Red Race V2

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For a basher like (I assume) you and me, I don't see the point especially for close to $300, and like Sean said, the standard ignition system works well. Instead I'd take that $300 and put it towards a new motor. You get get a good 7.9Hp OBR g340 long block piston port for smack on $300, just throw yer existing parts (clutch, ignition, intake system, fan shroud ect) on it and you got 8hp.
 
Z.hb71 said:
For a basher like (I assume) you and me, I don't see the point especially for close to $300, and like Sean said, the standard ignition system works well. Instead I'd take that $300 and put it towards a new motor. You get get a good 7.9Hp OBR g340 long block piston port for smack on $300, just throw yer existing parts (clutch, ignition, intake system, fan shroud ect) on it and you got 8hp.
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+1????
 
I was debating on that or a different one. I ended up getting regular ignition because not enough proof for the cash outlay. I know a couple people swear they are good though. I guess depends on what your doing with your car,racing might be worth the hit but as stated above- probably best to get better motor. I might still look into in the future though.
If anything consider an oddie one. He makes great stuff.
 
Sorry I'm a bit late to this party, but I gotta add my unasked for opinion on this one.

The only thing an ignition system does on a 2-stroke is make a spark. It can be a strong spark, or a weak spark, but if the fuel explodes, it will have done its job. You cannot magically gain HP because your ignition sends more grunt to the plug. In a vacuum (all other variables removed): if the spark is weak, the fuel won't go boom, or will partially detonate, leading to poor performance, which you will immediately see. If the spark is within spec of the delivery of your plug, it will explode and move the engine. It doesn't matter if the ignition delivers 100%, 150% or 200% of the plug's rating, it will still only spark at its rated temperature.

I've been around the block long enough to see many custom flywheels, and there has never been empirical evidence to suggest that they increase power delivery in any way. You can change the timing without needing a new flywheel, and the stock Zen fin setup has always proved optimal. The extra cooling they claim is another thing not needed. Unless you're running a very high fuel/oil ratio. And even then, there is no evidence delivered that this flywheel will deliver extra cooling.

I think any advantage this type of kit will give, it it give any, will be within the .001's of a second in a race. That's a pretty high ROI if you're just racing for fun or bashing.

There are a lot of other variables that will make a real difference, like compression, fuel octane used, oil/fuel ratio, air filter flow, engine displacement, etc. I race my Cooper with the stock ignition, because it's exactly what my engine needs. I've tried all the others, and it outperforms them every time. And this is a much more complicated motor than our little 2-strokes.

Now, every time I see "race" ignitions announced, all I see in my mind's eye are a bunch of flat brimmed cap wearing "Chads" with Subaru WRX's lining up at the door of their auto parts dealers waiting to slap down tons of bucks on a (less than) stock ignition that was just painted red.

I will say this, aside from the ignition itself, which I fully believe is just a rebadged stock Zenoah, that is one pretty piece of kit with all the custom machining and CF, etc. But once you put the pull start on it, your car won't look any different. Unless slap the included decals on your body, that is.

Okay, end rant...
 
I have not tried the ignition you posted but I did use to have a modellsport m1 ignition and the only difference I really noticed was a quicker spool up due to the lighter rotor.
It sparked like a goodun though, I held the plug cap so the plug was touching the cylinder and span the engine over and the spark jump right up a belted me on the finger? never again.
I sold it on ebay for £80 in the end iir as it wouldn't fit any of my billet cases. ??
 
It will NOT fit RCMK motors . And it will not fit the 38-45cc motors out there now as the coil post on cylinder are a little higher up and the TPS unit has a small window in gap adjustment. The coil has almost twice the spark output and running a plug gap of .100 is normal with these. There is about 1 1/2 degree timing bump built into coil mount and rotor key pocket. You MUST use plastic starter pawls only or risk stripping the tabs off fan. The spark plug wire that comes with kit is way short and needs to be replaced right off. The power increase is not BS and well worth the bolt on upgrade. DDM has both types, OFF ROAD and ON ROAD kits. there is also a coil mount that has even more timing built into it . when installed on a well modded motor these kits are great and let the motor sing. they kept the weight of the rotor just under stock flywheel weight so motors will idle smooth and not stumble on spoolup. Ultra lite flywheels /rotors setups can cause major tuning problems and weights should be kept close as possible to the factory fly weight.
 
dougstar said:
Thats great but still $300 you could almost buy an ESP Race ported top end
And a vrc tuned pipe ? i know what id do? and these will give a much better hp kick??View attachment 52577
View attachment 52578
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But if you already have a powerful engine and exhaust, i suppose its worth, if an increase of 15-25% for an engine that already pushes 7-8hp.
lorraine said:
It will NOT fit RCMK motors . And it will not fit the 38-45cc motors out there now as the coil post on cylinder are a little higher up and the TPS unit has a small window in gap adjustment. The coil has almost twice the spark output and running a plug gap of .100 is normal with these. There is about 1 1/2 degree timing bump built into coil mount and rotor key pocket. You MUST use plastic starter pawls only or risk stripping the tabs off fan. The spark plug wire that comes with kit is way short and needs to be replaced right off. The power increase is not BS and well worth the bolt on upgrade. DDM has both types, OFF ROAD and ON ROAD kits. there is also a coil mount that has even more timing built into it . when installed on a well modded motor these kits are great and let the motor sing. they kept the weight of the rotor just under stock flywheel weight so motors will idle smooth and not stumble on spoolup. Ultra lite flywheels /rotors setups can cause major tuning problems and weights should be kept close as possible to the factory fly weight.
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From where do you have experience with this ignition?
 
we have bought 2 of these kits from DDM this year alone, Just be warned that for some reason DDM sends out the first one they grab in shipping room and will send ya the on road kit. Check box numbers very close and NOT DDMs stock sticker before you get to far along, And by the way NO decals are in any of the boxes that are shipped here to the USA from UK
 
Well i guess there are other upgrades i will do first, but i sure would like to try it. Therefore im obviously interested in oppinions.
lorraine said:
we have bought 2 of these kits from DDM this year alone, Just be warned that for some reason DDM sends out the first one they grab in shipping room and will send ya the on road kit. Check box numbers very close and NOT DDMs stock sticker before you get to far along, And by the way NO decals are in any of the boxes that are shipped here to the USA from UK
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If i buy i will buy from TPS
 
With detroit P selling the R/C max GT40 at under $1000.00 and with a modded WT990 and a booster pipe with a stinger mod done to it for flow , It is the best deal hands down in the long run!
 
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