Sergio1
Senior Member
I have to say that a pice of glass got my belt damage maybe it was just bad luck
The IRP Build Thread, The Fun Starts Now...
- Thread starter Gizmo1
- Start date
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DdsInMyFace
Active Member
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Oh wow, thats good to know because it does look badass all open and exposed 
Gizmo1
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #64
hey guys
on the open plate and belt or gears being exposed deal.
i have run 1/4 scale sprint cars, grand national, and trucks for over 10 years, and they run an open belt and semi open clutch drive system.
in that time i have run dirt, concrete, asphault surfaces and i have only managed to chunk a belt once. i cant tell you how many laps i turned over the years...
the one time i did lose a belt was on concrete and i have to admit it was on me for running a belt that was worn slap out ( it was the only one i had for the gear combo i was running at that race ).
i'm not saying its impossible to hurt the gears/belt without a cover but in my personal experience its a non-issue...
i also have run bajas with 2 speeds and no gear cover in some pretty nasty conditions over the last 5 years with no issues.
just my opinion and experience, and i hope this help ease the nerves a little.
on the open plate and belt or gears being exposed deal.
i have run 1/4 scale sprint cars, grand national, and trucks for over 10 years, and they run an open belt and semi open clutch drive system.
in that time i have run dirt, concrete, asphault surfaces and i have only managed to chunk a belt once. i cant tell you how many laps i turned over the years...
the one time i did lose a belt was on concrete and i have to admit it was on me for running a belt that was worn slap out ( it was the only one i had for the gear combo i was running at that race ).
i'm not saying its impossible to hurt the gears/belt without a cover but in my personal experience its a non-issue...
i also have run bajas with 2 speeds and no gear cover in some pretty nasty conditions over the last 5 years with no issues.
just my opinion and experience, and i hope this help ease the nerves a little.
Gizmo1
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #66
ok here are a few more pics of the rear camber links and how they mount up.
the 1st pic shows the outer ends and how they are mounted to the rear hub.
i made up 2 small billet spacers to fit on both sides of the rod end to fill the 12mm gap.
these spacers are a 2 step, inside fits the inner diameter of the rod end, slides in, the 2nd step is slightly larger O.D. and fill the gap, but still allow for rod end movement.
the 2nd pic shows the inner mounting .
i used a 3 step stand off billet spacer to get the same distance off the block as the stock rod end..
i am going to modify that distance by adding a couple of M4 flat washers or use a regular M4 nut to gain the extra distance i feel this is needed to get the proper camber link angle.
right now the stock and my new link are too far in at the inner mounting point. in other words the , link is Not on a straight plane angle.
i am leaning towards the M4 nut , this will lock the factory screw in place so you guys can just slide the new assy on with the standoff on to a solid mounting bolt and not have to fight the multiple washers....
you guys tell me how you want the end parts to be, they both have plus's and minus's....
in the 3rd pic you can see the plane angle i am referring to, the extra inner spacing will also give proper clearence to the camber link at the shock spring without having to cut an extra radius in the link thus saving a little money .
feel free to post up any opinions or suggestions, these are just the 1st prototype pieces.
the 1st pic shows the outer ends and how they are mounted to the rear hub.
i made up 2 small billet spacers to fit on both sides of the rod end to fill the 12mm gap.
these spacers are a 2 step, inside fits the inner diameter of the rod end, slides in, the 2nd step is slightly larger O.D. and fill the gap, but still allow for rod end movement.
the 2nd pic shows the inner mounting .
i used a 3 step stand off billet spacer to get the same distance off the block as the stock rod end..
i am going to modify that distance by adding a couple of M4 flat washers or use a regular M4 nut to gain the extra distance i feel this is needed to get the proper camber link angle.
right now the stock and my new link are too far in at the inner mounting point. in other words the , link is Not on a straight plane angle.
i am leaning towards the M4 nut , this will lock the factory screw in place so you guys can just slide the new assy on with the standoff on to a solid mounting bolt and not have to fight the multiple washers....
you guys tell me how you want the end parts to be, they both have plus's and minus's....
in the 3rd pic you can see the plane angle i am referring to, the extra inner spacing will also give proper clearence to the camber link at the shock spring without having to cut an extra radius in the link thus saving a little money .
feel free to post up any opinions or suggestions, these are just the 1st prototype pieces.
G
Guest
Guest
Very nice man! I want them! 
Gizmo1
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #69
Update for ya.
i ordered the DDM Rear Dominator V2 Pipe for the baja 5b to give it a try on the XB project.
I have to admit i was a tad leary on this one , but to my very pleasant surprise the damn thing bolted right up !!
Very minor modifications were needed, and none of them to the pipe.
I just flipped it upside down, there is plenty of room between the cage down tubes.
I did Not use the supplied X-port, there was no room for it
I also had a set of the Hollow Point RC exaust studs laying around, the short ones, so i figured what the hell.
The Minor mods i had to do are listed below:
remove the stock pipe..duh..lol
remove the stock pipe wire support thing.
removed Both rear body mount posts, more on this with the install section.
I had to trim off the right side of the rear body , just enough to clear the pipe.
Installation :
installed the Hollow Point RC Studs, do Not go too far with the left side stud...
installed the No Leak coupler on the pipe before the install, left the hose clamp off until the install was complete.
installed the header gasket and pipe, you will need to flex the left side of the wing to get it in there just a tad
installed the nuts and lock washers on the studs, Tip: get then both started and then run them down in equal incraments until snug, then tighten.
install the hose clamp on the No Leak coupler and tighten till you see Elvis ( you will need to loosen it all the way then slide it over the coupler and tighten ).
for the body re-install i put the left side stock mount back on, then i used velcro on the ride side of the body behind the gears and in front of the gears.
Done for now..
i may go in and make a small bracket off the shock tower to the stock DDM pipe mounting tab just as extra support, but i honestly don't think i will need it, just my anal side....
The pipe is pretty close to the right rear shock spring , but i does clear with no binding.
There is plenty of room for pipe tip clearance as you can see, even with the suspension fully compressed and contorted.
when i install the wheel adapters there will be even more room there.
Feel free to ask any questions, i'm going to give her a run tomorrow after it warms up outside and the loctite on the exaust studs sets up overnight.
i ordered the DDM Rear Dominator V2 Pipe for the baja 5b to give it a try on the XB project.
I have to admit i was a tad leary on this one , but to my very pleasant surprise the damn thing bolted right up !!
Very minor modifications were needed, and none of them to the pipe.
I just flipped it upside down, there is plenty of room between the cage down tubes.
I did Not use the supplied X-port, there was no room for it
I also had a set of the Hollow Point RC exaust studs laying around, the short ones, so i figured what the hell.
The Minor mods i had to do are listed below:
remove the stock pipe..duh..lol
remove the stock pipe wire support thing.
removed Both rear body mount posts, more on this with the install section.
I had to trim off the right side of the rear body , just enough to clear the pipe.
Installation :
installed the Hollow Point RC Studs, do Not go too far with the left side stud...
installed the No Leak coupler on the pipe before the install, left the hose clamp off until the install was complete.
installed the header gasket and pipe, you will need to flex the left side of the wing to get it in there just a tad
installed the nuts and lock washers on the studs, Tip: get then both started and then run them down in equal incraments until snug, then tighten.
install the hose clamp on the No Leak coupler and tighten till you see Elvis ( you will need to loosen it all the way then slide it over the coupler and tighten ).
for the body re-install i put the left side stock mount back on, then i used velcro on the ride side of the body behind the gears and in front of the gears.
Done for now..
i may go in and make a small bracket off the shock tower to the stock DDM pipe mounting tab just as extra support, but i honestly don't think i will need it, just my anal side....
The pipe is pretty close to the right rear shock spring , but i does clear with no binding.
There is plenty of room for pipe tip clearance as you can see, even with the suspension fully compressed and contorted.
when i install the wheel adapters there will be even more room there.
Feel free to ask any questions, i'm going to give her a run tomorrow after it warms up outside and the loctite on the exaust studs sets up overnight.
G
Guest
Guest
That was too easy.
Gizmo1
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #72
ok guys
i made up a quick little mouting bracket for the pipe and dang she is rock solid.
i had some steel brake line i picked up a while back at an auto parts store.
i just bent it, cut it to length, then smashed the ends in a vise.. drilled a couple of holes in the smashed ends.
i utilized the rubber isolator that comes with the pipe and bang it was done.
i may end up cutting a small bit of hte stinger off and install a 90 or 70 degree angle tip so it will exit omore towards the rear, we'll see if its needed after a few flips and tumbles.
as you can see the wing is higher than the bulk of the pipe so i'm not too concerned at this point with that area.
lmk what you guys think
i made up a quick little mouting bracket for the pipe and dang she is rock solid.
i had some steel brake line i picked up a while back at an auto parts store.
i just bent it, cut it to length, then smashed the ends in a vise.. drilled a couple of holes in the smashed ends.
i utilized the rubber isolator that comes with the pipe and bang it was done.
i may end up cutting a small bit of hte stinger off and install a 90 or 70 degree angle tip so it will exit omore towards the rear, we'll see if its needed after a few flips and tumbles.
as you can see the wing is higher than the bulk of the pipe so i'm not too concerned at this point with that area.
lmk what you guys think
KrashKrieg
Well-Known Member
Looks great, should work well...
G
Guest
Guest
That'll work! 
jtphillips23
Well-Known Member
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Looks sweet!
Wicked
Well-Known Member
Dood your buggy is looking awesome.
Gizmo1
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #78
Been busy as hell, but i did get the new " shoes " mounted up.
Ramtech Hub Adapters
HPI Star Wheels
Silverback Lipped outer beadlocks
Khaos Rears with Hostile Zero growth foams
Dirt Buster Fronts with Proline foams
Stainless beadlock screws all around
Dyed the outer and inner beadlocks black
She's beginning to look pretty pissed off at this point !!
Thinking about ordering this, make this one the " 5-O " , when our little group of guys gets out of line i'll fire her up and chase down the crazy bastards !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RC-1-10-Scale-Police-Light-Bar-kit-for-Traxxas-HPI-Losi-or-any-1-10-RC-Body-/280883746534?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item4165f9d6e6
Ramtech Hub Adapters
HPI Star Wheels
Silverback Lipped outer beadlocks
Khaos Rears with Hostile Zero growth foams
Dirt Buster Fronts with Proline foams
Stainless beadlock screws all around
Dyed the outer and inner beadlocks black
She's beginning to look pretty pissed off at this point !!
Thinking about ordering this, make this one the " 5-O " , when our little group of guys gets out of line i'll fire her up and chase down the crazy bastards !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RC-1-10-Scale-Police-Light-Bar-kit-for-Traxxas-HPI-Losi-or-any-1-10-RC-Body-/280883746534?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item4165f9d6e6
G
Guest
Guest
Look'n good!
BillH
Junior Member
Nice indeed.