Completed DBXL build

Bryan K.

Well-Known Member
Messages
79
Location
Richmond Hill, Ontario
Finished up the build over the weekend. Fuelie 30.5cc motor, stock exhaust canister, several FID/AreaRC upgrades. Went with the stock clutch bell and 20T pinion. The only thing I'm a bit peeved with is the RCMK filter I got from DDM doesn't fit the body without the cut out. I had to end up cutting the body. Personally I think it looks terrible. It looks especially bad with that red outer wears filter. Might have to grab a black one. The fitment issue might be due to the bigger head on the 30.5cc vs. the stock 23cc or maybe the Walbro 997 carb is larger as well?

Just wired up the kill switch and everything works as it should. That Hi-tec throttle/brake servo might not be up to the job. It slows down sometimes when applying brakes or seems to struggle. I checked all the cables and the tensions. Everything is perfectly smooth. I built this entire car from scratch. I purchased it as a roller with basically nothing but the diffs and some suspension parts bolted to it. First conversion was to Electric with the Kershaw kit. I didn't like the run times so now I've built it back up to gas. It was a fun build and at least I get to use the parts I want. The inner and outer diff housings are next on the upgrade list. But for now, hopefully I can get some runs out of it without issue. I've heard the diff housings need to be upgraded soon.

Put in 91 octane and Redline 2 stroke synthetic Racing oil 25:1 and ran it through a full 870ml tank. Mostly low idle.

Here's some pics.

bk1.jpgbk2.jpgbk3.jpgbk4.jpg
 
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Seandonato73

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2,011
Looks good mate. See your still running the stock shocks. Ever have issues with them? I ask as you have a much newer version then me and the factory shocks suck big time.
 

Bryan K.

Well-Known Member
Messages
79
Location
Richmond Hill, Ontario
Looks good mate. See your still running the stock shocks. Ever have issues with them? I ask as you have a much newer version then me and the factory shocks suck big time.
thanks,

I had issues in the beginning with them when new. They would stick and barely offer any rebound. I've noticed this is the general experience with most owners. However, decided to run them anyways and they seem to have freed up over time. Now I feel they are perfect. Good amount of rebound and pretty smooth. I'm still using the stock oil, haven't touched them.

I tried the DDM springs which are stiffer. They definitely improve the rebound rate a lot. IMO they were far too stiff though. With the collars adjusted all the way to the top, the shocks wouldn't even go down a bit under the weight of the buggy. They also permanently bent my control (a-arms) over time. I don't recommend this setup. A good setup would be stiffer springs like the DDM ones but shorter so they don't have preload when fully extended. The DDM ones have a very stiff preload with no weight. The design doesn't make sense. BTW, depending on how you run your buggy, the DDM springs are meant for jumps. They hold up well to having the buggy dropped from a height. Aside from that, stick with the stock springs and maybe play around with the oil weights in the shocks. I'm happy with mine now. I don't jump anyways. It's far too heavy for that.
 

Seandonato73

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,011
I got losi 5ive t shocks on mine. I couldn't deal with the shock issues I had. Even the DDM springs didnt seem to work well. But I have one of the earlier k&n editions. I bash and have some nice big hills to jump at my house. My biggest issue was the stock shocks leaking from bent rods. Rebuilt them a few times. Never held up. I also didnt like running diff fluid in them. Tried plugging one hole, then 2, then bought the "upgrade" disk with the 5 small holes.(don't bother they break very easy) Came across a conversion for 5ive t shocks. Originally I had rovan clone shocks. (They lasted a few years) I just redid the dbxl and upgraded to 5ive t 2.0 shocks. Your response makes me believe they must have done something different in the newer models.
 

Billp

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
I got losi 5ive t shocks on mine. I couldn't deal with the shock issues I had. Even the DDM springs didnt seem to work well. But I have one of the earlier k&n editions. I bash and have some nice big hills to jump at my house. My biggest issue was the stock shocks leaking from bent rods. Rebuilt them a few times. Never held up. I also didnt like running diff fluid in them. Tried plugging one hole, then 2, then bought the "upgrade" disk with the 5 small holes.(don't bother they break very easy) Came across a conversion for 5ive t shocks. Originally I had rovan clone shocks. (They lasted a few years) I just redid the dbxl and upgraded to 5ive t 2.0 shocks. Your response makes me believe they must have done something different in the newer models.
I know the DBXLE shocks are a different part number. Dunno about the later DBXLs. Personally I could live with shocks after tweaking and putting on different springs, it was the bendy chassis that causes the most problems with jumping. Thing would compress and bend on a ramp then decompress causing it to tip end over end.
 

Seandonato73

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Messages
2,011
Hmm haven't had chassis issue that I've noticed. Mine had the grace of a brick. Glad you found some thing that worked well for you 👍
 

Bryan K.

Well-Known Member
Messages
79
Location
Richmond Hill, Ontario
I used to question whether or not chassis flex was a real issue on the DBXL. For my type of driving style I don't think it is. However, I noticed when I picked up my DBXL holding the front and back, the chassis actually flexed downward. It was immediately noticeable. Even with all the chassis braces, it doesn't seem to eliminate the problem. Anyone try the AreaRC thicker chassis? They have a lot of sections machined out to save weight apparently. Seemed a bit counter-productive IMO. I don't know if that new chassis will fix the problem, but I've been eyeing it as a possible future upgrade.

BTW, anyone who said that the brushless converted DBXL's were the same weight as the gassers were lying. The Gassers are much much heavier. I had to add a lot more preload to the springs to even out the A arms, and it's definitely not as agile in the corners. It breaks traction much easier weight shifting and it's noticeably heavier to carry around. Not to mention, I never noticed the chassis flex when I picked up my rig till I converted back to gas. I guess I was enjoying a lightweight DBXL when it was electric.
 

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Z.hb71

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Messages
5,614
Location
Hoffman Estates, Illinois
I used to question whether or not chassis flex was a real issue on the DBXL. For my type of driving style I don't think it is. However, I noticed when I picked up my DBXL holding the front and back, the chassis actually flexed downward. It was immediately noticeable. Even with all the chassis braces, it doesn't seem to eliminate the problem. Anyone try the AreaRC thicker chassis? They have a lot of sections machined out to save weight apparently. Seemed a bit counter-productive IMO. I don't know if that new chassis will fix the problem, but I've been eyeing it as a possible future upgrade.

BTW, anyone who said that the brushless converted DBXL's were the same weight as the gassers were lying. The Gassers are much much heavier. I had to add a lot more preload to the springs to even out the A arms, and it's definitely not as agile in the corners. It breaks traction much easier weight shifting and it's noticeably heavier to carry around. Not to mention, I never noticed the chassis flex when I picked up my rig till I converted back to gas. I guess I was enjoying a lightweight DBXL when it was electric.
I don't own a dbxl nor have I ever owned one of them chassis. But, area RC says it's 7075 aluminum, your stock chassis is likely 6061, so in that case, it should eliminate flex.
 

Seandonato73

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,011
I can honestly say I never noticed a lot of flex in my chassis. I just went and grabbed it and gave it a voice in my hands holding the bumpers. Idk very hard to tell for me.
 
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