Whoduh
Well-Known Member
Looks a little dark??
Turtle Racing Snapper Clutch
- Thread starter Whoduh
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Bajaripper912
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How do you like the turtle clutch? Never tried one are they worth it?
why have you opened it ? was it giving you trouble?
dose look a bit dark
dose look a bit dark
Whoduh
Well-Known Member
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- #4
compared to the stock clutch on the G320, I think the Snapper is better....Truck takes off like a rocket....but you will find mixed reviews on the internet...
No, no trouble.why have you opened it ? was it giving you trouble?
dose look a bit dark
That Snapper is on the 5ive T...I was taking the truck apart cause the truck needed some cleaning
....since i was stripping the truck down anyway...why not open it up to take a look. I noticed some blueing on the disks the last time I had it open.
I have the Turtle Racing clutch carrier on that truck.
For the disks on the clutch to be that dark....there had to be alot of heat generated inside the clutch housing. I'm going switch to an open carrier, maybe the stock 5ive B one and upgrade to the carbon fiber disks for the snapper...that SHOULD take care of the heat issues.
MIP clutch may be a better option...price wise they are almost the same...MIP is around $120...Snapper is is $80 for the clutch and an additional $40sumthing for the basket/clutch bell. Snapper will NOT work with a regular clutch bell.
I've never had an MIP clutch but they are supposed to be REALLY good.
Lauterbacher is supposed to be good clutch and the Winchester Tornado clutch works the same way as the TR clutch does....
I'll find some pro/con videos on the Snapper later.
Now that I'm sitting here looking at it and thinking about it...I may have used the wrong size center screw causing the clutch to not sit right..I dunno....
..I'm about to take the clutch off and check
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Grrr! hate it when
Iwant to upgrade clutch housing and bell want the vertigo hex drive and the open housing.
Keep us posted on y clutch
Happens!And now i cant find the screw i need to take this thing off....
Iwant to upgrade clutch housing and bell want the vertigo hex drive and the open housing.
Keep us posted on y clutch
Whoduh
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #7
It needs an M8 screw. 1 is included with the clutch kit and It was the only M8 I had.
Nothing on any of my rigs takes anything that size...but it's needed to take this clutch off.
I gave up looking for it. went out and bought 3 more.
I have a home depot nearby...$0.70 each...no biggie....
Now lets take this thing apart to see what the damage is..
M8 screw gets inserted where the center screw would normally go.
Tightening the M8 releases the clutch from the crank.
That top disk looks worse in the picture than it actually is.
With the clutch off, the crank looks ok.
The clutch itself looks ok...only the discoloration of that top disk.
From the outside, the 2 center disks, clutch weights, clutch basket, spring perch and springs look ok.
Inside of the clutch carrier is ok.
Inside of the clutch bell is ok.
Outside of the clutch bell shows some wear...looks like it was rubbing the inside of the carrier but its not all the way around the bell.
The rubbing happened right in line of where the venting holes are on the carrier...plus there was a very small amount of back and forth play with bell when i took it off..if i remember right that play was there when i put it on too...didnt think it would be a problem.
I just put a shim between the bell and carrier....it still spins freely but the back and forth play is now completely gone. I should have did that before...lesson learned.
Nothing on any of my rigs takes anything that size...but it's needed to take this clutch off.
I gave up looking for it. went out and bought 3 more.
I have a home depot nearby...$0.70 each...no biggie....
Now lets take this thing apart to see what the damage is..
M8 screw gets inserted where the center screw would normally go.
Tightening the M8 releases the clutch from the crank.
That top disk looks worse in the picture than it actually is.
With the clutch off, the crank looks ok.
The clutch itself looks ok...only the discoloration of that top disk.
From the outside, the 2 center disks, clutch weights, clutch basket, spring perch and springs look ok.
Inside of the clutch carrier is ok.
Inside of the clutch bell is ok.
Outside of the clutch bell shows some wear...looks like it was rubbing the inside of the carrier but its not all the way around the bell.
The rubbing happened right in line of where the venting holes are on the carrier...plus there was a very small amount of back and forth play with bell when i took it off..if i remember right that play was there when i put it on too...didnt think it would be a problem.
I just put a shim between the bell and carrier....it still spins freely but the back and forth play is now completely gone. I should have did that before...lesson learned.
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It looks like a real serious bit of kit
You rekon improves pull off dramatically.
It may have just got a bit hot from regular use go the vented bell carrie route. Put a tlr1
You rekon improves pull off dramatically.
It may have just got a bit hot from regular use
go the vented bell carrie route. Put a tlr1
Whoduh
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- #9
It looks like a real serious bit of kit
You rekon improves pull off dramatically.
It may have just got a bit hot from regular use
Compared to the stock clutch? Yeah, i saw a difference....BUT...i don't remember what size spring i had in that clutch....could have had something to do with it...as far as the heat...when i first noticed the blueing of the disk i contacted them about it..got a response from DDM....I was told something about gearing it to high or something about changing the engagement....i don't remember...also asked about it on this forum.....back in 2017..
https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/tr-snapper-clutch-is-blue-and-purple.21863/#post-204556
When i was pulling it apart this evening i did notice one of the second set of screws was backed out a little....the first set set of screws each had 14 turns on them. The second set each had 24 turns...except for 1...it was definitely loose...could have had something to do with the excessive heat..maybe even the rubbing of the clutch bell or maybe the the disks in the clutch are just old.. If you compare the picture from 2017 to the one from today....WTF....but its going on almost 2yrs with that clutch and all of its components. I aint complaining...it just means time for an upgrade.
It only takes 8 screws total and the clutch is apart.
Top 4 screws out and you can remove the first 2 disks..
Remove the last 4 screws and you expose/access the basket and weights.
The weights are kept in place on the basket with a dowel pin.
There is a small "heel" on one side of the weight. Heel should be on the outsde of the clutch.
Last part of the clutch are the springs and spring perch. Remove the basket in order to access them.
All of the pieces that com in the kit.
It also coms with the M8 screw.
I think the instructios say ther should be a packet of anti-sieze with the kit but mine did not come with any...i got some from the auto parts store.
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I don't think it looks terrible for 2 years of use(if your as hard on stuff as I am) I'd see if the have some sort of rebuild kit with the disks and chuck her back in. I agree with the vented clutch carrier should really help with heat dissipation
Whoduh
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- Thread starter
- #11
There is a hardware replacement kit with springs weights and more screws. I'm getting that along with the upgraded disks....gonna hold off on the clutch carrier for now. It's not as bad as I thought it was with the Turtle Racing HD carrier.
I have an issue with my 5ive B I want to get sorted out before I place the order for the 5ive T though.
I have an issue with my 5ive B I want to get sorted out before I place the order for the 5ive T though.
sweet so youll put it back run it and think about an upgrade?
Whats wrong with the 5b?
