DBXL 2.0 Dbxl 2.0 intermediate shaft cup loosing set screws.

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Rep732

Rep732

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So I just want to post an issue i had to fix for a customer and also show that I have my hands on these things just as much as you guys.

So the issue I have come across is the intermediate shaft cup lost 1 out of 2 set screws and 1 backed out which caused it to pretty much be front wheel drive.

I advise anyone with a dbxl 2.0 to immediately pull them out and use red loctite and tighten them down good before you run into this issue. It seems losi used some sort of loctite but not one if yet seen as it resembled dry pudding really it was crusty and lacked any adhesion to the metal.

I took it one step further and drilled into the shaft a little to give the screw a countersunk hole to bite into so it's up to you guys if you choose to do so but at minimum check your intermediate shafts.

also the rig has about 30 minutes total run time and the pull start broke so I added my cable pull start to permanently fix that issue.
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I pulled out all 6 driveshafts on my DBXLe and put a smear of red loctite on the pins also. I always do that to shafts with removeable pins/grubscrews. Holds them good and proper, and they just need a bit of heat to remove
 
Hey. This happened to me. What should I be doing? Tear this whole thing apart and rebuild it? I mean. . . Going after the diffs this weekend for sure.
 
Guys, can you give me the exact name/type of the red loctite you use? What temperature is needed to "soften" the red loctite for removal of the pins/screws? Thanks
 
Red loctite #271. The set screws are larger so you should be able to get them out with little to minimal heat.
 
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@rajul I don't but you can just take the grub screw over to the drill bit case and find one that matches the screws counter sink. The screw size m6x1.0 if I remember right.
 
Knurled cup point M6x1.0x6mm set screw, blue loctite and a little bit of ass on the tightening. let her sit for 24hrs and you should be good to go.
 
Rep732 said:
So I just want to post an issue i had to fix for a customer and also show that I have my hands on these things just as much as you guys.

So the issue I have come across is the intermediate shaft cup lost 1 out of 2 set screws and 1 backed out which caused it to pretty much be front wheel drive.

I advise anyone with a dbxl 2.0 to immediately pull them out and use red loctite and tighten them down good before you run into this issue. It seems losi used some sort of loctite but not one if yet seen as it resembled dry pudding really it was crusty and lacked any adhesion to the metal.

I took it one step further and drilled into the shaft a little to give the screw a countersunk hole to bite into so it's up to you guys if you choose to do so but at minimum check your intermediate shafts.

also the rig has about 30 minutes total run time and the pull start broke so I added my cable pull start to permanently fix that issue.
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Could you please explain what you did to fix the pullstart issue permanently? Would really really really help!
 
Use Para cord instead of the typical pull start cord. Much stronger than the average cord... the cable is ok but the cable digs into the housing after awhile.
 
Rep732 said:
Use Para cord instead of the typical pull start cord. Much stronger than the average cord... the cable is ok but the cable digs into the housing after awhile.
Click to expand...
Okay will check that out thank you so much!
I find it so stupid that car is so expensive and is built by respected losi but it has so much trouble.
Besides Zenoah is a very good brand right ?
But the losi 5ive-t also uses the 32 cc Zenoah engine so that car would technically have the same problem right ? With the pull start?

Reason for asking is I ordered my dbxl 2 days ago and am considering to cancel the order after I read online about so many problems, what’s your take on that and do you have any other advice?
 
Yea all pull starts across the board whether it be yard tools or rc down to nitro cars suffer from broken pull cords. If you can swing the money and want peace off the bat I'd suggest a 5ive t. A few members have successfully made their dbxl 2.0's reliable but when upgrading again they have found issues with fitment to new engines. Speaking from opinion and personal experience the most reliable out of the box dbxl's are the electric ones.
 
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