Firehammer MT Shocks

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Back with Dino Ciccarelli and Caesar Maniago baby. I was a Goalie like John Casey... good for 1 bad goal but could play a great game otherwise. 10 years on the same team, 3 div 1 championships (I even got a playoff mvp) but only 4 shut outs lol.

ya well Canucks blew a 3-1 lead to lose to the lowest scoring team in the league. Man it's getting painful to watch hockey lately... see why I watch other teams? I hope we get a non trap style hockey coach soon... I'd rather see my team lose and play exciting hockey

The Flyers have a killer team this year. Your wife must be happy after all the years of strife there. I'm taking the Firehammer and Redcat out today to tune the motors up and test these shocks out, Redcat I fired yesterday with the new head kit and needs a break in/tune. Going to try the quick method that was posted on this forum. I can't go through 3 tanks half throttle again... it takes too long... never did anything like that with my garden equipment anyway hehe
 
I got out of hockey because the Bruins sucks for so many year. My brother in law used to get season tickets but stoped because he was sick of watching them getting beat up like baby seals.

Great job with shock vid. Please post the road test result. DTX still have my shocks. If I knew they was going to lollygag on it, I wouldn't have send it in.

I broke in my FireHammer using the wide open throtle (WOT) method. I ride out normal medium and WOT back (couple seconds max). I also run half a tank and 30 min cool down in between. 25:1 oil ratio for first 2 tank of gas is crucial too. I've spent countless hours researching this method and many pro agree that you need to brake in using WOT to seat the piston ring.

My car runs great, it start after a couple pulls and prety fast with stock pipe.
 
steel...Break in method is best for what you done...Will seat the ring the best..
you want more power...get a tune pipe...AkASlawhammer
 
Ya, I've read that tune pipe is the best ban for the buck as far as upgade goes. If I upgrade the pipe, then i have to beef up the drive train to take the power (engine mount, dif housing, metal spur and pinion gear) . I also read that you have some good idea on stiffing up the chassy too.

I don't have the funding to do all that now, but i know that count on you guys when the time come.
 
Steel...The first up grade I would do ..If you have not yet is to get the modified kill switch for the engine...This has to be used on a 3 channel radio system...
Second ..I would do is the Engine Screen Mod...& Alloy engine mounts...Lrg & Sm
If you have some scrap iron the chassie would be a good thing ..since you have the engine out ..for the screen mod..
Third..I would do is replace the pinion wit a 19 tooth steel gear..leave the spur gear stock.
Thea you can do as you wish later on for any more up grades...AKASlawhammer
 
You don't think the stock kill switch is good? It does not shut of the engine but apply the brake. They seem to work for me. I here people complaint that they forget to turn off the reciever and toast the servo.
 
Steel...With the stock fail safe system..You set to apply brake and throttle in neutral positions..and the engine is still running....What happens if your truck battery goes dead?
0r the Trans battery goes low power?Or even worse you loose signal from Trans too truck Rec?...Tell me what your engine is doing?Still running..Did it go to full throttle & have a run away?......With a Modified Pico Kill Switch....Low battery=Kill engine Loose signal=Kill engine....Turn off the Trans= Kill engine...or use the 3rd channel to Kill the engine....
Just some thing to think about......
Now as to frying the servo...you can fry servo's if you just turn off the Trans and forget the Rec or truck.. On/OFF switch..I go so far as to shut the rec battery switch off ..Plus unhook the battery..then turn off my Trans....My Rec battery switch could get turned on during transit ..to the place I run..But as added protection..I unhook the battery.....AKASlawhammer
 
Slaw- Thanks, you are right. If i lost power to the receiver, i'm pork. I need an engine kill switch. I'll do some diging in the Baja forums.

I also need to learn some good shutdown habit from you guys too.
 
Steelrodeo said:
Slaw- Thanks, you are right. If i lost power to the receiver, i'm pork. I need an engine kill switch. I'll do some diging in the Baja forums.

I also need to learn some good shutdown habit from you guys too.
Click to expand...

Hey Steel,

I just ordered one from www.rckillswitch.com, pb2thmax over in the Baja forum mods and sells them. I had a runaway a couple weeks ago due to a dead battery. It didn't stop, stuck on full throttle, shot down the street and hit a bush in someone's front yard.....no damage to anything, but it scared the hell out of me. I won't run them again without one.
 
I was tuning someone's baja here in front of my house and the carb linkage stuck open. I had the brakes on full and couldn't stop. I used the neighbour's garage door and had to repair it after (I was coming up the driveway when the carb stuck open)... I wouldn't even drive mine until I added kill switches.

I ordered some stuff from ddm through vancouverhobbies and got one of the picco's for 2 of my 5th's. my 3rd one is in with my semi tires for the fh. Best upgrade I have made and very simple to install

no testing done yet bloody snow is coming down again. I've got ufc 94 to watch so will be ripping the motor out of the fh to do the screen mod. Bench test of the shocks is good. 3 days and no leaking. I think the super thick oil helps too. might try making a chassis brace as well (thanks Slaw)

I tried to make a carry handle for my semi last night with that nylon/molybdinum rod I have... got it all heated with heat gun and bent to shape, measured etc etc... looked good. I was just about to drill and tap and for some stupid reason decided to test it for strength.... grrr, snapped it where it was heated. so heating weakens this material. now I am back to digging through the shop for those aluminum chunks I hid away

Canucks set a new record yesterday, most home losses in a row... BTB is probably giggling right now since it was the Wild that did it. Sucks when your 4th line is your best line
 
Might be good now and then. Just wish Jacq would get a bit more offensive. We are both excited for the Flyers this year.

A failsafe is always needed. There are so many problems not covered by the stock fail safes.

Check out this small video of my servo going nuts. This started because of a cold solder joint in a servo heating and shorting. My MT was jolting throttle on and off wildly. I thought it was from my radio going crazy until I investigated it. Covered by warranty but the damage would not of been.

Servo failure
 
Thanks guys,

I just bough an un-modify Pico Swith from the MFG. It is only $21 bucks so you can't go wrong. I'm prety good with the iron so i will attemp to modifide it myself. I also plan to install a Bi-color LED that will turn green to start and turn red if it is off or lost signal. I also have some rubber dip to make it completly water proof too.

If buy it my with my option, it would cost me over $90.
 
Pipeous - I would try coper pipe for carring handle. They are easy to find at the local hardware store. Considering the cold, plastic is prone to break at low temp.
 
Hi guys,
I got the shock back last week. I had brand new shock shaft and body. I rebuild it with FG o-ring and stiffing up the piston like Pip suggested (great video). It looks good until I ran a tank thru it. Essentially I wasted 3 weeks for DTX to process the warranty. The rear LST rear shock I install is solid. Not even a drop of oil after 3 tanks of gas.

Back to the drawing board.

While I waited for the shock, I install a Pico kill switch with remote LED I got from RadioShack. I also added LED lights for night driving but I find it useful during the day too because I can see the lights 100 yards away.

I also made a tutorial on adding remote LED to a modified Pico Switch for Chris. PM me your email and I will send it to you. The file is big with many detail photos.
 

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  • Rear LST shock.webp
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Steelrodeo said:
Hi guys,
I got the shock back last week. I had brand new shock shaft and body. I rebuild it with FG o-ring and stiffing up the piston like Pip suggested (great video). It looks good until I ran a tank thru it. Essentially I wasted 3 weeks for DTX to process the warranty. The rear LST rear shock I install is solid. Not even a drop of oil after 3 tanks of gas.

Back to the drawing board.

While I waited for the shock, I install a Pico kill switch with remote LED I got from RadioShack. I also added LED lights for night driving but I find it useful during the day too because I can see the lights 100 yards away.

I also made a tutorial on adding remote LED to a modified Pico Switch for Chris. PM me your email and I will send it to you. The file is big with many detail photos.
Click to expand...

Have you jumped your truck a lot with the LST shocks on it? I'm curious. I put one on mine and thought it might be good, but then changed my mind because I wasn't certain if the shaft was going to bend if I beat the hell out of it. Looking up the price of shock shafts for an LST, they run the same as the Duratrax shafts so I guess it couldn't hurt to try it.

I like the LED lights, they look great! Nice and bright.
 
CSP-I have made many jumps with the LST shock and it is solid and firm. This is an upgrade shock from an 1/8 scale Losi stadium truck. The standard shaft OD for the LST is 5mm. Firehammer and FG shock shaft OD is only 4mm. I'm pretty sure it will hold up. The LST body is 25.4mm OD vs. 16mm for the FH, FG and other. Bigger body = More oil and better damping.

I do not recommend the LST shock upgrade unless you are into heavy modifying. I had to modify top and bottom shock mount for the shock to fit and work properly. This is not a bolt on upgrade. In hind site, I would only buy the stock LST without the reservoir. I don’t know if I can fit tune pipe with these shocks.

Overall the LST shock upgrade is great. The truck is very stable when I corner at fast speed. At high speed over the grass I can see the front end bobble but the rear is steady.

You can see the different between the sizes. Let me know if you're into the challenge. I'm trying to make a video so everyone can see the huge different between the shocks.
 

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  • Compare shock.webp
    Compare shock.webp
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Steelrodeo said:
CSP-I have made many jumps with the LST shock and it is solid and firm. This is an upgrade shock from an 1/8 scale Losi stadium truck. The standard shaft OD for the LST is 5mm. Firehammer and FG shock shaft OD is only 4mm. I'm pretty sure it will hold up. The LST body is 25.4mm OD vs. 16mm for the FH, FG and other. Bigger body = More oil and better damping.

I do not recommend the LST shock upgrade unless you are into heavy modifying. I had to modify top and bottom shock mount for the shock to fit and work properly. This is not a bolt on upgrade. In hind site, I would only buy the stock LST without the reservoir. I don’t know if I can fit tune pipe with these shocks.

Overall the LST shock upgrade is great. The truck is very stable when I corner at fast speed. At high speed over the grass I can see the front end bobble but the rear is steady.

You can see the different between the sizes. Let me know if you're into the challenge. I'm trying to make a video so everyone can see the huge different between the shocks.
Click to expand...

I have the shocks without the reservoirs. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend if I have some free time and see how it looks. I'd love to have them all the way around, but the front I think would be a problem due to their size.
 
I have the shocks without the reservoirs. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend if I have some free time and see how it looks. I'd love to have them all the way around, but the front I think would be a problem due to their size.
Click to expand...

Cool, I think they will fit in the back without any mods. but it might be too long for the front.

Can you try it in the front and let me know? Also see if the chassy bottom out before the shock. I saw some on ebay for $25 bucks/each and would consider buying it, if it fits.
 
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