ChuenouXiao
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #161
Well guys, torqued my Elcon's screw to my crank up close to 90inch lb. Still grind like usual, this sucks!
My new 8k clutch and stock carrier coming on the mail. They are my only hope for now.
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You have all three bolts and spacers holding the gear plate to the engine correct? I'm just trying to think of what could give you an alignment issue between the clutch and bell.ChuenouXiao said:I followed TeamFast Eddy's video and put it together myself. Everything should be correctly installed![]()
Yes sir, all three bolts holding the plate to the engine are on and secure during the rolling test. Also all bolts holding the plate to the chassis were bolted too. Same thing, squeaking noise.RCDAD said:You have all three bolts and spacers holding the gear plate to the engine correct? I'm just trying to think of what could give you an alignment issue between the clutch and bell.
Yep, will install it tomorrow and get back to you Rcdad. Thanks a lot budRCDAD said:You mentioned that you purchased a new standard clutch plate and 2 shoe clutch. If you still have a rubbing issue you most likely have a slightly bent or out of round bell.
The two shoe clutch floats (lack of a better word) on the clutch plate.I also have a question about the slight 1mm wobble on the clutch pad hole when the bolt are not completely tighten to the clutch carrier, should they be center before I tighten or does that even matter?
The larger thinner washer was on the outside of the clutch where the head of the bolt is at while the smaller washer is in between the clutch shoe and the clutch carrier. Sounds right correct? If I swap the washer around, the screw won't go through due to the design of the screwDeluge said:As long as the flat washers go between the clutch and the clutch plate, and the belleville washers go between the clutch and the head of the clutch bolt, it'll be fine. The bolts will center themselves. The assembly tightens up when you snug the bolts up, so it doesn't really matter.
Regardless, those bearings are shot, with dents on the race they are not spinning properly...change em out immediately.ChuenouXiao said:With dents on my larger bearing of my clutch bell shaft, could this be the cause? I think the dents were by me forcing the bearings onto the clutch bell shaft during installation (because one of the bearing just wouldn't slide onto the shaft, according to my memory). I don't remember having each dent on both, but just one. Maybe over time it has gotten worst and is the cause of my clutch engaging even on idle? Please help me out here guys and give me your input. Trying to minimize taking engine apart for crankcase bearing verification issue. I thought I should verify the gear plate bearings first.Note that these bearings below reside inside the MT Aluminum gear plate on the clutch bell shaft. Just in case its not clear.....
Thank you my bud for the quick response. I really appreciate it. I haven't seen RCdad on here for a couple weeks now. I was wondering if he can give me a price listing of a new Clutch bell for my XB along with two new bearings to replace the bad ones. Just in case he doesn't respond soon enough, what other alternative do I have for bearings that are the exact same size?krashkrieg said:Regardless, those bearings are shot, with dents on the race they are not spinning properly...change em out immediately.heres a tip i have used: If you have a socket set, try using a socket close to size of outer ring to knock it into place on a flat surface
What are the two size? For my XB with MT gear plate?krashkrieg said:I'd pick them up from fast eddy...he has good ones cheap and fast shipping...pick up a back up set for the wheels while your at it...
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