top or bottom of steering arms ??

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buzzkill

buzzkill

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Ok so I got a new all metal steering setup with servo saver for the Rovan , and of course there are no directions for install LOL ! , anyhow does it matter if the end of the arm is on the BOTTOM of the arm or top ??
 

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if you mean the steering arms buzz, then there supposed to go to the bottom as in z zee zeds pics (y),
just realised my own mistake on the spovan 45 build, i put em on top,
will flip em now i realised :ROFLMAO:,
i think it alter steering if there on top instead of bottom as well, much more toe in and toe out as suspension compresses etc,
this pic is wrong way :ROFLMAO:
 
spents said:
if you mean the steering arms buzz, then there supposed to go to the bottom as in z zee zeds pics (y),
just realised my own mistake on the spovan 45 build, i put em on top,
will flip em now i realised :ROFLMAO:,
i think it alter steering if there on top instead of bottom as well, much more toe in and toe out as suspension compresses etc,
this pic is wrong way :ROFLMAO:
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Ya it might effect the bump steer also ?? Ill check it out and see what I come up with
Z.hb71 said:
Why would you do that? That's stupid, you are throwing away a bunch of suspension travel ?‍♂️
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they hit the frame rails ! I would have to cut slots in the frame for clearance
 
buzzkill said:
Ya it might effect the bump steer also ?? Ill check it out and see what I come up with
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check out my post above buzz, defo need to go to the bottom (y) ,
not sure why i made the on the top mistake myself, all my other baja based builds are on the bottom as they should be,
 
Z.hb71 said:
They still need to be in the bottom. I had to grind the chasiss for my tr ,but it was so worth it for the added steering
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Ya I gotta do some minor mods to it , MUCH tighter steering now , besides I need Xmas stuff for the GF to buy me so ?
 
I
dougstar said:
Why have you cut your chassis??‍♂️
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There's 3 settings on the tr wiper arm I bought (the non HD version). First hole it the stock configuration (don't have to cut anything) and the third hole gives you much better steering but you will have to grind the chassis a slight bit . I never tried hole 2 , it's probably somewhere in the middle. So I chose option 3 and it gave me like 10x better steering. I don't really give a feck about grinding a lil bit out of the chasiss tbh. Here's the TR rack Screenshot_20210101-152211.webp
 
Z.hb71 said:
Naw not really. Had to grind like 2mm just for it to clear. don't Matter to me
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I had to remove about 1/2" of matereial just to get good clearance , I also had the whole damn thing upside down so a ball end was hitting the servo !! came like that LOL ! , flipped it all after breaking a ball end now all good so far.

How do you tighten up a servo saver setup ? its a little loose at rest ??, this is the type of setup it is
 

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buzzkill said:
I had to remove about 1/2" of matereial just to get good clearance , I also had the whole damn thing upside down so a ball end was hitting the servo !! came like that LOL ! , flipped it all after breaking a ball end now all good so far.

How do you tighten up a servo saver setup ? its a little loose at rest ??, this is the type of setup it is
Click to expand...
There's a screw on top. And my system is a stock configuration (bellcrank) just aluminum with a better saver design., that's some wierd ass thing you havw, no idea about that and what mods it needs to fit
 
That's the Rovan symmetrical steering rack. It's what FG uses. Much better design in my opinion. You can't adjust those that I know of. They are spring loaded so only adjustment is changing the spring which I don't think they offer.

If you want the ability to adjust tension maybe this could fit? I run this is my Marder and F1, they sell different springs for it.

https://www.davesmotors.com/fg-04493-aluminium-servo-saver-04
 
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