Working on the brakes looks hard

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C

cub2000

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61
Location
Boston, MA
I found out that my FG MT truck no longer stops as I brake, so I'm going to work on it for the first time. Oh well, it looks complex the way it is. I have to dissemble the whole back section to start looking at the break section. Am I correct?

Will the front brake (if I install it) be easier to work on than the back one?

Thanks in advance.
 

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its not to bad a job looks worse than it is remove large gear then you have three hex head bolt that hold the gear carrier on remove those disconect brake rod more or less it the fronts are much better to work on good luck once youve done a couple of jobs on one of these you will be able to work onit blindfolded if you get stuck just ask theres tons of people willing to give good advice on here good luck
 
i myself would not reason being it will stop but like a front wheel drive car on ice it will lock the front wheels up and go straight ahead i had mine like this a while back it wasnt very much fun i was havin to break early put the fronts on and overhaul the rear one or get a set for the rear wheels like the front set and have disc on each wheel but its not realy needed i run front cable breaks on mine but with hydro layshaft break works realy good plus with the fronts on you can dail in some bias fr or rr and get a nice balence
 
id love front brakes on my MT! but to work on rear just remove the pin using allen keys that holds the brake rod, take off spur gear and carrier, then remove gear carrier and its all there. looks hard but once you start dead easy.
 
I found out why the brakes stop working. The brake square piece on the rear layshaft is somehow moved too far to the right, so it's off the brake pads. I wish the manual has some kind of guideline of how far the square should be from one end of the shaft. Do I just sit it on the layshaft at the location where the brake pads are?

Also, on the second pic, there seems to be enough room for a second bearing in there for the layshaft holder, should I get another one in there? If so, what is the part number for this bearing?

Thanks in advance.
 

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You won't need another bearing because the stress is sent to the gear plate bearing.

The part you had fail is adjusted last. Set up the entire set up without tightening the brake square. After the gear plate is set, pull the square against the bearing. This is where it runs. Tighten it there and use blue locktight.
 
I uploaded the pic here. Do I need any spacers between the gear and the layshaft holder there? Right now I have them lean on each other like that and the gear seems to turn just fine, but I'm not sure that's the way it should be.

Thank you.
 

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Thanks frumpy,

Looking at the attached pic, it appears that the brake square is awfully close, about touching the other part on the engine. Is this normal?
 

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I can't say :eek:because I don't have any rear brakes on mine right now just front discs....:D

Here's a pic from another member though;)and it does look close....
 
Last edited:
Make sure you get the brake pads on the brake square and pull the square against the plate bearing.

Yes, use as many spacers you want to make the gears align. I use them on both my spur and pinions to get them to run perfectly aligned.
 
Bigger the Better,

Yes, that's what I did, set the brake pads on the brake square and pull the square against the plate bearing, but the brake square seems too close to the other part that I'm afraid that they smash into each other during operation.

frumpy: that pic was mine before I replaced the parts and yeah, I wondered why they were so close like that at the beginning.

Thanks.
 
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