Whats up with break in ?‍♂️

[DougStar]

Now when you have issues with it after a season consider your warranty over.

Not using premixed fuel?? and I'll be running these motors year round ? as I did with my other gear and never had a problem ?? while I have your attention Sean need a chain saw ? your the saw guru ? want stihl✔

 

[Z.hb71]

Let me just give a speculation. I think that Break in is probably quite exaggerated, but they (engine manufacturer) say to do this longer break in for the sake of the end user, maybe they (buyer) don't know what to do so they need a specific guide. Like some of you guys, just heat cycle it and then run it, well, at what rpm ranges? For how long? Ect, so it's not very set in stone, so I'd assume if they just "heat cycled it a bit and then ran it", while it works for you, a newbie could get the engine, and then do that but do it slightly different (cuz they wouldn't know) and screw it all up, that's why they say a longer break in with specific throttle positions, ect. To cover their arse and to have a idiot-proof break in, if that made any sort of sense.

 

[Phill2]

As you all know I moved few months back?? I now needed some tool to help me round the place. Went down to the local mower place to see what was on offer?? couple models with lipo power mmmmm not my style?? landed up buying a weed wacker and a blower View attachment 56985
The brand if you don't know is stihl
Both machines are 27cc?? when I bought the guy said "if I buy stihl full synthetic 2stroke oil I'd have a 4year warranty"....4 YEARS ??? this and "run it at full revs 24/7" was the only things he said?‍ no mention of a break in? . So the wacker has had 6 tanks through it at full taps no worries ? blower maybe 3 ???. Now here is the thing ......why are we doing a break in on our cars?‍ surely they are made (zenoha) of the same tech as my little stills? Have we just done it coz we did it on nitro rigs? I had before this lot a 40cc wacker ran it 10 years no break in and one plug?? only ever changed the air filter once. .........what's up?‍

Never done a break in on garden tools or my RC cars and had no probs.
Start em and WOT.
Weed wackers have air filters?

 

[Polar_Bus]

My idea of a "break in" is not just letting the engine idle for and hour but more for subjecting the internal components to multiple FULL heat cycles. This is well regarded as "tempering" the internals for a stronger overall reliability. Pro 2 stroke engine builders will take a brand spanking new engine , put it on a dyno for no other reason other than applying a load , and run that b!tch WO for a "break-in" This method not only accelerates the ring seal, but also sets the max stroke cylinder ring groove as high as possible (again for max reliability at peak sustained rpm's . IMO a manufactures "break-in" callout is more from a liability concern than actually necessary for the consumer. Stihl does not want "Johnny Stupid" the consumer running a brand new engine stone cold WOT with recycled Walmart 10w40 engine oil being used as premix...

 

[Seandonato73]

Not using premixed fuel?? and I'll be running these motors year round ? as I did with my other gear and never had a problem ?? while I have your attention Sean need a chain saw ? your the saw guru ? want stihl✔

While I'm a husqy guy at heart, I do own a few stihl saws. Well im down to one and a half right now. I have a 192tc top handle saw I climb with, and co own a 084av. We use stihl exclusively at work due to a stihl dealer being down the street. They work well. Biggest question would be your intended work (how often/how hard will you use it) and approximate maximum cutting size?( ie how big of a tree you want to cut?) A 16" bar will cut a 30 ish inch tree if you know what your doing. For light work I like something in the 40 to 50 cc range. Yes there are smaller but they tend to be a bit gutless. For my general duty role I run a 60cc class saw.
I had a 026 stihl that worked well, my dad actually has it now. The modern equivalent would be a ms261. Comes in around 11 ish pounds, will rock a 16" or 18" bar all day. It is a pro model so it should last a long time this would be my 50cc pick.
60cc pick I would have to go with the ms362. It will be at home with a 18" or 20" bar. It should tip the scales just over 12lbs.
If you want to cheap out and go home owners and small/lightweight for light duty use there is are homeowners saws. I learned a long time ago to stay away, because I use a saw too much. But I have friends that don't cut too often and like the cheaper price point. Smallest I would say is a 32cc class ms180. Its rated for a 16" bar but will have its hands full. A 12 or 14" would be better. Our parks guy uses one at work. He doesn't do any big tree work. Just trims up here and there. And major work we step in and take over. I've never ran it, he loves it. Around 9lbs so it's pretty light for what it is. I would skip the 49cc class altogether and jump up to a ms 250 or ms2501wood boss. Both 50cc class saws and can handle heavier work. Not anywhere as good as a pro saw, but they work surprisingly well for their price point.

 

[Z.hb71]

. IMO a manufactures "break-in" callout is more from a liability concern than actually necessary for the consumer. Stihl does not want "Johnny Stupid" the consumer running a brand new engine stone cold WOT with recycled Walmart 10w40 engine oil being used as premix...

Let me just give a speculation. I think that Break in is probably quite exaggerated, but they (engine manufacturer) say to do this longer break in for the sake of the end user, maybe they (buyer) don't know what to do so they need a specific guide. Like some of you guys, just heat cycle it and then run it, well, at what rpm ranges? For how long? Ect, so it's not very set in stone, so I'd assume if they just "heat cycled it a bit and then ran it", while it works for you, a newbie could get the engine, and then do that but do it slightly different (cuz they wouldn't know) and screw it all up, that's why they say a longer break in with specific throttle positions, ect. To cover their arse and to have a idiot-proof break in, if that made any sort of sense.

Nailed it ????

 

[DougStar]

While I'm a husqy guy at heart, I do own a few stihl saws. Well im down to one and a half right now. I have a 192tc top handle saw I climb with, and co own a 084av. We use stihl exclusively at work due to a stihl dealer being down the street. They work well. Biggest question would be your intended work (how often/how hard will you use it) and approximate maximum cutting size?( ie how big of a tree you want to cut?) A 16" bar will cut a 30 ish inch tree if you know what your doing. For light work I like something in the 40 to 50 cc range. Yes there are smaller but they tend to be a bit gutless. For my general duty role I run a 60cc class saw.
I had a 026 stihl that worked well, my dad actually has it now. The modern equivalent would be a ms261. Comes in around 11 ish pounds, will rock a 16" or 18" bar all day. It is a pro model so it should last a long time this would be my 50cc pick.
60cc pick I would have to go with the ms362. It will be at home with a 18" or 20" bar. It should tip the scales just over 12lbs.
If you want to cheap out and go home owners and small/lightweight for light duty use there is are homeowners saws. I learned a long time ago to stay away, because I use a saw too much. But I have friends that don't cut too often and like the cheaper price point. Smallest I would say is a 32cc class ms180. Its rated for a 16" bar but will have its hands full. A 12 or 14" would be better. Our parks guy uses one at work. He doesn't do any big tree work. Just trims up here and there. And major work we step in and take over. I've never ran it, he loves it. Around 9lbs so it's pretty light for what it is. I would skip the 49cc class altogether and jump up to a ms 250 or ms2501wood boss. Both 50cc class saws and can handle heavier work. Not anywhere as good as a pro saw, but they work surprisingly well for their price point.
[/QUOTE]
Well what will I be doing.....have 10 000 square meter property. Trees at the moment max out at ( the biggest) 30 inches but most are 17-20 Inches. While I'd probably not be cutting the all down??? if some work needs to be done I'll need the tools?? NOT climbing up tree to start with?
NOT LIKE THESE CRAZY GARDENERS??

 

[Seandonato73]

Found a little chart, and I forgot to mention the have a line of intermediate saws as well. Again I've never used any of them, and don't know anyone with any of them. They should be better then the homeowner, but not quite as good as a pro saw. I don't know price point difference, but if were only talking a few bucks between a farm amd ranch model and a pro model I'd bite for the pro model
Edit, buy a pro saw in the 60cc range w/ a 20" bar. Youll be needing something robust, for that kind if work. And a pic of me in a tree. Taking it from the top down?

 

[DougStar]

Found a little chart, and I forgot to mention the have a line of intermediate saws as well. Again I've never used any of them, and don't know anyone with any of them. They should be better then the homeowner, but not quite as good as a pro saw. I don't know price point difference, but if were only talking a few bucks between a farm amd ranch model and a pro model I'd bite for the pro model
Edit, buy a pro saw in the 60cc range w/ a 20" bar. Youll be needing something robust, for that kind if work. And a pic of me in a tree. Taking it from the top down]

???????

???????

 

[21bangbang]

Not enough money in the world to get me up a tree like that. ?

 

[DougStar]

Not enough money in the world to get me up a tree like that. ?

don't forget your chain saw?????

 

[Seandonato73]

Lol it's not that bad, just have to make sure you don't drop it on your head.
And I did some thinking over night. I think you may be better off with 2 saws. A smaller saw for light work and something a bit bigger for your heavy work. My set up is as follows (and when you want a real saw just get what I have ??) general use is a husqy 359/357xp hybrid. 60cc, light, very powerful wears a 18" bar. I use this for everything that isnt a pain with that size bar. Then I bump up to my 390xp 88cc wears a 24" and 36" bar. Not my biggest saw, but the bigger saw I'm always running to grab when I need bigger then my 60cc. If I had to get rid of all.my saws and keep 2 these would be the 2 I keep. Theres nothing you couldnt do from the ground with them.

 

[DougStar]

What ill do is go mid range stihl has "home onwner, land owner and pro"

Not cheap but?

 

[Seandonato73]

If your just getting 1 I'd go with one of the farm boss models. Then you can handle whatever you need. Does look like the price is a bit steep. I gave 1k for my 390xp (88cc pro husqvarna) new with a 24 inch bar and 2 chains. May have something to do with being down under??‍

 

[DougStar]

If your just getting 1 I'd go with one of the farm boss models. Then you can handle whatever you need. Does look like the price is a bit steep. I gave 1k for my 390xp (88cc pro husqvarna) new with a 24 inch bar and 2 chains. May have something to do with being down under??‍

So the exchange rate US.60 = AU1
MS391 Farmboss would be $800 ?
There is a Huski shop Down the road as well may I should get a comparison ✔

 

[Seandonato73]

Fek yes I would. I don't have issue with stihl, but I'd take a husqy over one anyday. Old pic have to take another for you tomorrow. I'll look and see if they still make some of the models I have. All have been solid runners. Little to no issues from them.

 

[DougStar]

Holly fek that's a long bar you got there sean?
????

 

[Seandonato73]

32 inch mate, 100cc saw that one. Got a 42 here somewhere too. don't use that often. Well only in the Alaskan mill, when needed. Normally the 32 takes the cake for the big work.

 

[DougStar]

Holly wood chucks???

 

[Seandonato73]

There you go mate, my most 2 used saws. Second pic is my stihl, may have been dropped a time or two. All good stuff. Will handle whatever wood you need. With these, or similar in stihl.