dbxl delivered last week

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nymike

Well-Known Member
Messages
59
hey guys, getting back into the hobbie, last rc truck i owned was a blackfoot in early 90s, dbxl was ordered off amazon, have a few questions before i take it out for a rip

1-how do i access the battery box? i pulled side panel bottom pins which did almost nothing then removed some screws on side panel except top right corner, that has a nut on inside of panel, help

2-the kit didn’t come with a charger for battery pack(dynamite speed pack 1700mah 6v ni-mh rx) three prong end with only two wires connected
a-is this a good battery or should i upgrade?
b-what charger should i buy?

3-i have 2 stroke dirt bike oil can this be used with dbxl?

4-should i change, modify, check anything on truck before taking on maiden voyage?

thanks guys
mike
 
You need to take the body off first pins on bottom of either side and two pins in the fron hood come out, 4 pins (I think I only use 2) in the rear. Pull the bottoms out and up. May have to pop the front and rear up first.
Battery box is held on by 2 pins. There are tabs in the back of the box that slide into slots to keep it in place l. Remove pins and lift the lid off at an angle till the top comes off. Use what ever oil you want. Synthetic is better then dino oil. Not trying to go into a debate again about oil. If it's good for an air cooled 2 stroke use it.
Eventually you'll want to go lipo for the reciever but that can wait. If hump packs and small lips are all you'll be charging then there are a lot of chargers out there to fit the bill. Most the chargers I would recommend will be over kill for your needs. Someone else will chime in.
Ideally you'll take the whole thing apart and check it out. Diffs to make sure they are full and tight. And the cv/ drive shafts to loctite the drive pins/set screws.
 
#2 check out killerrc.com I'd get either their 6000mah or their 7200mah lipo battery and they're charger forgot the model number 6bac or some sh!t like that.
#3....probably yes. I use redline full synthetic and love it
And 4, yes....check everything. Literally everything.
 
You need to take the body off first pins on bottom of either side and two pins in the fron hood come out, 4 pins (I think I only use 2) in the rear. Pull the bottoms out and up. May have to pop the front and rear up first.
Battery box is held on by 2 pins. There are tabs in the back of the box that slide into slots to keep it in place l. Remove pins and lift the lid off at an angle till the top comes off. Use what ever oil you want. Synthetic is better then dino oil. Not trying to go into a debate again about oil. If it's good for an air cooled 2 stroke use it.
Eventually you'll want to go lipo for the reciever but that can wait. If hump packs and small lips are all you'll be charging then there are a lot of chargers out there to fit the bill. Most the chargers I would recommend will be over kill for your needs. Someone else will chime in.
Ideally you'll take the whole thing apart and check it out. Diffs to make sure they are full and tight. And the cv/ drive shafts to loctite the drive pins/set screws.
so i should start with checking
1-Diffs to make sure they are full and tight.
2-cv/ drive shafts to loctite the drive pins/set screws.
3-?
 
Yeah that's all that really needs done imo. Dbxl are noted for spitting pins out.
Yes front rear and center diffs. Think its 30k front and rear and 100k center from factory. I run 60k 500k 60k f c r . If they are full leave them for now. No need to waste new fluid.
 
Yeah that's all that really needs done imo. Dbxl are noted for spitting pins out.
Yes front rear and center diffs. Think its 30k front and rear and 100k center from factory. I run 60k 500k 60k f c r . If they are full leave them for now. No need to waste new fluid.
60/500 are oil gear oil weights?
 
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