Clutch Dragging.

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WVNed

Well-Known Member
Messages
54
I installed a DDM alloy enclosed clutch carrier. After about 5 minutes run time the clutch bell is dragging on the carrier. What am I doing wrong?
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I would check that the bearings are set properly, or see if the carrier is mounted a skewed. It could also be that the bell is warped. I would replace the bell, and or file or shim the mounting surface of the carrier . Or see if you could exchange the carrier altogether.
 
The bell rubbed all the way around and so did the carrier. I would think something was warped it would have rubbed in high spots. It's a mess.
 
I ordered an open type carrier. The bell is a bit ruffed up on the outside but seems to run true.
 
Yes. The stock one on the T1000. The new carrier came today. I stuck it in and spun it. It runs true.
 
I would dremmel that carrier until it glides, thats one nice piece of cnc. I know, you didnt wanna go through the hassle, just install and done.
Is the carrier still under warranty? Or if through Ebay, its legit the claim...
Good to know, thanks for the pictures.
 
I have another bell coming. I will fit it to the carrier. Then I will dremel it.

The fit was very tight. It spun freely when first installed. It was like the clutch dust caused it to spall up. I never thought about it but where is the dust supposed to go with an enclosed carrier?
 
Not to crack on King Motor or anything but the clutch bells are not the best in the world. They aren't one solid piece like a TR bell. I had the same problem with my KM Baja and changed to the TR clutch system and problem solved.
 
I gotta say all the suffering with King Motor ended w the X2. Its true had a bad servo, but most RTR servos are crap. Almost no issues with the KM baja.

On the baja, got a no brand cnc open clutch bell carrier, stock clutchbell, spur and pinion gears. I did change to a one piece DDM cnc clutch plate. I saw many reports of melted and warped plates, binding under load, so went HD on those parts. So far after a runaway, multiple flips, bashing, and all staying together. Did the bolt/nut to keep together the pinion to the bell, red thread locker, no issues.

Its hit or miss on the KM and in my opinion with all rtrs. Someone mentioned, I think it was Revo guy, who had bad luck w the X2 blue servos, and w me, I even got them on the Baja, no issues, but mine was a nightmare w diffs and to others all fine and dandy. Its the nature of the hobby.

Thats DDM brand, send them an email. Those guys have parts etc, and when they want your money is all superb, like all sellers, ikr...
They sent me the wrong bolts for the servo saver upper arm. I sent them a email and the response was that I could buy them at any hardware store. I replied order not complete, they agreed and the morons sent me again the same wrong bolts. I gave up, drove to the hardware store. Give em a hard time, thats no Aliexpress, lets see if they walk the talk.

Good luck
 
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I too had problems with the KM clutch bell and enclosed carrier,went with a Vertigo vented bell and open style carrier and no more problems. This was when putting together my km baja roller.
 
The same parts I have coming. I put juice in the shocks today and it is snowing again.
 
Btw, does anyone here have any experience with the Dynamite kill switch? , DDM is out of the Killer Bee's for the longest and looking for a switch to mount on a Carson C5 friend gave me.
 
Hello everyone, kill switch dilemma.

Killer Bee in the Baja
Dynamite ks on the X2

The Dynamite is too basic, and at least on my setup the Dynamite KS does not energize, only will do its job when activating via the 3rd channel. If for any reason on a stumble the cable connected to the coil pack breaks, the engine will keep running. And at some point one engages the KS and does not realize is not connected, the rc will keep running w an armed kill switch not hooked up. Or one of the connectors itself got loose inside the pull start cover.

The Killer Bee has the buzzer, it will kill the engine if I turn off the tx, if it loses battery, if the cable to the ignition breaks.

Check on Ebay, sometimes DDM has them as listing.

The Dynamite is well secured, hooked to the X2, its performance is limited. For now it stays like that, have tested and it does work, but like I explained above, certain features are not available which should be a no brainer to have them.

Scruffy... I posted some on a X2 thread. The truck covered in mud. Today was operation tear down, its in the chassis, only the diffs and suspension. Even took apart the engine to inspect, all good so far. Am debating between a new OBR for the X2 or a fpv drone. Soon will post more pics (thats if the request was to me) if not then disregard.
 
Scruffy;

Have you tried turn off the Tx while it sits on idle, or disconnect the wire that goes to the ignition and see if the engine turns off? (don't mean manually arming the KS)
Or turn off the rx while the engine is running?

Mine will only kill the engine if I select channel 3, but otherwise doing the above will keep the engine running.
 
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