fs racing 4x4

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hello another noob question, When I go full throttle the rmp rapidly decreases and if I hold full throttle for more then half of a second, the engine shuts off. I my setting for my GP290 is 1 and 1/4 L and 1 and 3/8 high (which is the recommanded setting I saw on some forum). Is it because my fuel tanks is not completely sealed?
 
no, these actually are vented fuel tanks.

sounds a bit strange. can you give a bit more info.
like does it run ok if you squeeze the throatle slowly, thus bringing up the rpms slow? can you feather the throatle to get it up to higher rpms?


what motor/exhaust pipe/ carb do you have.
how old?
any prior issues?
 
Well, I have a new GP290 and the carb came with the engine, about 1/15 of a gallon through it so far. And I have one of those black box looking stock pipe from FS racing. After a certain point squeezing the throttle. The engine will sound like it's sufficating and eventually stall. Would it help if I post a video?
 
ive not had a chance to test drive mine yet but have started it in one go no problems yet time will tell
i know their is a post here that read about tuning the carb and it worked for me ill have a look for you and send ok
 
if it gets to a point and then dies as you give it more throttle it could be too lean, are you sure the H and L needles are correct and you haven't got them mixed up, they have the letters stamped next to the adjusting screws. If in doubt richen it up a little and see what happens, the worst it will do is foul a plug.
 
clone

don't know anyone with one off these but a friend knows a guy that got a fg clone (not carson) and the plastic was like cheese he ended up spending loads on fg bits for it and in the end he might as well of got a fg,we all know what mcd evo 2 ball joints are like on the lower arms so what are thes going to be like,pay the extra and get an evo3 mcd
 
don't know anyone with one off these but a friend knows a guy that got a fg clone (not carson) and the plastic was like cheese he ended up spending loads on fg bits for it and in the end he might as well of got a fg,we all know what mcd evo 2 ball joints are like on the lower arms so what are thes going to be like,pay the extra and get an evo3 mcd
 
mmx3se said:
That would be great. Sickboy. Are you planning to change the engine anytime soon for your FS monster?
Click to expand...

first take the spark plug out then turn the car upside down pull the pull start till all the petrol is out of the engine put the spark plug back in and make sure the choke is in the off position

then try the high and low needles on the carb turn them all the way in don't over do it
then turn them out 1 3/4 of turn it worked for me
hope that helps

i don't know yet but ive got a reserve in my fg baja first things first if the fs engine holds up then im happy its only for fun and bashin but it does sound a bit boggy im going to give it a test drive when the servos come and try and set the carb up the best i can maybes will buy one of those hpi 8000rpm springs that every ones going on about

oh also just noted that these are 4 bolt engines like the marina engines so that's also interesting because ive heard about them in posts from dark soul not to sure if it is what for me though
 
Well, the engine that fits Baja will direct fit the FS racing, in exception to the carb. The throttle is on the opposite side of the FS racing truck. So I is turn the carb 180 degree upside down and then connect it to the string that connects on the throttle servo. Could that be why my engine is not working properly? Does the carb still work inverted?
 
Sickboy,
It is my car; I believe you are familiar with my mods on it.
-Alloy servo tray (made myself)
-Alloy rear tank mounts (made myself)
-3 Hitec HS-5745MG servos (went with the double servo steering)
-Alloy center diff assembly
-Changed to sealed bearing thought
-MCD gas cap (example of fit and finish)
-Specktrum radio gear
-4200 receiver pack
-Steel MCD drive gears
-8000 RPM high response clutch
-DDM 29cc stuffed crank engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipjXy0kXo0g
 
Nice car, what carb do you have? I have a GP290 and I am having a lot of problem connecting the carb to the throttle servo. I currently use a nylon string to pull it (which really sucks)
 
pwaicon said:
Sickboy,
It is my car; I believe you are familiar with my mods on it.
-Alloy servo tray (made myself)
-Alloy rear tank mounts (made myself)
-3 Hitec HS-5745MG servos (went with the double servo steering)
-Alloy center diff assembly
-Changed to sealed bearing thought
-MCD gas cap (example of fit and finish)
-Specktrum radio gear
-4200 receiver pack
-Steel MCD drive gears
-8000 RPM high response clutch
-DDM 29cc stuffed crank engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipjXy0kXo0g
Click to expand...

oops ok anyway sounds like your center drive shaft cups are loose front or back or am i wrong
 
mmx3se:
I have a CY29RC 3.5+ HP Engine w/ Stuffed Crank I purchased from DDM. The carb on it is a Walbro WT-668. I used the stock throttle set up and it worked just fine. If you are having problems connecting the throttle linkage to your carb, you might have a scooter throttle setup on the carb. My engine actually had the scooter setup and I needed to change it over to the RC setup. That might be the problem you are having.
http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product1612.html

sickboy:
No, the drive cups were not loose. If you are referring to the rattling sound, that would be the brake system. I lost the center brake pad before I started filming; it just magically disappeared and didn’t have any brakes in the video. The noise was actually the two metal disk’s bouncing of each other.
 
ok that sorts that out anyway im going into the shed and take the car to bits again check all the bearings and so on geting ready for the big test when done will post vid ok
 
Sounds good, can’t wait to see the video. Are you having problems with the bearings? When I first took the car apart the stock bearings didn’t impress me so I installed sealed bearings through out the car and so far no issues. However, I have noticed my gear plate is starting to get a little slop around the bearings. Let me know if you see any slop with your bearings in your gear plate when you take apart you truck. I think I will have to get an alloy gear plate in the near future; as I feel another plastic one will just do the same thing.
 
yep my bearings weren't up to scratch either so changed the ones for the wheel hubs sealed already but didn't last long i think i was to eager to go out and play lol and not enough time for the lock to set. ive just took the car apart and the diff bearings were ok so ill wait and see how that goes just need to get some real good sealed bearings for the wheel hubs f + b preferably heat resistant better quality than the fg ones so ive bean told.they are available when i find them ill let ye know also shimmed the center drive shaft cups f+b i wasn't to happy with the play in-between the cup and bearings so thats done the only thing left for me now is how to get the bloody motor off all the screws are out now apart from one irritating one that wont come out ive tried to drill it out heat it up but nothing seams to work the screws are very very hard went threw 4 drill bits and still no-go :blink::helpsmilie:
 
just got my buggy today......they call it the spiderman:)

the advertising on the side of the box says its max rpm is 19500...ide like to see that:blush:

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