What RC is this touring car?

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Pretency

Member
Messages
13
Location
North Somerset
So I've picked up my old FG 1/5th scale that was bought in 2002/2003 from my dad. It's not been raced or started in over a decade.

I don't have a clue what the model is or what it's likely worth. I've just measured the wheelbase and it looks like it's 530. It's pretty stock apart from cable discs on the front.

The exhaust is hanging off and there's no bolts so I need to replace that.

I need to order a new battery pack as well as the old one on there (if it works) is unsafe to use.

So essentially I need some recommendations. Going to get it up and running and clean it up to use again. The shell on it is the old Mercedes DTM CLK.

Anyone with any expertise able to give me advice on what model I have so I can easy trawl for spare bits?

Much love!
 
Got it running. M5 26mm bolts to mount the exhaust to the engine. Gave it a good bit of degreasing. All parts look like they're moving, just a little bit of rust here and there.
Now going to order a battery pack and some clips for the shell.

If anyone knows of what shells I can buy to replace please let me know :)
 
If you have, or don't mind purchasing an expensive charger that can charge LiFe batteries, consider using one for your reciever pack in the car. If the voltage limit of your electronics is 6V, LiFe will likely give you more mAh than AA batteries. That will mean longer run times and a more consistent power delivery to your servos. Also consider a remote kill switch that will allow you to stop the engine from the third channel on the remote; assuming you have a third channel. I'm hardly an authority on this stuff. Just offering you something to research for yourself to make the best choice for your intended use.
 
If you have, or don't mind purchasing an expensive charger that can charge LiFe batteries, consider using one for your reciever pack in the car. If the voltage limit of your electronics is 6V, LiFe will likely give you more mAh than AA batteries. That will mean longer run times and a more consistent power delivery to your servos. Also consider a remote kill switch that will allow you to stop the engine from the third channel on the remote; assuming you have a third channel. I'm hardly an authority on this stuff. Just offering you something to research for yourself to make the best choice for your intended use.
Good stuff. I do have a charger already for it, but it has lead battery connections and I don't have a lead battery to charge the car from. Hence going for the AA option. If I start getting better and more into it I'll start upgrading bits :)

The car has a failsafe on it that should trip it out if signal drops?
 
Awesome. I think you can choose a shell from most of the "long wheel base options" that are available. The post may need some adjustment, etc. But FG has a nice selection. I've only fitted the BMW and Honda Accord, but there are others.
 
I recall that the Accord would fit this chassis. 535? I can't remember the precise wheelbase length. Also I can't find any examples of the CLK or Accord in the UK. Seems they now only do the M3 and Mini Cooper (mega lame).
 
http://www.rctek.com/cars/fg/catalog/2000/index.php


Ithis may be what you want. I'm driving so I can't examine it too closely
That was excellent! Thanks for sharing that. I must have been 12 years old when I read our physical copy of that! Can't see the CLK body in there. Not sure why we didn't get the Mclaren body. Some absolute corkers in there.

Whatever happened to FG. There's at least 10 types of body there. Guessing 5th scale on road cars died a death and financial crash?
 
You may not be able to see from the pictures, but those are not stickers on the outside of the shell. It's all painted, or appears to be, from the inside. Its not perfect, but someone did an exceptional job.
 
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