TT arms and axles on XT/XB/XBE

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DemonRC1

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Well last night I prepared my XBE for it's first run. Before I ever even plugged the batteries in I figures I was going to do some mods. First, I needed to figure out if I wanted to stick with FG hubs and run the stock tires and then later switch to better FG style tires like the buggy tires from Nutech. I figured I'd just run my bowties untill I pick those up. So, if you want to run Baja tires you have two choices:


1) Get some Ramtech adapters with 7075RC hubs. You HAVE to get the 7075 hubs if your running adapters. The 19mm hubs bearings will blow out in a few runs due to the extended length hubs putting more pressure on the bearings.


2) Switch over to TT hubs and axles. This has been something I've been wanting to do for some time. I know a few have done this already but there are a few key points not mentioned. The only reason I haven't done it is that I didn't want to lose my swaybars. Well, it turns out you can still use the sway bars. I think this is the route I want to take untill Obeast44 does a review on the Nutech wheels :) Here's a few key things I ran into when making the switch:

  1. Because the TT arm does not have the raised lower shock mount the end of the shock sits inside the TT arm. This allows you to use the XB rear shocks on the front for more suspension travel. I noticed that the XB front shocks are too short and do not allow the arms to droop. You do need the arm to lower by some degree to maintain traction when traveling over dips and/or washer boards. The arm has to have some downtravel so that the wheel can stay in contact with the ground. Killing downtravel by having short shocks is like having 1/2 suspension. The XB rears on the front are a big plus.
  2. You can keep the swaybars by drilling a hole for a screw. Refer to the picture for the location. One thing you have to do is pull the swaybar out of the joint maybe 3-4mm.
  3. I have to doublecheck the V3 arms once they come in for droop control screw locations but I'm pretty darn sure that the V3 arms have them in the same spot from looking at some pictures another member sent me.
  4. Since the TT/MT axles are identical to the Baja axles we can run all the aftermarket hubs offered to the HPI guys. I want to get my extended Vertigo axles I used to have on my TT. They were really nice. Eventually I'm gonna run the GRP's like below:
    W78_CROSS_4dc17b1658db2.webp
  5. The switch over is really easy. All you have to do is add a few washers for the rear hubs and they go right on just like the stock hubs. For the front, you just need to drill two holes in the back of the arm so mount the swaybars. There is one thing about the rear hubs that I need to mention. The XT/XB/XBE uses a 5mm hinge pin to hold the hub. The TT hub is made for a 6mm hinge pin. So there is a little play in there. I ended up drilling out my hubs and installed bushings to take up the play. It's not necessary since it's not that noticable.


All in all I'm happy with the switch. When I ran today I could just relax and have fun without worrying about whether or not my adapter setscrews are going to come lose, if I'm gonna kill my foams, etc, etc.
 
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Nice!! I was wondering if the suspension was swappable. Thanks for taking all the guess work out for the rest of us. If you run the fg style wheels do you drill them out or is their a adapter for the tiny holed wheels. I bought the aluminum ones from Obeast44. I drilled them out to make them fit. I'll get some pics up in the next few days.
 
Kool I was not aware that MT A-Arms and knuckles fit the XT ! Damn i should of kept mine !! But Im looking Buggies now so might go XB-E next time i buy
 
How close is it to stock width? The front mt/tt arms are shorter than the x series and the back mt/tt arms are longer then the x series. I do see in the pics you used the x series steering links. It must be close.
 
RCDAD said:
If you run the fg style wheels do you drill them out or is their a adapter for the tiny holed wheels. I bought the aluminum ones from Obeast44. I drilled them out to make them fit. I'll get some pics up in the next few days.
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FG wheels holes are 6mm. They have to be drilled out to allow the larger baja axle through them. The nice thing about the XT/XB/XBE is you can switch back and forth if you want without running adapters.

RCDAD said:
How close is it to stock width? The front mt/tt arms are shorter than the x series and the back mt/tt arms are longer then the x series. I do see in the pics you used the x series steering links. It must be close.
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It's very very close. The rear TT arm is only a few mm's longer than the XB arm. Now the TT front arm is much shorter because the carrier and knuckle push the axle way out. Basically it has a 18mm offset on it compared to the XB setup. The reason I know it's 18mm is that I checked the hole distance on the TT arm and it was 145mm. The XB arm came out to 127mm. All in all it's the same with +/- a mm or two. Visually you can't see the difference. Worst case just run some Darksoul or Veritigo extenders for the HPI. Not like that's a big deal when the car weighs 18.X pounds fully loaded.

Once I find a set of FG tires I really really like that hold up well I'm going back to the stock setup with 7075RC knuckles. Most glue on FG tires are much lighter than the beadlock Baja tires which will reduce alot of weight. I know I added a little weight from the thicker arms and big bulky knuckles. I couldn't really tell a difference from picking it up but I'm sure it's at least a pound if I put it on a scale. Not like that's an issue when the car only weighs 18.X pounds fully loaded.
 
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I tried to put some mt lower arms on my XB but the mt arm is not as wide as the xb arm so there is alot of play where it mounts at the diff.

Did you have this problem and if so what did you to fix it?

Thanks
 
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