Wet, black spark plug and engine dies

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I'll expand on what rep is saying. Make it idle. Doesn't matter how high it just needs to stay running. It need heat in the engine to tune it properly. Put it on a box and get the wheels off the ground if you have to. Once it's running, adjust the low mix screw like rep says. Low screw in till the rpm Increases a little. Note where that position is, now back the screw out till the idle starts to fall off. Note where that position is. Go in between those two positions. Now you can monkey with the idle screw. It should idle without the servos help. You will most likely have to readjust the low screw again. We're also not talking about big adjustments here. Little bit goes a long way. Top end tuning is subjective. I like to tune the top end a tad rich, not black smoke and limiting power rich, but take that lean ting out of it rich. It's actually a real pain on rc since it's pretty far away to hear the high tune when you at wot.
 
ALAS! I got it to run for 5 minutes. The previous two days, I got it to start, idle and accelerate on the work stand. It ran for five minutes. Then, it started to slow down/bog down at full throttle. Then it died. Then it would not restart. I brought it home and put it back on the stand. It would start...rev up high...then die. Did this a few times. It would be funny if it wasn't for the fact it was actually happening. Should I get a new carb? A new motor? A new six pack of beer? Really, I am open to any suggestions. Thanks to everyone how has helped thus far. I really (really) thought I had it running.
 
I'm curious, do you have an aluminum carb insulator? When this happens is there fuel still left in the primer bulb? If there is fuel is it bubbling in the bulb?...... can we get a few pics of the engine and carb please.
 
I'd like to say this. I state something because I personally ran into an issue so I state it so someone else doesn't have to make the same mistake, I say this as MY insulator from ddm DID cause the fuel to boil and vapor lock my carb. Just because it works for you doesn't mean everyone else will have the same luck.
 
Rep732 said:
I'd like to say this. I state something because I personally ran into an issue so I state it so someone else doesn't have to make the same mistake, I say this as MY insulator from ddm DID cause the fuel to boil and vapor lock my carb. Just because it works for you doesn't mean everyone else will have the same luck.
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I agree entirely.
Same with 990s - some love em and some hate em.
I've read of others having problems with them but I haven't.
I'm running them on G290s.
What motor were you using that boiled the fuel?
 
G320 on my first 5t 2.0. I went with obr's version of the billet insulator with a fat delrin block on the carb side. Problem with the one from ddm was the plastic insulation portion wouldn't keep the carb bolts tight and the whole intake would start to get loose. But I will also stand up and say I didn't know how critical that piece was and I replaced it with a gasket out of frustration and found out that the gas boils due to heat transfer.
 
Rep732 said:
I'm curious, do you have an aluminum carb insulator? When this happens is there fuel still left in the primer bulb? If there is fuel is it bubbling in the bulb?...... can we get a few pics of the engine and carb please.
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I'm sorry, what is a "carb insulator"? There is fuel in the bulb (it always stays full). The fuel has bubbles in it both in the bulb and the yellow fuel line. Working on pix...
Phill2 said:
I'd get an 1107 carb myself
I've had nothing but problems with 990's.
I run alloy insulators on both my cars with no probs.
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I believe it is an 1107 carb. It is whatever the factory sent it with.
 
The insulator is the piece between the carb and the head.
The stock carb should be an 1107 so you're all set there.
I got you confused with another guy who has a 990.
 
Heynow! said:
So....in the continuing saga of my $1,500 paperweight (my Losi 5ive T 2.0), my latest issue is that it will idle for a few minutes, then die. I take out the spark plug (iridium, because the stock plug wouldn't spark), and it is black and wet. I have not adjusted any carb settings from the factory position. Any idea of how to get rid of this problem so my paperweight will actually run? I have ran two tanks through it so far. Thank you!
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If assume you are running the Zenoah G320RC engine. It is a fantastic engine. I have had years of experience with that engine. The only reason the plug would turn black is because the carb is set to rich. If it wet, the engine is flooding out. Reset the carb to factory specs and adjust as needed.
 
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