Custom 70cc engine build

Is it worth it or stupid?

  • YES

    Votes: 20 62.5%
  • Hell no

    Votes: 2 6.3%
  • Kinda

    Votes: 4 12.5%
  • YES

    Votes: 3 9.4%
  • Nah I'll pass

    Votes: 3 9.4%

  • Total voters
    32
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I would be very careful smacking around a hard m8 crank end!!! , snap off alot easier than you think. They are strong but not in the way you are using it.
zee , seen a guy take another set of the shorter upper rear shock springs and another set of that slider perch and he clipped the coils down to put on top of the short springs already on there [three spring stack ]get proper ride height with a big motor in chassis
So what do you suggest with the starter
 
There's a pawl thingy like this that screws on the crank I believeView attachment 52725 but that's for a pull start. I'm using a drill start ATM.

The other option is to find some kind of pilot shaft that will screw on ,an find a O-way bearing that is hexed
for a socket ,I use that concept on one of my nitro's that I don't have a pull rope starter for!

They make different types of those ,the other type ,they swing out on the starter it self on to some type
of cog!
 
The other option is to find some kind of pilot shaft that will screw on ,an find a O-way bearing that is hexed
for a socket ,I use that concept on one of my nitro's that I don't have a pull rope starter for!

They make different types of those ,the other type ,they swing out on the starter it self on to some type
of cog!
Can I get maybe a example? I want to see what kind of pilot shaft that u used so I can replicate that .
 
Can I get maybe a example? I want to see what kind of pilot shaft that u used so I can replicate that .

I don't have nothing on hand to take a pic of ,but it is a female thread at one end ,an smooth stud at the other!......LOL
 
I don't have nothing on hand to take a pic of ,but it is a female thread at one end ,an smooth stud at the other!......LOL
So something along the lines of this? NROUND6X30SS Nut Round Coupler 6mm Stainless.jpg
If so, question, how do you keep the one way bearing from sliding off? Or do you remove the bearing after start? Or does this attach to the drill? I'm confused. A picture would really really help of both the engine side and the drill side
 
So something along the lines of this? View attachment 52726
If so, question, how do you keep the one way bearing from sliding off? Or do you remove the bearing after start? Or does this attach to the drill? I'm confused. A picture would really really help of both the engine side and the drill side

It looks something like that ,my O-way usually just falls onto the ground ,but I thought about JB welding it in to
the socket!
I can show pics of the o-way that I use ,an the shaft on the engine ,but you would need a bigger shaft An o-way unit ,
there maybe even one on market already!
 
a machined drive cup larger than crank to bolt up to rotor to take load off crank end and spread the load out. a larger starter cup will also turn over easier, Maybe a large scale open class gas boat starter that can engage the cup on rotor. 12vt , field ready ?
 
It looks something like that ,my O-way usually just falls onto the ground ,but I thought about JB welding it in to
the socket!
I can show pics of the o-way that I use ,an the shaft on the engine ,but you would need a bigger shaft An o-way unit ,
there maybe even one on market already!
Yeah I'd just like a pic so I can upscale. So the shaft with female threads goes on the crank end, and the OWB goes into the socket right?
a machined drive cup larger than crank to bolt up to rotor to take load off crank end and spread the load out. a larger starter cup will also turn over easier, Maybe a large scale open class gas boat starter that can engage the cup on rotor. 12vt , field ready ?
So starter cup that would connect to the flywheel rather than the crank end right?
 
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