And so it begins

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Yup for the money the GP270 engine is a great engine....
the 30.5 cc with the 2mm stroke will give more torque on low end....
If I was to build a 30.5cc engine I would use a 1mm stroker crank....that would give some rpm's plus some torque...but not real crazy torque like the 2mm stroker crank....
If you like the GP270 the way you buy it then stick with it.........
The alum front brake blocks work...I could not find any so.. I used two 2 small screws as rebar and used epoxy putty to make a square bolck...it worked fine...later
it went to front cable brakes....I just dermaled off the epoxy putty....Slawhammer

do you mean the cy gp290 motor or the nzen g270rc motor

30.5 cc is a good motor ive built a couple, but to build a 30.5cc you need a +2 mm crank (30mm) and a gp290 head (28.5cc) if you use a + 1mm crank you get a 29.5 cc and a little more top end,

ill stick with the g270rc motor, but while im waiting to buy a new head and piston ill use the new g260rc zen motor that came with the fg mt also another fine motor.
 
Last edited:
Hey shane..I ment the zen g270...I had a non think there for minute...
I like the g260 as well good little power plant....Slawhammer
 
thanks RonW ill have a look for some

do you have any part number for them ?

No, no part number,,,
JFC-racing here in the the Neterlands makes these block (CNC)

dscf0167oa8.jpg


2 blocks
4 imbus screws

price €9,20

[email protected]

PS: The best front uprights for FG on the planet comes from JFC-racing!
Zie the picture,,,,, (model 2008)
 
looks good and nice price, i have the fg alloy front uprights ill have to use them till i wear them out, as i cant afford to buy another set of alloy front uprights.

i will look into the front blocks and send them an eamil and see how much the shipping is to australia
 
an update

100_0301.webp

a strip clean a good checking over some more alloy parts to e added install the new g260rc and we are off and bashing again
 
well did a little bit of work on the fg mt.

go to add the alloy rear arms and some of the new 4mm rear sway bar set up, since the stock 5mm sway bar don't fit with the alloy rear shock tower.

100_0304.webp
 
Keep us updated on how those rears work out. I would be interested if they don't wear out too bad. The ball joints are nice for wear but suck in slop.
 
im hoping they don't wear out to quick but because you can buy replace bushes ,when they wear down, ill just drop in new bushes
 
here is the alloy front end i finshed putting together today, i brought this of a forum member second hand, ive been using the alloy bulk heads with the adjustable camber for a while but not with the alloy suspention arms.

its look the part, feels tuff, i think ive got the alloy front uprights the right way round lols, looks like the front uprights steering arms sit in further then the stock plastic ones so ill have to do some adjusting, ive got the spacing clips set simular to stock and ill give thats a go.

i also got the alloy servos saver ive been usin for a bit and just have put 4 new rubber o-rings on it, and i have the alloy lower twin shock mounts but for now ill use the plastic ones as i want to run the 4mm front sway bar and i cant do that with the alloy lower shock mounts it seams.

i still havnt got the governmet $900 hand out and im hoping i will get it soon as since im not working i need it to finsh off the truck.

i still have some other goodies comming for the roll cage, another servo plate so i can run the twin digital hitec steering servos, but for now ive spent all money im aloud to untill i get the goverment hand out.

any way hers some pictures

100_0312.webp

100_0317.webp

100_0318.webp

100_0320.webp
 
Keep us updated on how those rears work out. I would be interested if they don't wear out too bad. The ball joints are nice for wear but suck in slop.

im hoping they don't wear out to quick but because you can buy replace bushes ,when they wear down, ill just drop in new bushes

My rear DPS arms are over a year old done about 40L to 50L and are till good conditions apart from pitting. I have replaced my nylon bushings just then for my MT build, didn't have to but I have to do the right thing:cool2:
 
!!

A nice alloy front do you have!
Everything is FG except the uprights, these are from Elcon.
Very Nice!!!!!!!
 
A nice alloy front do you have!
Everything is FG except the uprights, these are from Elcon.
Very Nice!!!!!!!

Thanks RonW as i didnt know who made the stuff or the part numbers as i brought it secondhand, ive asked jasrx the guy i brought the stuff off who makes the diff mounts and the uprights befor but no answer im guessing my alloy diff mount i brought of him are dps, i don't care who makes the stuff its just good to know

RonW do you know if the uprights are the right way around ?

100_0322.webp



as to me it looks wrong and i cant get the right balance with the uprights and the steering turn buckles
 
Last edited:
well im not going to bolt the alloy front end on the truck till i get some new tefflon bushes as the front arms need some so i can get the spacing to where im happy.

here is a pic with the font end complete, with the stock alloy/pastic shocks and the alloy servo saver.

100_0321.webp
 
Thanks RonW as i didnt know who made the stuff or the part numbers as i brought it secondhand, ive asked jasrx the guy i brought the stuff off who makes the diff mounts and the uprights befor but no answer im guessing my alloy diff mount i brought of him are dps, i don't care who makes the stuff its just good to know

RonW do you know if the uprights are the right way around ?

100_0322.webp



as to me it looks wrong and i cant get the right balance with the uprights and the steering turn buckles

Yes the uprights are right on your picture,,,,
But maybe your steering turn buckles must be above the arms off the uprights!
I have a spacer between de lower arm and the upright, so I have more space for turning between the lower arm and the steering rod.
Look on my pictures in my topic,,,,,
 
ive looked at your pic,s they where helpful

when there weight on the car(when every tines on the car and ts on the ground) the turnbucks are ok, and when you full compress the shock,s the turn buckels miss the top ot the susspention arm, with the turn buckels ontop they hit the susspention arms.

its a poor picture but there is two spacers on the uprights
 
!!

Yes,,,,

Under the upright I have two conical spacers, so that lower suspension arm going down.
No you have more space between the turn buckels and the lower suspension arm.


Sorry for my bad Englisch,,,,,
My language is netherlands
:clown:
 
i know wht you mean ill try it, anoth fg guy on another forum recons ive got the front upright the wroong way around... now im confused...

don't worry about your english its good.

english is my fisrt and only langauge and im realy bad at it....
 
You have the uprights the right way.All you need to is to swap them around. Then you steering stopper will be centered.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top