XJman's Rovan 5b build
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- #42
I found the problem. I think its still good.
What are opinions on spur and pinion combos? I see DDM has Their black magic but it looks like I'll lose the dampening nuggets. Should I just buy a stock setup or is there a better aftermarket option?
What are opinions on spur and pinion combos? I see DDM has Their black magic but it looks like I'll lose the dampening nuggets. Should I just buy a stock setup or is there a better aftermarket option?
I see you found problems. I got got a ""tourqe "" set of ddm black magic for future experiment. They are very heavy and will probably drill lightening holes. Yes you loose dampener. Also got complete stock setup for breakage, dirt cheap. Check everything for loose bolts, no locktite on anything from factory. Found my clutch carrier loose while doing rear brake kit.
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- #44
Yep one of the screws I already checked and loctited came loose. Again. Ive been having some issues with blue loctite lately.
Either way I re coated it and put a dab of super glue on the countersink to aid in holding. I'm thinking of grabbing those or the hostile setup. I like the idea of the added torque but heavy gears are gears that don't like changing speed.
Either way I re coated it and put a dab of super glue on the countersink to aid in holding. I'm thinking of grabbing those or the hostile setup. I like the idea of the added torque but heavy gears are gears that don't like changing speed.
Dunc2504
Well-Known Member
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- #46
You notice any issues having the rigid spur vs having a dampened one?
Haven't installed yet. I think ddm has them manufactured. Many years ago had 2 hpi 5sc trucks and only stripped 1 spur gear because they had plastic clutch bell carriers. The rovan came with aluminum carrier. It almost looks like you're mesh might have gotten tight do to heat????
Dunc2504
Well-Known Member
Hi.
Not noticed any ill affects from getting rid of the spur damping at all.
These are much lighter with the alloy hub , I run the Taylor titanium shaft as well now.
Works for me and gears are nice and hard wearing.
Not noticed any ill affects from getting rid of the spur damping at all.
These are much lighter with the alloy hub , I run the Taylor titanium shaft as well now.
Works for me and gears are nice and hard wearing.
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- #49
Not sure if I can adjust the mesh on the baja. I looked and It doesn't look like I can shift anything even the engine.
I wound up with the hostile billet carrier and their plastic spur. I'll see how it goes
I also installed the turtle racing rear HD shock mount. Everything is waiting for loctite to cure and I'm going to get out and whip on it.
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- #50
I beat the absolute hell out of it yesterday and this morning. Shout out to hostile because those gears are super durable even with landing hard while on throttle.
My only complaint left, until I break it again, is the tuned pipe. I'd rather it be silenced or at least routed better.
My only complaint left, until I break it again, is the tuned pipe. I'd rather it be silenced or at least routed better.
Got this last week. Listed as 23 to 32 cc so being my is 36 was a bit concerned with performance. Ran it today and can't tell but don't think it's hurting at all . Tad bit quieter but way better than the huge pipe hanging out the back. Not sure which part number, one is cage other is pipe, both rovan
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- #52
Damn
I was looking at that one. I was torn between it or the DDM fast pipe. The victory side pipe is up there on my list too but is quite spendy. THe exhaust volume isn't a huge problem unless I'm in my back yard and the house and tree line act like an amplification system and it will make your ears ring. The ddm silencer worked wonders but with the stock exhaust and it just hanging out in the air it keeps breaking the rubber tube.
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- #53
So as I look through parts for these there are a ton of companies out there. Are there specific brands to avoid? I know that's kind of silly considering I bought a cheap Chinese clone but I was curious. There's a ton of these that look like exactly the same parts and I assume they are.
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- #54
My front brake kit is here and I'll put it on tomorrow or Monday. I'll try and get photos for the thread but I'm not a real photo guy.
Ive been beating it pretty good this week. It's been good weather and dry. There's a construction zone that is close to my house I can rip in and not bother people so it's been pretty great. I've had the xr5 out as well.
I've adjusted the sym steering links in to about 70mm from about 71 it seems a little more stable. Everything else has been ok but driving the MCD back to back tells me how weak that rovan motor is. I'm definitely going to have to replace it at some point over the winter.
Anyone put wider hubs on? I'm worried the leverage on them will break the knuckles. I'm trying to get a little more stability. I was thinking roll bars too if anyone has any opinions.
Ive been beating it pretty good this week. It's been good weather and dry. There's a construction zone that is close to my house I can rip in and not bother people so it's been pretty great. I've had the xr5 out as well.
I've adjusted the sym steering links in to about 70mm from about 71 it seems a little more stable. Everything else has been ok but driving the MCD back to back tells me how weak that rovan motor is. I'm definitely going to have to replace it at some point over the winter.
Anyone put wider hubs on? I'm worried the leverage on them will break the knuckles. I'm trying to get a little more stability. I was thinking roll bars too if anyone has any opinions.
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- #55
So brakes are tentatively installed. I need to fine tune some tuning lengths and make a mount for the front T connector.
The master cylinder is a little low compared to the servo arm making a poor angle for the linkages. I fixed this by using some shim stock and using some super glue and raising it just enough to straighten it enough.
Otherwise the kit fit well although some of the screws were way too long. I would have preferred the lower caliper mounting screw to be m4 to properly fit the hole in the knuckle. But the m3 mounts tight enough.
like the others it didn't come with instructions but it's pretty self explanatory. The only question is the fluid. I'm thinking mineral oil.
The piping might need some heat to soften so I can better run them but I'm going to ride with what I have for now. There's way excess to the front wheels but I am thinking I might zip tie it to the upper arm.
The master cylinder is a little low compared to the servo arm making a poor angle for the linkages. I fixed this by using some shim stock and using some super glue and raising it just enough to straighten it enough.
Otherwise the kit fit well although some of the screws were way too long. I would have preferred the lower caliper mounting screw to be m4 to properly fit the hole in the knuckle. But the m3 mounts tight enough.
like the others it didn't come with instructions but it's pretty self explanatory. The only question is the fluid. I'm thinking mineral oil.
The piping might need some heat to soften so I can better run them but I'm going to ride with what I have for now. There's way excess to the front wheels but I am thinking I might zip tie it to the upper arm.
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- #56
I'll try and get photos in a bit. I created a disaster of a mess when I dumped my shock oil so anyway.
I got everything installed to find out I need the stupid extended wheel hexes. Brakes bled well and after cycling them a few dozen times I've only got a few little bubbles. Once I get more shock oil I'm going to do just that. I printed a little adapter to hold the T fitting and raise it a little to keep the hose from rubbing on the front metal suspension bracket.
I got everything installed to find out I need the stupid extended wheel hexes. Brakes bled well and after cycling them a few dozen times I've only got a few little bubbles. Once I get more shock oil I'm going to do just that. I printed a little adapter to hold the T fitting and raise it a little to keep the hose from rubbing on the front metal suspension bracket.
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- #57
So got to get out and hammer on the new setup a bit. They balance the stopping pretty well. I think I want to adjust the engagement a little so they come on a little later but otherwise they worked out well. I'm actually surprised.
All and all I was out running for about an hour and half. I did get some bubbles that I am certain are from leaks or bad seals. I pumped them about 100 times before going out and no bubbles were to be had. I'm not super mad for the cheap as dirt price. One thing I should have known better was the brake linkage. I couldn't twist it out by hand but it came undone anyway and bit me. I'm going to loctite it and hope that the slight bend isn't the end.
Edited to add a photo of the rotor after the hard run. Rebled the system and I'm not getting bubbles. Its losi 100cst fluid so maybe I'll go a little thicker if it keeps leaking.
All and all I was out running for about an hour and half. I did get some bubbles that I am certain are from leaks or bad seals. I pumped them about 100 times before going out and no bubbles were to be had. I'm not super mad for the cheap as dirt price. One thing I should have known better was the brake linkage. I couldn't twist it out by hand but it came undone anyway and bit me. I'm going to loctite it and hope that the slight bend isn't the end.
Edited to add a photo of the rotor after the hard run. Rebled the system and I'm not getting bubbles. Its losi 100cst fluid so maybe I'll go a little thicker if it keeps leaking.
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Glad you got em up and running. Different kit than mine, yet similar. I think mine was 61 bucks plus maybe 7 in shipping. Strangely mine came with extended kit but didn't need them....Your kit looks like better quality though. Ordered some spare stock today . Lost a front wheel, this was a hpi problem that they upgraded over the years. Eliminates e clip that holds axle to steering carrier.
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- #59
Mine were 50. I don't see the listing now but they were unbranded but came branded. My guess one company makes them all and people just pay for their brand.
I needed the wideners and honestly I'm glad I put them on. Its crazy stable now and actually hard to roll. Its a hell of a thing to run right now and I like them enough I'm considering the hydrax for the xr5.
I will have to get photos of the Jesus clips but they were stressed to the limit and cupped really bad. I think the screw in setup will hold better.
I think my next spend is the RCR brakes and or a new motor. I don't know if I want to run this into the ground or just cut it now.
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- #60
So had more time out today. The master cylinder on this is a pain. I've seen another style for front and rear setups I might try.
I saw a brand named GTB that looks identical to the ones I got but they have actual bleeder nipples. I'm going to try and use those and see if they work to help make bleeding easier and be able to use a syringe easier on in and out. Thankfully the calipers didn't get air this time just the master cylinder so I should be able to bleed from the calipers back then just do a quick squirt at the calipers to finish it off.
As far as the master cylinder. The front seal will not stay tight. I'll be off for several weeks coming up so I might run the master cylinder to work and make a better one. That same company I mentioned before has a master cylinder for 4 wheel setups that looks like it might be a more solid design using a lever instead of a straight plunger to activate the brakes.
I saw a brand named GTB that looks identical to the ones I got but they have actual bleeder nipples. I'm going to try and use those and see if they work to help make bleeding easier and be able to use a syringe easier on in and out. Thankfully the calipers didn't get air this time just the master cylinder so I should be able to bleed from the calipers back then just do a quick squirt at the calipers to finish it off.
As far as the master cylinder. The front seal will not stay tight. I'll be off for several weeks coming up so I might run the master cylinder to work and make a better one. That same company I mentioned before has a master cylinder for 4 wheel setups that looks like it might be a more solid design using a lever instead of a straight plunger to activate the brakes.