Bad news for my new red arrow 34cc engine

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Ok, you can take this how you like. That cylinder will live. I've used much worse. Your gonna want to replace all the bearings. Make sure you get the fricken crank lined up right when it goes back together. Or get a new crank. I know money is tight, believe me I get it 100%. As I see it, your not gonna be too deep into this thing. Piston kit, bearings, gasket kit and seals.
 
Im gunna say the piston is well sanded down lol. Where the metal fragments came from well im not sure. @Seandonato73 I always appreciate your input. My standards of what's acceptable is a little higher on my rigs no offense and no offense taken to your post lol. I was waiting for your reply to see what your thoughts were (y)

So my list is as follows

Esp 34cc race port top end kit
Zen stock crank ill push the bearing out of that for the rod
Seals,gaskets
Crank bearings
New wrist pin bearing
 
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that looks like the roller bearing came apart , Im not even sure it had anything to do with sand to be honest ! , those scrapes in the cylinder are to deep for a sand issue they are from metal pieces IMO !!! to me that Cyl is TOAST but see what compression you get, I doubt it will be good , SORRY
 
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@Z.hb71 if the only thing thats changing is the bearing why wouldn't I be able to just split the halves and put them back exactly the way they came off...i can swear if I look at the red arrow crank 1 side is just a hair higher than the other side
 
Rep732 said:
@Z.hb71 if the only thing thats changing is the bearing why wouldn't I be able to just split the halves and put them back exactly the way they came off...i can swear if I look at the red arrow crank 1 side is just a hair higher than the other side
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Your taking both half's apart and un-alinging them, you can eye ball it but fek knows if it's true or not. I wouldn't chance it and just get it done right.
 
Rep732 said:
I'll think about it z. If the bearing was cheaper than buying a whole crank I'd do it. And heres the redneck pre filterView attachment 66341
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And it went through that outerwears too? ?Enough to scar up walls and piston? I'm with @buzzkill. I think something else went wrong bro.
 
Yea i try not to blame others and i try to look and see what i did. But I can't help not to look at the metal fragments at the top of the dome
 
Rep732 said:
Yea i try not to blame others and i try to look and see what i did. But I can't help not to look at the metal fragments at the top of the dome
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have a close at the piston mate, i have an obr 34 reed engine that was blown when i bought it, (long story short is i knew it was blown and it came with a new obr ported top end ) bore and piston were much worse than yours, but turned out the ring locating pin had come out of the piston and had been rattling around and destroyed the top end,
i rebuilt and ran it with new top end, but wasnt happy, replaced the crank as well and its now spot on,
point is that it could be the locating pin thats the metal fragments,
 
The piston is free and clear of any chips or dents. It just seems odd..the piston looked like it was rubbing on sandpaper.. im gunna say i didn't have a good feeling about this engine from day one. When I had to swap clutch housings on it I found alot shavings from machining on the outside of the seal but I brushed it off and ran it. So im going to say no more red arrow stuff
 
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