Dead ESP G340 Ported Engine!?

[smokinwheel]

hi buddy,

Yeh seems odd how this has happened DDM did say that another cause can be the engine sitting idle for a while, i did this! ..so I can only assume that this is what caused the failure, it was sat idle for about 4-5min before I took off, but I still think this is odd for an engine like this as I know over the years I've had my engines sitting there on idle mid summer for longer periods with no issues . I didn't think it would be an issue as temperature here is cold as its mid winter.. but that's the only thing I've done that I can think of that might have caused this.

Anyhow, its been done... rebuild head kit ordered! so will throw that on then decided what I'm to do going forward, keep this engine, or sell it along with a Bartelone pipe for funds towards a Taylor 35 Reed V2! which was my original choice but the V2 weren't available when I was looking for new engine! ..will see

I know that sometimes $hit happens and like you are saying we just move on.
Of course, as we move on there is a tendency to make it better.
This is all part of the game we choose to play. Sometimes you win and other days you lose. Can't quit so just plow ahead.

Still a heck of a lot cheaper than spanking a piston out of the motor in your race car.
I won't even go there. LOL $$$

Personally if it was me I would just tell myself it was time for an upgrade.
New piston and cylinder , a little port work , throw some timing into it and a little carb work.
There is without a doubt power to be made in there.

Rebuild what you have , try it and go from there.
Note to self: " Clean and go through carburetor before you fire it up again!"

 

[tizdaz]

I know that sometimes $hit happens and like you are saying we just move on.
Of course, as we move on there is a tendency to make it better.
This is all part of the game we choose to play. Sometimes you win and other days you lose. Can't quit so just plow ahead.

Still a heck of a lot cheaper than spanking a piston out of the motor in your race car.
I won't even go there. LOL $$$

Personally if it was me I would just tell myself it was time for an upgrade.
New piston and cylinder , a little port work , throw some timing into it and a little carb work.
There is without a doubt power to be made in there.

Rebuild what you have , try it and go from there.
Note to self: " Clean and go through carburetor before you fire it up again!"

aye cheers buddy!

Also do you or anyone know what the difference is between spark plugs, CMR7A & CMR7H ? what do the letters indicate and what is best for this engine?

Cheers!

 

[smokinwheel]

C = thread size
M = style ( compact in this case)
R = resistor
7= heat range
A = firing end design ( listed as special application)
or
H firing end design ( also listed as special application)

Not seeing much of a difference there.

 

[tizdaz]

C = thread size
M = style ( compact in this case)
R = resistor
7= heat range
A = firing end design ( listed as special application)
or
H firing end design ( also listed as special application)

Not seeing much of a difference there.

yeah weird!? will stick with the CMR7H as this what ive always used Cheers!
oki so ordered head kit, decided to order few other bits at same time, nothing major as wanted to keep it under £130 due to import tax in UK!

so got some aluminium servo clamps, exhaust stud set, cpl of spark plugs & some fuel line (never have enough fuel line!!)

Hopefully will be here soon then will get the rebuild done!

 

[tizdaz]

this sint going well at all!

Contacted DDM, told them the issue etc & gave me link for the kit i needed, placed order, order arrived today, taken the day off work to take my time to fit it etc, all went together great, went to turn it by hand to test it all runs smoothly, then boom! ..the piston is hitting the top of head!?

This has to be because the head kit they sent me isnt for my engine, my engine is the race ported one which has the 2mm longer crank shaft, which would explain why the piston is hitting top of head! so just fired them an email as now im guessing i will have to strip it all down and send it back to them so they can send me correct kit!

I know lots have ordered parts from DDM with no issues, i have myself! but one would think they would double/triple check orders (especially intl. orders due to cost of postage!) that they are sending correct items! Pretty p!ssed atm as i also took a day off work to get it all fit which has cost me as well

Anyway will see what DDM say. i know these things happen etc so hopefully they will sort it fast

not going well!

 

[Rep732]

Can you take a picture of the label on the box that the head came in? What was the part number they told you in the email? The zenoah box will be labeled as the picture I've attached, I'm curious to see what yours says.

 

[tizdaz]

hi buddy, mine says CA290 (has no letter at the end)



in the email I just told them what my engine was (ESP G340 race ported) and that I purchased it not too long ago.

he then replied and give me a link in the email that pointed to this:
https://www.ddmracing.com/Zenoah-G320RC4-Bolt-Top-End-Kit-38mm-31-8cc-967319401
so I didn't question it as I'm new to all this stuff & they are the experts, so I just ordered it.

But after checking it now because of the issue, it seems the one he linked me and the one I ordered is for the stock zen340 not the esp race ported which have a 2mm longer crank

Like i say though, no biggy tbh, I'm more annoyed because I taken a day off work to do it than I am that I was given link to wrong part! sh!t happens!

On the plus side, i had no issues fitting it even though 1st time I've done a top end rebuild, obv I cant test it! but it moved nice and smooth by hand until the piston hit the top ofc! took my time, even the small clips that hold the piston on i did with no probs as I believe these can be a PITA!

 

[jeepfreak1972]

25:1 seems to be the standard and that seems heavy on the oil so I would think it is beyond safe.
Especially with today's oil technology that has gotten drastically better over the years.
I am running Amsoil Dominator @ 25:1 myself with VP non ethanol fuel.

I do a lot of hot-rod chainsaw work and much of that we will run at 40:1 and "maybe"32:1 and never any sort of an issue.
When cylinders are removed there is always oil residue in the bottom of the crankcase.

Is there any chance that it went lean maybe from something like a partially clogged jet?
Just thinking out loud.

Keep us posted please. I am really curious what went sideways here.

Another hot rod saw guy....cool. I also run Dominator @25:1 with VP racing 94 octane small engine fuel in everything RC and my ported saws.

The engine in this thread looks lean seized to me. If it had caught a ring on the exhaust port the ring would be damaged. I suppose the plating could have flaked off causing that but thats a pretty large area for that to be the cause.

 

[tizdaz]

just a quick one guys, how long does it usually take for DDM to respond to emails? Only asking as I sent one Last Fri regarding this issue but no reply as yet so was just wondering as i know a few of you deal with them regularly, cheers

 

[jeepfreak1972]

just a quick one guys, how long does it usually take for DDM to respond to emails? Only asking as I sent one Last Fri regarding this issue but no reply as yet so was just wondering as i know a few of you deal with them regularly, cheers

They have always answered me within 48 hours.

 

[tizdaz]

ok cheers, will fire them another

 

[MrFnisse]

Before you rebuild it and start it up make sure your crank seals are in good shape. Hade seals burn out (on the clutch side) from overheated clutches due to heavy wet sand on the tracks. Causing air leaks and engine knocking. Do you have small "potholes" on the top of the piston ?

 

[tizdaz]

Before you rebuild it and start it up make sure your crank seals are in good shape. Hade seals burn out (on the clutch side) from overheated clutches due to heavy wet sand on the tracks. Causing air leaks and engine knocking. Do you have small "potholes" on the top of the piston ?

ermm... i cant start it up as it had siezed!

Piston was fine except for part of the ring welding its self to it due to the heat which caused the sieze. Gaskets/seals all round bottom seem fine etc.

All sorted now, DDM got back to me, they misread my 1st email which is why they sent me out a stock head kit instead of the race ported one, but fair play to them.. they posted correct one out & was here with me within 2 days! (I live in UK) that's faster postage than if I bought something less than 100 mile away! So props to them, that's what you call A1 customer service!!

Anyway I fit it with no issues, turned it by hand, compression is excellent & smooth as silk (just like new!) ...touch wood!! Going to start it up tommoz just to make sure its all ok

On the flip side, after a long think, I've decided I'm going to sell this mill & also my other pretty much brand new Stock Zen 32 that came with my dibby to go towards funds for a Taylor 35 Reed V2. As I still feel that this tuned engine still doesn't have enough power/torque for my liking, probably because my DBXL 2.0 is HEAVY! as its mostly alloy, so cant really fault the engine at all, I'm hoping the Taylor 35 V2 reed will give me the power I want!? time will tell!

Anyway, once again, props to DDM

will post some pics of the damage & also the rebuild over next day or 2