- Thread starter
- #21
Got it. Slicks it is. Thanks gents!
Electric Conversion Project
- Thread starter Mr-Mike
- Start date
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I meant brp lol
Sure you did 
This is going to be insane good luck
This is going to be insane good luck
- Thread starter
- #24
Thank you siblues.
Just waiting on parts so I decided to start some work. I am relocating the steering servo to the front of the chassis. In fact the mount will actually stick out in front of the chassis. The servo was originally amidships just in front of the motor. Still plenty of room but the damn 63mm long servo now necessitated a redesign of the anti-roll setup - the servo will go between the anti-roll bearings. It is incomplete as I still need to make the torsion link and connect the two bearings (or no anti-roll), but here are a couple of pics.
Top pic on the left is the original. The right is my replacement.
As you know, anti-roll rigidity or firmness is normally adjusted by raising or lowering the vertical stabilizer bars - higher is softer (more flex). In addition, my design will have a torsion bar connecting the two bearing on either side. The size of that torsion bar will also determine how much the car rolls. The goal is anti-roll while not negating the independent shocks/suspension. In this case the torsion bar will merely keep everything in place while adjustment will still primarily be at the vertical stabilizers.
Just waiting on parts so I decided to start some work. I am relocating the steering servo to the front of the chassis. In fact the mount will actually stick out in front of the chassis. The servo was originally amidships just in front of the motor. Still plenty of room but the damn 63mm long servo now necessitated a redesign of the anti-roll setup - the servo will go between the anti-roll bearings. It is incomplete as I still need to make the torsion link and connect the two bearings (or no anti-roll), but here are a couple of pics.
Top pic on the left is the original. The right is my replacement.
As you know, anti-roll rigidity or firmness is normally adjusted by raising or lowering the vertical stabilizer bars - higher is softer (more flex). In addition, my design will have a torsion bar connecting the two bearing on either side. The size of that torsion bar will also determine how much the car rolls. The goal is anti-roll while not negating the independent shocks/suspension. In this case the torsion bar will merely keep everything in place while adjustment will still primarily be at the vertical stabilizers.
- Thread starter
- #25
I don't know if anyone is interested anymore but I made a little progress and figured I would do a quick update.
After extensive modifications and some custom fabrication to the FG F1 Competition, I am about 50% through the conversion. Still need to make overhead support braces (to restore rigidity), new brake servo relocate/mount and there’s still the sizeable capacitor pack, receiver & BEC. I also need to paint the body, drill, countersink and slot the pan for the new set-up, lots of soldering, program everything and do a final assembly. And make a video for prosperity - lol.
What has been done is:
Cut and machined the chassis spars (vertical supports) to accommodate the conversion
Extensive re-design of the steering servo and anti-roll mechanics. Also made a steering servo mount and drilled/tapped and contoured the front chassis spars and various other mods and extensions to get everything to ‘clear’ including elevating the whole steering pinion on a custom spacer
Machined an ESC mount - G-11/FR-5 GLASS EPOXY COMPOSITE. It’s nonconductive, very strong and temperature resistant. It destroys carbide end mills though LOL. Truly tougher on cutting end mills and inserts than high carbon steel alloys and titanium
Additional machining to the motor mount
Made battery brackets
Some fine grinding of the gears so the whole drive train spins effortlessly
I feel there’s a few more things but I can’t think of them. With the ESC and motor it has a pair of 7S 6500mAh MaxAmps LiPos. Also a Western Robotics Hercules Super BEC and a Futaba R334SBS receiver. With stock tires and gearing (5.333:1), the 5 wind motor and 14S power, the theoretical top speed is 126mph.
After extensive modifications and some custom fabrication to the FG F1 Competition, I am about 50% through the conversion. Still need to make overhead support braces (to restore rigidity), new brake servo relocate/mount and there’s still the sizeable capacitor pack, receiver & BEC. I also need to paint the body, drill, countersink and slot the pan for the new set-up, lots of soldering, program everything and do a final assembly. And make a video for prosperity - lol.
What has been done is:
Cut and machined the chassis spars (vertical supports) to accommodate the conversion
Extensive re-design of the steering servo and anti-roll mechanics. Also made a steering servo mount and drilled/tapped and contoured the front chassis spars and various other mods and extensions to get everything to ‘clear’ including elevating the whole steering pinion on a custom spacer
Machined an ESC mount - G-11/FR-5 GLASS EPOXY COMPOSITE. It’s nonconductive, very strong and temperature resistant. It destroys carbide end mills though LOL. Truly tougher on cutting end mills and inserts than high carbon steel alloys and titanium
Additional machining to the motor mount
Made battery brackets
Some fine grinding of the gears so the whole drive train spins effortlessly
I feel there’s a few more things but I can’t think of them. With the ESC and motor it has a pair of 7S 6500mAh MaxAmps LiPos. Also a Western Robotics Hercules Super BEC and a Futaba R334SBS receiver. With stock tires and gearing (5.333:1), the 5 wind motor and 14S power, the theoretical top speed is 126mph.
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Looks good mate, and btw were still interested ?
Wow! Very very nice work. Can’t wait for more progress updates.
keep us posted. This is going to be awesome ??
keep us posted. This is going to be awesome ??