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monster

monster

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Its been a while since I post but I'm always in the background lurking. After so much lurking and drooling a lot on all of the FG MT that I've seen here....... I've decided to convert my buggy to MT:2guns: Budget was a little tight so I had to buy new and used parts:blush:

Started a life as Traveller converted to Marder now to MT:cool2:

and it has begun.....with existing rear end and new front suspension.
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new chassis
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started the rear and working on the front
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front end with tuning brakes
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A few days later, more parts on my door step:2guns:

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started working on electrics when I got my DPS 3mm servo tray.
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bought 2nd tuning brakes for the rear too
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Three weeks later here is the result:2guns:

Just waiting for my DDM top end pipe and KRC front bumper bar:cool2:

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looks kill nice job. hows the dps radio tray, fit two steering servos and the radio box in the stock postions no worries ?

ive emailed dps a few times about his mt lower rear aloy arms but no answer.

psr has the ddm top pipe pritty cheap, thats where i got mine, great pipe
 
benckie said:
looks kill nice job. hows the dps radio tray, fit two steering servos and the radio box in the stock postions no worries ?

ive emailed dps a few times about his mt lower rear aloy arms but no answer.

psr has the ddm top pipe pritty cheap, thats where i got mine, great pipe
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Thanks Benckie. The DPS servo tray is a nice piece of work, it's 3mm thick and comes with all the hardware you need. I had a little filing to do to fit my 2 small servos, to tight for my liking but no biggie. I'm using 1 steering servo and 2 servos for brakes and throttle. I used velcro and stuck the radio box on top of my rhino digi 4. The tray comes with posts to mount the radio box on the side if you want.

DPS is still having issues with emails, yours could be going to junk mail. I can ask him if you want regarding the rear lower arms.

My DDM top end is on the way, but thanks anyway:cool2:
 
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Super654 said:
Here's my build-

https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=4198

Took a long time, but finaly getting there, addustble diff and ball drive's coming this week.:)
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I've been reading you thread mate. You'll like those ball drives mate as much as I do. I have mine from the buggy did 22 liters and still no sign of wear:2guns:

Do me a favor and stop all the blings, you sending me broke and to the divorce counselor:boat:...................:clown:
 
Trip said:
What was the cost for the conversion?
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Didn't cost me much as I have the rear end assembly already including the engine and gearing. The tires and side plates were swapped with a guy who's doing the opposite, Bought 2nd hand shocks and shell. So basically, the whole front end is new apart from servo saver, batts and servos.

Can't type the figures coz my wife is sitting next to me:helpsmilie:
 
monster said:
I've been reading you thread mate. You'll like those ball drives mate as much as I do. I have mine from the buggy did 22 liters and still no sign of wear:2guns:

Do me a favor and stop all the blings, you sending me broke and to the divorce counselor:boat:...................:clown:
Click to expand...

LOL...

I only need gear plate to finish now + rear hydro's

My mate say's the ball drive's end up getting grit in and you have to clean them out all the time, have you found this?
 
I have to clean mine before I install the 2nd set of rubber boots and didn't find any dirt. As far as I can remember, I only did a few service of my ball drives to check for grease. When I add grease I used a lot. What happens is as soon as you push the ball drive in the cup, excess grease will go out. You can then use it to fill up the back of ball drive which will prevent dirt going in if in case. Hope I make sense.....LOL
 
Looking good matey...I found that the ball drive gators can split and let dirt in that way, sort of acts like a grinding paste after a while and then the sliding movement becomes notchy, thinking of going back to dog bones myself.
 
Ducky said:
Looking good matey...I found that the ball drive gators can split and let dirt in that way, sort of acts like a grinding paste after a while and then the sliding movement becomes notchy, thinking of going back to dog bones myself.
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Thanks Ducky!

Did you use cable ties? I didn't use use them coz them get jammed between the diff cup and lower arm. I'm using old 8mm rose joint cut in half then installed it between the boots. This will prevent the boots from shifting and keep the boots where they should be:cool2:
 
monster said:
Thanks Benckie. The DPS servo tray is a nice piece of work, it's 3mm thick and comes with all the hardware you need. I had a little filing to do to fit my 2 small servos, to tight for my liking but no biggie. I'm using 1 steering servo and 2 servos for brakes and throttle. I used velcro and stuck the radio box on top of my rhino digi 4. The tray comes with posts to mount the radio box on the side if you want.

DPS is still having issues with emails, yours could be going to junk mail. I can ask him if you want regarding the rear lower arms.

My DDM top end is on the way, but thanks anyway:cool2:
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thank would be great, as i did has his number along time ago, but cant find it

im after these

http://www.danielspitstop.com.au/menuDetails.aspx?MID=52
 
I know which one you after. I have mine from the buggy and still going strong apart from pitting. I'll let Kris know and will get back to you mate.

I sent him an email. You can also try again sending to this [email protected]
 
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Hey fellas,

My DDM top end pipe should be here next week:2guns:. Is there anything I need to know apart from the mounting hole?

Also, how far does seat from the shell?

Thanks you all in advance:)
 
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the mounting hole was fine im mine just the center bar got melted as ive said befor, they clear the body well, but will touch with a good stack.

ive read on hear and i can see on mine they would be best to be ran with a wheelie bar or a rear bumper to protect them against rear impacts from crashed roll overs and bad jump landings
 
benckie said:
the mounting hole was fine im mine just the center bar got melted as ive said befor, they clear the body well, but will touch with a good stack.

ive read on hear and i can see on mine they would be best to be ran with a wheelie bar or a rear bumper to protect them against rear impacts from crashed roll overs and bad jump landings
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Thanks mate. I'll be making my own bumper or wheelie bar on my days off. Been toying around for a while but can't decide the design until I get my pipe.
 
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