Taylor 35 V2 Reed LOSI DBXL 2.0 Install

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ok so time for an update regarding this engine!

(PS, I also posted this in response to question on another thread, but posting here also as it's relevant to this thread!)

Sooo... now that the "oooh" factor has worn off, do I still think that the Taylor 35 V2 Reed is worth the extra £££ compared to the ESP Race ported 34?

Short answer.... Nope! :(

Long answer... My Dibby is very heavy (prob twice as heavy as a stock dibby) so any small bore was always going to struggle to deliver the power I wanted for my heavy build. But I really did think the Taylor V2 reed would be the one, especially after speaking to mike from Taylor RC & looking at reviews of this engine etc, but as it turns out in practice, for my self, it's a disappointment tbh.

Don't get me wrong though, the Engine is a nice and very well built engine, it does have more power than the ESP Race ported, but £300 worth more? .... nope :( Maybe in a stock dibby with only a few mods which weighs a lot less than mine, the power difference would be more noticeable, but not with my build unfortunately.

So I'm now left with a few options...

Revert my DBXL 2.0 back to stock & just use "Essential" hop-ups.. For me a big part of the hobby is customization & this means ...lots of alloy etc! some of you prob know about the headaches and drama with the FID parts I've bought and attempted to fit etc! :) if I was racing then obv I would keep the build light as possible, but I'm a builder/basher! I've spent lots of time/money/effort getting my dibby where it is today which I'm happy with! (except for the performance!!). So removing all the work I've done is a no-go.

My old FG was 100% alloy 2WD monster and was also on the heavy side, this had a stock zen G290 with a tuned pipe & it was an absolute weapon, power was excellent, speed was great, could not fault it, which is why I'm kind of disappointed with this dibby as at present its no where near the performance of that with my old FG which was a VERY old design, but to me still one of the best designs, keep it simple as they say!!! Even my recently rebuilt FG Stadium which has a stock Zen G290 & tuned pipe is an absolute animal, I took this out along with my dibby over the weekend, and I had WAY more fun with my FG, than with my dibby. Like I say, I much prefer 2WD over 4WD which leads me to my 2nd option... convert my dibby to 2WD, for me this is really a no brainer and why I didn't think of this already I don't know!?, as I've always preferred 2WD for RC! ...going this route will hopefully give the drive/handling I prefer (2WD) but at same time remove the issue of power as the motor will only be delivering power to 2 wheels instead of 4! so should give much more torque/power off the line ..I've got a diff locker arriving tommoz, my dibby is partly stripped awaiting! So hopefully this will solve the 2 issues for me :)

My other option.. Bigbore. I looked into this originally as I was going to get a Taylor 46GT which I'm pretty sure would have easily give me the power I wanted!, but a bigbore will not fit the DBXL/2.0 platform. So this was a no go.

So, there it is, the Taylor 35 V2 Reed, is a nice engine providing its fit in a chassis for which it is suitable for, a heavily modified DBXL 2.0 isn't the ideal build for it!, Considering tis price tag (around £800), I think it's one of (if not THE) most expensive small bore available today? so I was expecting a little more power as like I say, it doesn't really seem a huge improvement over the ESP race ported 34cc!

Would I have bought this engine to throw in a 2WD chassis, Nope.. as I know the stock Zen G290 with a tuned pipe was more than enough power in my old Full Alloy FG MB pro, but I would have bought the ESP as the price on that engine is reasonable & does perform very well (even though I blew mine up somehow!! lol). but I did rebuild it & it is a damn good engine...which is now also sold!

;)
 
I'm just curious, my full billet 5ive-t with a Taylor 71 weighs 42lbs. Your telling me your dbxl with all bling weighs double the stock weight, so that would make it weigh about 80 US lbs which would be as heavy as a raminator?
 
tizdaz said:
ok so time for an update regarding this engine!

(PS, I also posted this in response to question on another thread, but posting here also as it's relevant to this thread!)

Sooo... now that the "oooh" factor has worn off, do I still think that the Taylor 35 V2 Reed is worth the extra £££ compared to the ESP Race ported 34?

Short answer.... Nope! :(

Long answer... My Dibby is very heavy (prob twice as heavy as a stock dibby) so any small bore was always going to struggle to deliver the power I wanted for my heavy build. But I really did think the Taylor V2 reed would be the one, especially after speaking to mike from Taylor RC & looking at reviews of this engine etc, but as it turns out in practice, for my self, it's a disappointment tbh.

Don't get me wrong though, the Engine is a nice and very well built engine, it does have more power than the ESP Race ported, but £300 worth more? .... nope :( Maybe in a stock dibby with only a few mods which weighs a lot less than mine, the power difference would be more noticeable, but not with my build unfortunately.

So I'm now left with a few options...

Revert my DBXL 2.0 back to stock & just use "Essential" hop-ups.. For me a big part of the hobby is customization & this means ...lots of alloy etc! some of you prob know about the headaches and drama with the FID parts I've bought and attempted to fit etc! :) if I was racing then obv I would keep the build light as possible, but I'm a builder/basher! I've spent lots of time/money/effort getting my dibby where it is today which I'm happy with! (except for the performance!!). So removing all the work I've done is a no-go.

My old FG was 100% alloy 2WD monster and was also on the heavy side, this had a stock zen G290 with a tuned pipe & it was an absolute weapon, power was excellent, speed was great, could not fault it, which is why I'm kind of disappointed with this dibby as at present its no where near the performance of that with my old FG which was a VERY old design, but to me still one of the best designs, keep it simple as they say!!! Even my recently rebuilt FG Stadium which has a stock Zen G290 & tuned pipe is an absolute animal, I took this out along with my dibby over the weekend, and I had WAY more fun with my FG, than with my dibby. Like I say, I much prefer 2WD over 4WD which leads me to my 2nd option... convert my dibby to 2WD, for me this is really a no brainer and why I didn't think of this already I don't know!?, as I've always preferred 2WD for RC! ...going this route will hopefully give the drive/handling I prefer (2WD) but at same time remove the issue of power as the motor will only be delivering power to 2 wheels instead of 4! so should give much more torque/power off the line ..I've got a diff locker arriving tommoz, my dibby is partly stripped awaiting! So hopefully this will solve the 2 issues for me :)

My other option.. Bigbore. I looked into this originally as I was going to get a Taylor 46GT which I'm pretty sure would have easily give me the power I wanted!, but a bigbore will not fit the DBXL/2.0 platform. So this was a no go.

So, there it is, the Taylor 35 V2 Reed, is a nice engine providing its fit in a chassis for which it is suitable for, a heavily modified DBXL 2.0 isn't the ideal build for it!, Considering tis price tag (around £800), I think it's one of (if not THE) most expensive small bore available today? so I was expecting a little more power as like I say, it doesn't really seem a huge improvement over the ESP race ported 34cc!

Would I have bought this engine to throw in a 2WD chassis, Nope.. as I know the stock Zen G290 with a tuned pipe was more than enough power in my old Full Alloy FG MB pro, but I would have bought the ESP as the price on that engine is reasonable & does perform very well (even though I blew mine up somehow!! lol). but I did rebuild it & it is a damn good engine...which is now also sold!

;)
Click to expand...
I understand the build / upgrading being a large part of the hobby for many. I like upgrades as well but I try to stick to adding alloy parts only where stock plastics are a known weak point, or I've experienced failures.

Take my TLR 5ive B buggy for instance... chassis braces I replaced while assembling the kit just because of previous experience with other cars. I also added aluminum to tie all the steering together. Whatever that top plate is called. Lol. So far the only others are the steering servo mount and a brace for the throttle / brake servo. These are to stop flex in the system. I need to finish installing that steering servo mount in fact. Currently, I see no need for more alloy parts, despite having my eye on some just in case. I have all metal steering links and upper links but not on the car. So far I've only damage one plastic rod end and I have a lot of spare Losi ends, so it might be a long time before they get installed.

All this to say, I try to keep to the mods that improve durability of the car and its performance. Thats how my FG monster beetle became all aluminum because I broke everything. Lol. It was stout after that and still ripped pretty good with a stock 26cc Zenoah and X-can muffler running camp fuel. I miss that car.
 
tizdaz said:
ok so time for an update regarding this engine!

(PS, I also posted this in response to question on another thread, but posting here also as it's relevant to this thread!)

Sooo... now that the "oooh" factor has worn off, do I still think that the Taylor 35 V2 Reed is worth the extra £££ compared to the ESP Race ported 34?

Short answer.... Nope! :(

Long answer... My Dibby is very heavy (prob twice as heavy as a stock dibby) so any small bore was always going to struggle to deliver the power I wanted for my heavy build. But I really did think the Taylor V2 reed would be the one, especially after speaking to mike from Taylor RC & looking at reviews of this engine etc, but as it turns out in practice, for my self, it's a disappointment tbh.

Don't get me wrong though, the Engine is a nice and very well built engine, it does have more power than the ESP Race ported, but £300 worth more? .... nope :( Maybe in a stock dibby with only a few mods which weighs a lot less than mine, the power difference would be more noticeable, but not with my build unfortunately.

So I'm now left with a few options...

Revert my DBXL 2.0 back to stock & just use "Essential" hop-ups.. For me a big part of the hobby is customization & this means ...lots of alloy etc! some of you prob know about the headaches and drama with the FID parts I've bought and attempted to fit etc! :) if I was racing then obv I would keep the build light as possible, but I'm a builder/basher! I've spent lots of time/money/effort getting my dibby where it is today which I'm happy with! (except for the performance!!). So removing all the work I've done is a no-go.

My old FG was 100% alloy 2WD monster and was also on the heavy side, this had a stock zen G290 with a tuned pipe & it was an absolute weapon, power was excellent, speed was great, could not fault it, which is why I'm kind of disappointed with this dibby as at present its no where near the performance of that with my old FG which was a VERY old design, but to me still one of the best designs, keep it simple as they say!!! Even my recently rebuilt FG Stadium which has a stock Zen G290 & tuned pipe is an absolute animal, I took this out along with my dibby over the weekend, and I had WAY more fun with my FG, than with my dibby. Like I say, I much prefer 2WD over 4WD which leads me to my 2nd option... convert my dibby to 2WD, for me this is really a no brainer and why I didn't think of this already I don't know!?, as I've always preferred 2WD for RC! ...going this route will hopefully give the drive/handling I prefer (2WD) but at same time remove the issue of power as the motor will only be delivering power to 2 wheels instead of 4! so should give much more torque/power off the line ..I've got a diff locker arriving tommoz, my dibby is partly stripped awaiting! So hopefully this will solve the 2 issues for me :)

My other option.. Bigbore. I looked into this originally as I was going to get a Taylor 46GT which I'm pretty sure would have easily give me the power I wanted!, but a bigbore will not fit the DBXL/2.0 platform. So this was a no go.

So, there it is, the Taylor 35 V2 Reed, is a nice engine providing its fit in a chassis for which it is suitable for, a heavily modified DBXL 2.0 isn't the ideal build for it!, Considering tis price tag (around £800), I think it's one of (if not THE) most expensive small bore available today? so I was expecting a little more power as like I say, it doesn't really seem a huge improvement over the ESP race ported 34cc!

Would I have bought this engine to throw in a 2WD chassis, Nope.. as I know the stock Zen G290 with a tuned pipe was more than enough power in my old Full Alloy FG MB pro, but I would have bought the ESP as the price on that engine is reasonable & does perform very well (even though I blew mine up somehow!! lol). but I did rebuild it & it is a damn good engine...which is now also sold!

;)
Click to expand...
That's ashame Buddy, I had a good feeling that she would be a little ripper
Put some nos on her 🤣
That should get her up and bogging
 
MCD dood said:
That's ashame Buddy, I had a good feeling that she would be a little ripper
Put some nos on her 🤣
That should get her up and bogging
Click to expand...
I think I'd be completely satisfied with that engine or a 34cc case reed, full mod OBR engine because I'm pretty happy with a stock 32cc zen / VRC silenced pipe. In fact, I think, for me, they would be pretty undrivable until I get a lot more time on the car. I've never had a modified gasser engine yet. The G320 is an animal to me after only having stock, non piped 23 and 26cc Zenoahs in the off-road cars I've had.
 
jeepfreak1972 said:
I think I'd be completely satisfied with that engine or a 34cc case reed, full mod OBR engine because I'm pretty happy with a stock 32cc zen / VRC silenced pipe. In fact, I think, for me, they would be pretty undrivable until I get a lot more time on the car. I've never had a modified gasser engine yet. The G320 is an animal to me after only having stock, non piped 23 and 26cc Zenoahs in the off-road cars I've had.
Click to expand...
My full mod reed 30.5 pushes my all alloy MCD very well
It can be a handful to drive that's for sure 😄
Goes bloody hard, put it this way faster than a Baja 2wd with a Rovan 45, he's modified it to, match port it
 
MCD dood said:
My full mod reed 30.5 pushes my all alloy MCD very well
It can be a handful to drive that's for sure 😄
Goes bloody hard, put it this way faster than a Baja 2wd with a Rovan 45, he's modified it to, match port it
Click to expand...
Very cool. Do you have the ultimate buggy? I've been eyeing them for awhile now but I'm wanting a 2wd sand car next. Vesla. Plus, like most people, I don't have unlimited hobby funds. Especially when I'm spreading them over 3 expensive hobbies. RC, chainsaws and things that go bang. 😂
 
No I have the w5 short course truck, yes those other hobbies can be quite expensive
The government tool all our gun off us Australia
The bastard
 
MCD dood said:
No I have the w5 short course truck, yes those other hobbies can be quite expensive
The government tool all our gun off us Australia
The bastard
Click to expand...
I remember seeing the pictures of the mountains of guns being crushed. It was sad to see.

The MCD is a robust platform?
 
Rep732 said:
I'm just curious, my full billet 5ive-t with a Taylor 71 weighs 42lbs. Your telling me your dbxl with all bling weighs double the stock weight, so that would make it weigh about 80 US lbs which would be as heavy as a raminator?
Click to expand...
Don't know off the top of my head the exact weight, but I can say its definitely a LOT heavier than stock..if its not double, then its very near and that is one of the reasons why power is an issue as well as being 4WD, will soon find out anyhow as I'm converting to 2WD over next day or 2, so the weight will be cut a lot once I remove the parts not needed & only being 2WD :)

Most of my alloy is FID which is bulky and heavy, it actually surprised me how heavy the FID alloy is for the 2.0 when I was buying it, except for some vitavon (hubs/centre shaft support and rear wing mount) I know the diff/housing/brackets etc are very heavy & same goes for the FID arms & I'm also using mx43's which again are not the lightest rims/tires.

Like I say, my FG MB Pro was 100% alloy including disc brakes all around etc using a stock zen G290 with tuned FG pipe & using Giant Grips & this was MUCH lighter than what my dibby is at present.

tbf just before I purchased the reed I was in 2 minds weather just to give up on the dibby and sell it & go for a 2WD model, but that's when I began to think about converting my dibby to 2WD.

But as is, the performance low end is not what I expected from a 35cc Reed Engine & tuned pipe, as my FG makes my dibby look like a mickey mouse RC tbh! :p And my FG is using a stock engine with some alloy also ^^ ..mid > high end my dibby comes into its own, but bottom end...nah.

Anyway time will tell, but I'm pretty sure after I've completed the conversion, my dibby will be how I want it to be ^^
jeepfreak1972 said:
I understand the build / upgrading being a large part of the hobby for many. I like upgrades as well but I try to stick to adding alloy parts only where stock plastics are a known weak point, or I've experienced failures.

Take my TLR 5ive B buggy for instance... chassis braces I replaced while assembling the kit just because of previous experience with other cars. I also added aluminum to tie all the steering together. Whatever that top plate is called. Lol. So far the only others are the steering servo mount and a brace for the throttle / brake servo. These are to stop flex in the system. I need to finish installing that steering servo mount in fact. Currently, I see no need for more alloy parts, despite having my eye on some just in case. I have all metal steering links and upper links but not on the car. So far I've only damage one plastic rod end and I have a lot of spare Losi ends, so it might be a long time before they get installed.

All this to say, I try to keep to the mods that improve durability of the car and its performance. Thats how my FG monster beetle became all aluminum because I broke everything. Lol. It was stout after that and still ripped pretty good with a stock 26cc Zenoah and X-can muffler running camp fuel. I miss that car.
Click to expand...
yeh same ere buddy, i soooo regret selling my FG MB, it was basically all elcon including the 1 piece drive train & XL arms etc, infact the only thing that was left on it FG wise was the actual chassis, rest was elcon lol :(
 
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No idea whatelse it can be, drive train is all running smoothly, although what i did notice is when i fit the center diff locker and removed the front shafts, the drive train now seems much more loose and easy to turn, could it be that the 500k diff oil in centet diff was too thick for it? The front and rear have 100k which i know isnt am issue as atm the drive train without center diff os much more loose
 
tizdaz said:
No idea whatelse it can be, drive train is all running smoothly, although what i did notice is when i fit the center diff locker and removed the front shafts, the drive train now seems much more loose and easy to turn, could it be that the 500k diff oil in centet diff was too thick for it? The front and rear have 100k which i know isnt am issue as atm the drive train without center diff os much more loose
Click to expand...
The center diff fluid has no influence on your drive line friction unless one axle is trying to spin significantly faster than the other. Like the front tires turning into pizza cutters from wildly spinning. Its to eliminate that type of situation. Having 100,000 up front is far to heavy unless straight line drag racing is your thing. My 5ive B rails around turns with 1000 up front, locked center and 500,000 in the rear. I'm not a racer anymore but like to pretend I'm one when ripping around the property. Lol. If I were serious again, it wouldn't be set up like it is now.
 
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