help! I'm new no this, does it make sense to buy a 1/5 scale?

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gat0zz

Active Member
Messages
36
Location
portugal
hello people I need a great help, I would like to know information about advantages and disadvantages of buggy 1/8 nitro or buggy type baja 5b 1/5. I want to invest in the 1/5 scale (since I already have a nitro with 2 months) but since I am new to this I am afraid to buy without knowing.

- which is the most reliable / least problematic.

- What is the best at acceleration and tip speed? (car original).

- maintenance more expensive and which is more "easy to learn"?

- availability of parts in portugal / europe if you know ...

- is engine break-in and tuning of the 1/5 easier to do?

- batteries of the receiver and transmitter, of origin what is the autonomy of the majority in the bajas ?

- a purchase of used baja what is the most critical things we have to see/be smart?

- what is the best percentage of gasoline and oil for a good mixture so as not to damage anything.(in bajas )

is it still worth buying a bajas for asphalt and track and go equipping it for better performances?

any help, opinion, criticism is welcome please
wink.gif


sorry for bad english...
 
yes I know, but I would like to buy BAJA and I would like to know certain things before buying ?
and i am a newbie ?
 
I bought my first 1/5 scale last year having never owned 1 and the last time I had an rc was 30 years back. Break in is easy. Bajas are common spares are easy to get. Here there is loads of info lots people to help If you get stuck. Buy 1/5 they are awesome (y)
by chance I was a bit impressed because I did several post in forums in Brazil and in other countries and so far no one answered me and here in this forum you answered soon. Thank you so much, my friend.
- but since I am new on this world, do you know what are the big/small problems that can occur in BAJA 5B models in the early times?
Is there some difference in wear or something like driving onroad and off road?
 
I would say the only downside to 1/5 scale is a place to bash/race. So if your into racing be sure to check and see if there's a track nearby. You can usually find a 1/8 scale track within an hour or two of driving. For me a 1/5 scale track would be 4+ making it a weekend event instead of a day event with the 1/8 scale.
A good 1/8 nitro buggy cost the same as a 1/5 scale ........go big or go home :oops::LOL::ROFLMAO:(y)
But if your into just bashing and you have the room to run then I would go as my man Doug says??
 
I've got a place to drive(bash), there's an off road track near my house. but I also like to drive onroad and my doubt is for example if on road(with onroad tires) has more wear and tear than off road track. I agree with you 1/5 scale for events at the weekend is amazing.?
 
Whether 1/8 scale or 1/5 scale on/off road, there will be maintenance that needs to be done. Replacement of tires, checking diffs, oiling bearings, engine overhauls(nitro or gasser), etc. are part of the game. So to say which one would require more maintenance would be almost impossible since we don't know your driving skills or the amount of time you want to drive the RC. Long story short maintenance is part of the hobby.
 
I understand, I just thought that for example onroad rc had more wear due to original plastic parts. about the topics that I put in the first post I liked to ask something else .. in the nitro buggy people advise not to send the full throttle more than four or five seconds in a row so as not to damage the engine. in these models of gas scale 1/5 is equal or can you keep full throttle a few more seconds?
 
Once the engine is properly broken in you can hold both nitro and gassers full throttle for more than 4-5 seconds. Search YouTube for both nitro and gas track runs. The straights on the tracks are more than 4-5 sec long and if you search for any basher runs you will see that they can full throttle for some time. ??And again I STRESS, the engine needs to be broken in properly before long full throttle passes.
 
For Bajas, parts are literally everywhere, so I don't think that would be your issue. They are normally very reliable unless u get a not so good engine like a Km or Rv, zenoahs are reliable, powerful and cheap ? break in is pretty easy, just be patient and don't go full throttle and all of that, now tuning, tuning is pretty tricky as you have to know the sounds and smoke but when you get a hang of it, it's kinda easy. Batteries, you can get a cheaper NIMH battery like I'm using, theyre great just alittle heavy, jf you m have the experience I'd go with LIPO or LIFE, but I think this is your first rc? If so I'd just stick with the basic NIMH for now ?. For radios, most people run Futaba's, some run spectrum (not very many though because of the avc thing), there's not really a brand that everyone has, but the most common brand is Futaba is that makes sense. I myself runs a Airtronics/Sanwa MXv, it's been great for me, never had any issues at all. It might be harder to find though so then I'd get a Futaba ?. For the gas/oil mix, I run 24:1 during break in for 1 gallon of gas, then 28:1 AFTER break in and for the rest of the engine's life. On the road thing, bajas can be good vehicles for on road and probably some of the most common but there's MCD's and FG or HARM on road cars that are better at road racing than bajas, but those are extremely expensive. So if your on a smaller budget, i'd stick with a baja for now ? the upgrades I'd buy for a Baja, aluminum clutch Carrier, some proper Madmax or Hostile road tires, upgrade the throttle and steering servo, upgrade the air filter for a smaller short stack filter with a outerwear, exhuast maybe, and a gas tank vent. For the gas tank vent, you can buy a vent from a dirt bike or motorcycle shop that should do the trick, buy a small m3 barb fitting like this
s-l640.jpg
M3 Threads (Elbow Fittings) copy.jpg
30-Pieces-5-2mm-Air-Pneumatic-Hose-to-M3-Male-Mini-Barb-Fitting-Brass.jpg
Then get some fuel line, drill a small 2.5,3mm hole into the tank, screw the barb fitting jn there, I'd use some gas proof sealent on the fitting like Seel-all or something, the. Put a fuel line on the barb fitting, then the vent on the fuel line with the barb fitting and you should have something like this
IMG_20190313_140852.jpg
 
Lot of good advice guys. But you might of scared him away.There is a great group of guys here to help you.my self included just go for it.I still run nitro most the time it costs me more money .Then the big girls. Everything has it's own fun.Just use good oil and a kill switch and will be fine you will learn the rest as you go
 
For Bajas, parts are literally everywhere, so I don't think that would be your issue. They are normally very reliable unless u get a not so good engine like a Km or Rv, zenoahs are reliable, powerful and cheap ? break in is pretty easy, just be patient and don't go full throttle and all of that, now tuning, tuning is pretty tricky as you have to know the sounds and smoke but when you get a hang of it, it's kinda easy. Batteries, you can get a cheaper NIMH battery like I'm using, theyre great just alittle heavy, jf you m have the experience I'd go with LIPO or LIFE, but I think this is your first rc? If so I'd just stick with the basic NIMH for now ?. For radios, most people run Futaba's, some run spectrum (not very many though because of the avc thing), there's not really a brand that everyone has, but the most common brand is Futaba is that makes sense. I myself runs a Airtronics/Sanwa MXv, it's been great for me, never had any issues at all. It might be harder to find though so then I'd get a Futaba ?. For the gas/oil mix, I run 24:1 during break in for 1 gallon of gas, then 28:1 AFTER break in and for the rest of the engine's life. On the road thing, bajas can be good vehicles for on road and probably some of the most common but there's MCD's and FG or HARM on road cars that are better at road racing than bajas, but those are extremely expensive. So if your on a smaller budget, i'd stick with a baja for now ? the upgrades I'd buy for a Baja, aluminum clutch Carrier, some proper Madmax or Hostile road tires, upgrade the throttle and steering servo, upgrade the air filter for a smaller short stack filter with a outerwear, exhuast maybe, and a gas tank vent. For the gas tank vent, you can buy a vent from a dirt bike or motorcycle shop that should do the trick, buy a small m3 barb fitting like this
View attachment 50862
View attachment 50863
View attachment 50864
Then get some fuel line, drill a small 2.5,3mm hole into the tank, screw the barb fitting jn there, I'd use some gas proof sealent on the fitting like Seel-all or something, the. Put a fuel line on the barb fitting, then the vent on the fuel line with the barb fitting and you should have something like this
View attachment 50865

when i buy i will buy hpi, its good mark?
the original servos are to muco bad? why vent to gás tank?
thanks a lot for the info guys ?
all advices are welcome, so , tell me ?
Once the engine is properly broken in you can hold both nitro and gassers full throttle for more than 4-5 seconds. Search YouTube for both nitro and gas track runs. The straights on the tracks are more than 4-5 sec long and if you search for any basher runs you will see that they can full throttle for some time. ??And again I STRESS, the engine needs to be broken in properly before long full throttle passes.
I thought the nitros did not last that long. on gas videos on youtube videos that walk good time with throttle at maximum ..
 
Last edited:
when i buy i will buy hpi, its good mark?
the original servos are to muco bad? why vent to gás tank?
thanks a lot for the info guys ?
all advices are welcome, so , tell me ?
HPI is great but no matter what brand, the servos they come with aren't very good. But I'd first see how you like it, then upgrade the servos. The reason why a gas tank vent is a great thing is because, with a Baja, sometimes after a little while like 10-15 maybe more minutes, the engine Will shut off because you will loose fuel because there is too much pressure in the tank and you will have to remove the fuel cap, and re prime then engine bthen restart it, it's kind of annoying, but with a vent, it will that pressure and your engine will continue to run
 
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