IF IT AINT BROKE don't FIX
all my mods in the past (1/8th qnd 1/10th )have been due to frequent breakages or to supply more tuning options never just the bling...

although my new baja has a fair bit of alloy on it...but I wont complain and remove it...I will polish it up and enjoy...lol

WEZ
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with bling :cool2: I just choose to keep mine std cos I cant justify the cost of the ally parts (bought the kids a Lunchbox each instead :D). The FG plastics are top notch anyway and also the keep the weight down!!
 
+1 to the above adice, rear uppers arms do flex, i run a steel spur on both my FG's, one of them's been going for over sevent tanks and looks new. i also run standard arms all around on one (the one thats done 70+ tanks) and its been getting big air!

the only negative is the noise, steel spur makes allot of noise but belltproof if installed correctly and no need to upgrade anything else.
 
nice one

cheers guys i cn get 2 plastic ones for the same money as 1 ally so think ill keep the weak link instead just to be safe as was getting some wicked air off the rocks at the beach and think thats wot finaly killed it. i now know why it has a full set of ally gears except for the spur the guy i bought it from obviously new wot he was doing cheers again guys
No work today so gona spend the day cleaning buggy in the sun.
 
Last edited:
ive got the cover and think its more trouble than its worse, for exactly the point stated above.

i still think a steel spur is the cheapest long term answer.
 
A arms will not give you any less twisting of the rear end. The cause is the lower A arm.

Check this thread out: https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=285&highlight=arms

The A arm rod will twist and hit your gear no matter what unless you make the changes found in the above thread link.

If you get the alloy spur, the alloy shaft from the A arm will hit the gear.
It will not effect the alloy gear or the arm.

Do you have an alloy spur carrier? The piece that holds the plastic spur with the rubber rings in it. Get one if you don't. The plastic one will melt on the metal shaft eventually.

I have run with alloy gears on all my FG's for years with no issues.
The diff cups are the weakest point in your (FG) drive train.
Ask any one that runs alloy or plastic gears if they have ever taken out a drive cup.
Yup, it happens to all of us plastic or metal.:mad:

IMO.;)
The cover is nothing but trouble. It holds crap in there and lets it bounce around more then if it were not there. I have two of them. one is new. They are the DTX ones for $5.00 clone of the FG ones.. Worthless IMO.:D
 
hello

Bigger the Better said:
A arms will not give you any less twisting of the rear end. The cause is the lower A arm.

Check this thread out: https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=285&highlight=arms

The A arm rod will twist and hit your gear no matter what unless you make the changes found in the above thread link.

If you get the alloy spur, the alloy shaft from the A arm will hit the gear.
It will not effect the alloy gear or the arm.

Do you have an alloy spur carrier? The piece that holds the plastic spur with the rubber rings in it. Get one if you don't. The plastic one will melt on the metal shaft eventually.

I have run with alloy gears on all my FG's for years with no issues.
The diff cups are the weakest point in your (FG) drive train.
Ask any one that runs alloy or plastic gears if they have ever taken out a drive cup.
Yup, it happens to all of us plastic or metal.:mad:

IMO.;)
The cover is nothing but trouble. It holds crap in there and lets it bounce around more then if it were not there. I have two of them. one is new. They are the DTX ones for $5.00 clone of the FG ones.. Worthless IMO.:D
Click to expand...





yes i have all ally parts everything is ally except for the spur gear hence my thought of changing it but a suspicion that i needed to leave a weak link. think im gona stick to plastic for now and keep a spare in stock.
 
the main problem you will prob have running all plastic is heat.

My pinion gear melted (not the teeth but the inner) as heat traveled down the shaft from the engine & ended up rounding my pinion causing it to slip.

After that i went with a steel pinion, alloy spur carrier & plastic spur gear, done me well for a while but in the end i stripped teeth on my spur, so now i use all steel with a gear cover, not 1 prob so far although i have gone through a couple of bearings which is prob down to wear & tare.
 
pis**ed off

ordered new spur took ages to arrive and its a 48 instead of the 46 i ordered not happy another weekend i cant go play arrrrhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!:mad:
 
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