tizdaz
Well-Known Member
Hi guys
Some of you prob know about an issue i had with my Taylor V2 Reed, and to be fair Mike @ Taylor has sorted it out quickly so fair play to him.
However, when i stripped down my Dibby i decided to give a once over, and to my horror the issue i had a few months back which some of you might remember, Thread here: https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/dbxl-2-0-taylor-35-reed-v2-issue.29956/# is happening again.
On the original issue, i was back & forth via emails with Mike from Taylor, in the end we came to an agreement that we met half way in terms of the cost for the damaged parts, but in reality i ended up much more out of pocket, but i was just glad to get it sorted..or so i thought,
At the time he still didnt agree with me what caused the issue, Originally i said that the Cup from the center shaft bracket was touching the Engine Flywheel Case as it was too close, in turn this caused the cup to heat up due to the friction which then made the studlock i used on the pin to break so then the pin came out & destroyed parts of the engine casing/drive train *as you will see in the link above to that thread).
So at the time he suggested to use some silicon tubing to cover the pin to stop it working loose, i explained i cant, because there is no gap as it is between the cup/casing! so he then mentioned changing the gearing to allow the engine to move slightly away giving more clearance gap, i wasnt too keen on this idea as at present my dibby was running great with the current gearing & having to make moda like this just to get it to work correctly is not what i was expecting as prior to buying the engine i did ask him will this drop straight in without issues, which he said it would (i also had to modify the engine mount which was not mentioned!!), but anyway i changed gearing, but still not enough room to fit silicon tubing on the cup. Anyway few months on (I've used my dibby literally around 3 times as been buzy with other things) ive now noticed the SAME issue happening again, see pics. This time pics are more clear as you can clearly see where its been rubbing again & where the pin has started to catch the casing!! The pin has not moved from the shaft as i checked, but it has been rubbing the casing so it would only be a matter of time until a repeat of what happened before in terms of damage. Luckily I've caught the issue early before the pin come loose wrecking the parts all over again!!
A simple fix (and i mentioned this to mike last time) is to shave away the casing in that small area where the cup is to allow clearance!.. that's it!) and this is what I've just done using a Dremel, But it could & should be done properly during manufacturing of the casing for the dbxl 2.0 allowing decent clearance. I sent Mike an email yesterday but no reply as yet, so will see what he says. I just wish that he would take on board what i said last time, a simple mod of the casing for DBXL 2.0 owners using the V2 reed would eliminate this issue!!
In this pic you can see where the cup has been rubbing the casing by the chrome ring..
This pic you can see where the pin has been hitting the case causing damage to the pin and cup
This pic is where the pin/cup has made contact with casing
These pics show how close the cup is to the casing..
And these last pics show the simple fix where i have dremeled away to allow more clearance.. Which I should not have to do! if i was told before i purchased engine about this then fair enough, but like i say, i was told the engine would just drop right in.. which it clearly did not as seen here & i also had to modify the engine mount which i told mike about and he acknowledged that the mount was an issue and he was waiting for a new batch of mounts to arrive specifically for the DBXL 2.0/Reed v2.
Some of you prob know about an issue i had with my Taylor V2 Reed, and to be fair Mike @ Taylor has sorted it out quickly so fair play to him.
However, when i stripped down my Dibby i decided to give a once over, and to my horror the issue i had a few months back which some of you might remember, Thread here: https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/dbxl-2-0-taylor-35-reed-v2-issue.29956/# is happening again.
On the original issue, i was back & forth via emails with Mike from Taylor, in the end we came to an agreement that we met half way in terms of the cost for the damaged parts, but in reality i ended up much more out of pocket, but i was just glad to get it sorted..or so i thought,
At the time he still didnt agree with me what caused the issue, Originally i said that the Cup from the center shaft bracket was touching the Engine Flywheel Case as it was too close, in turn this caused the cup to heat up due to the friction which then made the studlock i used on the pin to break so then the pin came out & destroyed parts of the engine casing/drive train *as you will see in the link above to that thread).
So at the time he suggested to use some silicon tubing to cover the pin to stop it working loose, i explained i cant, because there is no gap as it is between the cup/casing! so he then mentioned changing the gearing to allow the engine to move slightly away giving more clearance gap, i wasnt too keen on this idea as at present my dibby was running great with the current gearing & having to make moda like this just to get it to work correctly is not what i was expecting as prior to buying the engine i did ask him will this drop straight in without issues, which he said it would (i also had to modify the engine mount which was not mentioned!!), but anyway i changed gearing, but still not enough room to fit silicon tubing on the cup. Anyway few months on (I've used my dibby literally around 3 times as been buzy with other things) ive now noticed the SAME issue happening again, see pics. This time pics are more clear as you can clearly see where its been rubbing again & where the pin has started to catch the casing!! The pin has not moved from the shaft as i checked, but it has been rubbing the casing so it would only be a matter of time until a repeat of what happened before in terms of damage. Luckily I've caught the issue early before the pin come loose wrecking the parts all over again!!
A simple fix (and i mentioned this to mike last time) is to shave away the casing in that small area where the cup is to allow clearance!.. that's it!) and this is what I've just done using a Dremel, But it could & should be done properly during manufacturing of the casing for the dbxl 2.0 allowing decent clearance. I sent Mike an email yesterday but no reply as yet, so will see what he says. I just wish that he would take on board what i said last time, a simple mod of the casing for DBXL 2.0 owners using the V2 reed would eliminate this issue!!
In this pic you can see where the cup has been rubbing the casing by the chrome ring..
This pic you can see where the pin has been hitting the case causing damage to the pin and cup
This pic is where the pin/cup has made contact with casing
These pics show how close the cup is to the casing..
And these last pics show the simple fix where i have dremeled away to allow more clearance.. Which I should not have to do! if i was told before i purchased engine about this then fair enough, but like i say, i was told the engine would just drop right in.. which it clearly did not as seen here & i also had to modify the engine mount which i told mike about and he acknowledged that the mount was an issue and he was waiting for a new batch of mounts to arrive specifically for the DBXL 2.0/Reed v2.
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...only done a small test so far as ive only just completed fitting new head/piston but seems ok so far!
