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Sweet! That is pretty much how they are set up. When I compress the shock, they might rebound 1/8 to 1/4 inch. One of them had a little more, so I unscrewed the cap and let it bleed some.No rebound is the goal. If they extend there is air and you will bend the shafts. I fill mine to top with shafts pulled completely out. Put cap on and compressed with cap on just barely snug, crake cap open and any excess or air comes out. Repeat if necessary and if shock continues to extend you have air or bad seal. A small amount of extension, half inch or less is OK, anything more keep bleeding. No pumping etc is needed. Probably have oil about half inch from top of shock when done,not to top. Again goal is no extension after completion but just a tad is ok.
I just ordered the brass bushings for the pinion shaft. I am just going to stake the bolts to the housings because they have held up fine on stock power. After reading through yours and other's threads, I have decided I am 100% leaving the stock motor in and enjoy it for what it is. If I want some speed later, I'll pick up a 5t or a Kraken Trophy Truck.Nows the time to put the bushings on the pinion shafts and either clearance the differentals for nylock nut and longer screws or at a minimum pull the diff screws, clean ,relocked tite and use a pointed punch to stake the bolts to the housings. The ring gear loosening on the differential has been the biggest issue on these trucks. We all get the bushings on Amazon. I know l took a photo and show the diff mod, bushings part number in the second truck thread. I'm going to take a look It's in the Grave Digger Taylor 50 update thread. Shadowman also contributed to the thread, he's been a great inspiration and friend throughout my experiences!!!!
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