30DN BWS-5B first rc giant scale car

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Oil as far as? Any oil on any external parts will accelerate wear, if you want to lubricate hinge pins or any dog bones or cv's you must use a dry graphite lubricant. Generally any Camber, steering links will seem sloppy as its just the way it is with plastic eyelets. Make sure to use a quality air filter oil that's tacky, I use maxima air filter oil and it's good and tacky. Try to stay out of sand or dirt that's very dusty as you will be replacing an engine as well as the wheel bearings. I've posted my experience with dust and I lost a few engines to fine particulates.
 
Rep732 said:
Oil as far as? Any oil on any external parts will accelerate wear, if you want to lubricate hinge pins or any dog bones or cv's you must use a dry graphite lubricant. Generally any Camber, steering links will seem sloppy as its just the way it is with plastic eyelets. Make sure to use a quality air filter oil that's tacky, I use maxima air filter oil and it's good and tacky. Try to stay out of sand or dirt that's very dusty as you will be replacing an engine as well as the wheel bearings. I've posted my experience with dust and I lost a few engines to fine particulates.
Click to expand...
Thanks, you have been a ton of help. My engine only has one filter. Not an inner and outer. Should I oil it?

20231123_225302.jpg
 
seems like you're doing all the right things so far fella (y),
oil the filter for sure, ryan @Rep732 is giving you all the right advice,
camber at front is normal, dry graphite lube, oil the filter etc,
great that you fitted a kill switch from the get go as well, so many people new to large scale don't fit a kill switch and soon regret it if they have a runaway,
run the car and then dial it in as you go fella, then upgrade as you break parts or wear parts out,
and enjoy it, large scale cars are so much fun (y),
it just gets a little expensive once you're bitten by the bug :LOL:,
 
spents said:
seems like you're doing all the right things so far fella (y),
oil the filter for sure, ryan @Rep732 is giving you all the right advice,
camber at front is normal, dry graphite lube, oil the filter etc,
great that you fitted a kill switch from the get go as well, so many people new to large scale don't fit a kill switch and soon regret it if they have a runaway,
run the car and then dial it in as you go fella, then upgrade as you break parts or wear parts out,
and enjoy it, large scale cars are so much fun (y),
it just gets a little expensive once you're bitten by the bug :LOL:,
Click to expand...
Kill switch was a no brainer. Seen a giant scale plane take a couple fingers due to someone not having one. Like I said I'm impressed by this "budget" set up. Of course electronics could be better and nobody knows how long the engine will last but the car seems to be built really well though. Got the body finished. Used a piece of black vinyl to cover up the screw up I did. It will prevent scratches on rollover too lol. Air filter oil should be here in a couple days. Wife actually was relieved I went with an RC car instead of a plane lol. Planes get outrageous on price.

20231125_005015.jpg
One last question then I'll leave you guys alone and just play lol. Car came with a 5 cell 3000 mah Nimh battery. From my first run I might get 2 tanks out of it. Which is fine cause they run forever on a tank. I would probably charge between tanks to be safe. I'm using a Dynamite kill switch so if I go 2S Lipo I don't think it will allow for low voltage shut off. Now it is set for 6.0V (via jumpers). Radio doesn't allow for ch3 to shut off in signal lose🤬🤬. But it does have a fail safe to apply full break and 0 throttle. So only thing that could happen where it wouldn't stop is my throttle servo go bad, break, etc AND I lose signal. So most likely ok there. Anywhere to get a bigger, say 4200mah Nimh battery flat pack? Can't seem to find one.
 
Last edited:
re check your transmitter settings fella, the aux channel or 3rd channel needs setting for two way switched for the kill switch to work on 3rd channel,,
also you can set voltage cut off to 4v, 5v or 6v with the jumpers on the dynamite kill switch,
as far as i can tell you're in the states? had a look on ddm and they list a 4200mah nimh battery but out of stock at moment,
over my side of the pond in the uk there is a 5000mah overlander flat pack listed as an option for the 30 degree buggy,
link to the uk one for reference,

https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/overlander-nimh-battery-pack-subc-5000mah-6v-flat-premium-sport.html

the 3000mah nimh you're using should last longer than a couple of tanks, see if the capacity increases after a few charge/discharges,
i wonder if the nimh is activating the kill switch when it drops to 6v going off your settings, maybe drop the cut off to 5v and try that with the nimh you have,
the 6v cut off may be too sensitive for the nimh i mean, changing to 5v is up to yourself and whether you feel comfortable doing that,
it does say in the dynamite instruction sheet that that kill switch is compatable with lipo batteries as well,
so with a 7.4v lipo set to 6v cut off, if i'm wrong with any of this hopefully someone corrects me,
you don't need to leave us alone fella, we will help you out where we can (y) (y) :D
 
spents said:
re check your transmitter settings fella, the aux channel or 3rd channel needs setting for two way switched for the kill switch to work on 3rd channel,,
also you can set voltage cut off to 4v, 5v or 6v with the jumpers on the dynamite kill switch,
as far as i can tell you're in the states? had a look on ddm and they list a 4200mah nimh battery but out of stock at moment,
over my side of the pond in the uk there is a 5000mah overlander flat pack listed as an option for the 30 degree buggy,
link to the uk one for reference,

https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/overlander-nimh-battery-pack-subc-5000mah-6v-flat-premium-sport.html

the 3000mah nimh you're using should last longer than a couple of tanks, see if the capacity increases after a few charge/discharges,
i wonder if the nimh is activating the kill switch when it drops to 6v going off your settings, maybe drop the cut off to 5v and try that with the nimh you have,
the 6v cut off may be too sensitive for the nimh i mean, changing to 5v is up to yourself and whether you feel comfortable doing that,
it does say in the dynamite instruction sheet that that kill switch is compatable with lipo batteries as well,
so with a 7.4v lipo set to 6v cut off, if i'm wrong with any of this hopefully someone corrects me,
you don't need to leave us alone fella, we will help you out where we can (y) (y) :D
Click to expand...
I can't seem to figure out how to make ch 3 turn off in the event of a signal loss. I basically just turn transmitter off to check it and it stays on. All else is working properly for channel 3. May be me though I'll just have to play with settings more. Kill switch is doing fine with the Nimh on 6v jumper setting. Right now the only thing that would mess me up is if the throttle/brake servo went out and I lost signal at the same time. That would be really odd to happen but you can't ever be too safe. And yes I am in the USA
 
kbailey45us said:
I can't seem to figure out how to make ch 3 turn off in the event of a signal loss. I basically just turn transmitter off to check it and it says on. May be me though I'll just have to play with settings more. Kill switch is doing fine with the Nimh on 6v jumper setting. Right now the only thing that would mess me up is if the throttle/brake servo went out and I lost signal at the same time. That would be really odd to happen but you can't ever be too safe. And yes I am in the USA
Click to expand...
yeh you're right you can never be too safe fella (y) ,
stcik with it with the settings and i'm sure you will get it all sorted, i think most of us have been there with the settings problems on various radios,
been there myself for sure :ROFLMAO:,
actually similar but on a futaba radio, couldnt get kill switch to activate on ch3, then finally figured out it had to be two way switch on the channel,
took me an age to figure out how to make the channel switched though,
not sure on how your radio works cos i've never seen one of those before though,
 
spents said:
yeh you're right you can never be too safe fella (y) ,
stcik with it with the settings and i'm sure you will get it all sorted, i think most of us have been there with the settings problems on various radios,
been there myself for sure :ROFLMAO:,
actually similar but on a futaba radio, couldnt get kill switch to activate on ch3, then finally figured out it had to be two way switch on the channel,
took me an age to figure out how to make the channel switched though,
not sure on how your radio works cos i've never seen one of those before though,
Click to expand...
Yeah this radio is a cheap one for sure. Actually rather decent considering. If I stick with it and the car holds up all the electronics will eventually be upgraded. Ch 3 operates the kill switch perfect I just want ch 3 to turn off in the event of a signal loss from transmitter. Now if the receiver is turned off or battery dies etc the kill switch will turn off, just not on a signal loss from transmitter. It's perfectly fine I just tend to get a little OCD about some things lol
 
kbailey45us said:
Yeah this radio is a cheap one for sure. Actually rather decent considering. If I stick with it and the car holds up all the electronics will eventually be upgraded. Ch 3 operates the kill switch perfect I just want ch 3 to turn off in the event of a signal loss.
Click to expand...
ah right fella,
if you have the car sat without it running but tx and rx on and kill switch is active, ie; the engine would start, then turn off the transmitter the kill switch should activate, or wheels off or on a stand with engine idling and turn the transmitter off the engine should kill,
if it does then that should simulate a loss of signal if that makes sense,
thats how i test my kill switch before every bash, turn on without starting, check kill switch is on and ready, turn off transmitter and kill switch activates means its good to go,
turn on and start and off i go,
i use a different kill switch to you though, i use killer rc superbee on all my cars, and have a buzzer and external led so its easy to check the status of the switch etc,
 
spents said:
ah right fella,
if you have the car sat without it running but tx and rx on and kill switch is active, ie; the engine would start, then turn off the transmitter the kill switch should activate, or wheels off or on a stand with engine idling and turn the transmitter off the engine should kill,
if it does then that should simulate a loss of signal if that makes sense,
thats how i test my kill switch before every bash, turn on without starting, check kill switch is on and ready, turn off transmitter and kill switch activates means its good to go,
turn on and start and off i go,
i use a different kill switch to you though, i use killer rc superbee on all my cars, and have a buzzer and external led so its easy to check the status of the switch etc,
Click to expand...
I have an external led. When I turn TX and rx on the kill switch is off until I activate it. But if it is activated and I turn TX off it stays on. Thats my only problem. Can't say the radio won't do it though cause I am unsure. I've been out of the game for a while. Like I said I flew giant scale rc planes for a long time but that was a long time ago. My last setup for giant scale planes was a Spektrum DX8, I think Savox servos, and I ran A123 batteries. My planes had electronic ignition. My daughter in the pic is almost 12 years old now and I stopped shortly after this was taken.

Screenshot_20231109_141202_Facebook.jpg
This is what my buggy looks like.i painted the wheels as well. Used some paint on the body that was awful so it didn't turn out the best. Used some vinyl on the top to cover some imperfections and figured if it flips it will protect it.
kbailey45us said:
I have an external led. When I turn TX and rx on the kill switch is off until I activate it. But if it is activated and I turn TX off it stays on. Thats my only problem. Can't say the radio won't do it though cause I am unsure. I've been out of the game for a while. Like I said I flew giant scale rc planes for a long time but that was a long time ago. My last setup for giant scale planes was a Spektrum DX8, I think Savox servos, and I ran A123 batteries. My planes had electronic ignition. My daughter in the pic is almost 12 years old now and I stopped shortly after this was taken.

Screenshot_20231109_141202_Facebook.jpg
Click to expand...

20231125_010007.jpg
I miss flying giant scales planes but it requires a lot more money and time. Also insurance, possibly an enclosed trailer, etc. I love RC so I'm hooked again just in a different category lol
 
Last edited:
that just seems very strange that the kill switch stays on when turning off the tx fella,
there must be a solution though, and i'd bet its a simple solution, the only issue is finding it,
its so easy to overlook things when setting radios and kill switches up,
just as a test, if you have the fail safe full brake set, and then unplug the throttle/brake servo and plug the kill switch into the throttle/brake slot then turn the tx off to see if the kill switch goes to the off/kill position, if it switches from on to off/kill then that would rule out the kill switch as an issue and confirm the tx settings as the problem because you know the throttle/brake rx slot is switching,
if the kill switch still stays in the on/run position then that would mean its a kill switch issue,
just trying to help the best i can (y) ,
giant scale planes are cool as well (y),
its obvious you have experience , its just a strange issue that will have a simple solution,
 
spents said:
that just seems very strange that the kill switch stays on when turning off the tx fella,
there must be a solution though, and i'd bet its a simple solution, the only issue is finding it,
its so easy to overlook things when setting radios and kill switches up,
just as a test, if you have the fail safe full brake set, and then unplug the throttle/brake servo and plug the kill switch into the throttle/brake slot then turn the tx off to see if the kill switch goes to the off/kill position, if it switches from on to off/kill then that would rule out the kill switch as an issue and confirm the tx settings as the problem because you know the throttle/brake rx slot is switching,
if the kill switch still stays in the on/run position then that would mean its a kill switch issue,
just trying to help the best i can (y) ,
giant scale planes are cool as well (y),
its obvious you have experience , its just a strange issue that will have a simple solution,
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the help and I agree I'm sure it's something simple just gotta find it.
 
spents said:
you're more than welcome fella (y) ,
i just wish i had a simple solution for you,
Click to expand...
No big deal, I appreciate it. It's fine how it is, just nothing wrong with that one extra precaution. A 40lb rc vehicle running 35+ can do some damage. Like I said before I saw some fingers get chopped off before due to not having a kill switch on a giant scale plane. Well I didn't see it but it happened at my club. I turned 40 last weekend so I'm old and cautious lol. This was my "mid life crisis" gift 🤣🤣🤣. One thing that I do enjoy about the buggy over the planes is I'm not trying to tune it for every bit of power I can get out of it. I'm happy to be on the rich side a tad. Which is good since the engine isn't a Zenoah or DA etc. I'll tweak on it the more I drive it but it's not a super big deal.
 
Last edited:
Well I think my problem is the cheap radio. All is good though because I only thing that would affect me is if the throttle servo hangs up and radio loses signal at same time. That would be odd so I'm okay for now. Only other question is can the Dynamite kill switch be set up for a 2s lipo for low voltage cutoff? I was going to get a killer Rc one but it was going to take forever. I'm using the stock NIMH now so just put the jumpers to 6V. Will a 2s lipo help that much on these servos? If so can I set the Dynamite switch to cut off for 2s lipo voltage(i like 7.4v at cutoff)? Not used to the "knock off" radios, no offense to 30DN but still.
 
I forgot what the cut off is if you pull the black jumper off but that's my cut off and I run 2s lipo's for the receiver on my 5ives as 2s is stock size for them. If you cut off at 7.4v that's what the battery "normally" is at but full charge is like 8.4 ish volts when I look at my radio. I run the cut off the way I mentioned and it's been fine... as for 2s on your Servos well if it's not rated for it you'll burn them up quicker and yea more power will make them move faster and be a bit stronger for a time.
 
Rep732 said:
I forgot what the cut off is if you pull the black jumper off but that's my cut off and I run 2s lipo's for the receiver on my 5ives as 2s is stock size for them. If you cut off at 7.4v that's what the battery "normally" is at but full charge is like 8.4 ish volts when I look at my radio. I run the cut off the way I mentioned and it's been fine... as for 2s on your Servos well if it's not rated for it you'll burn them up quicker and yea more power will make them move faster and be a bit stronger for a time.
Click to expand...
They are rated for 2s. I would like to go 2s but want to make sure I have the voltage cutoff on my kill switch first.
 
Back
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks