Home Brew Tuned Exhaust/Spark Plug Guard

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Installed a new version plastic 1:1 belt drive cover today. It fit behind the splash guard without a problem, and appears much sturdier then the earlier version. I'll find out, belts do break. The old belt drive covers come apart when that happens. Anyway mine did, it looked like a grenade went off inside when a belt broke while accelerating.

But, untill a stamped metal belt drive cover is introduced, I think keeping a spare on hand is a good idea when you run off road as I do. Unprotected, belts don't last long off road.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I run purely off-road and my belt has held up without any issues. I'm not using as much hp as you but I'm not stock
 
I run a 7.2 hp FMLR with a 9000rpm clutch. I have yet to break my original.

Not sure why you're eat'n belts.
 
RCDAD said:
I run a 7.2 hp FMLR with a 9000rpm clutch. I have yet to break my original. Not sure why you're eat'n belts.
Click to expand...
Easy. Sand and rocks. To fit the belt drive I needed to cut a hole in the front of the splash guard on the DR, so the right front tire throws everything right at the belt. Which is why I wasn't happy when the original cover came apart when a belt broke. Got to have one to run in the dirt here unless you don't mind replacing belts all the time. The pulley kit I ordered as a spare has the heavier cover is part of the kit. I also have a carbon fiber splash guard extender on order, hopefully that and a new splash guard without a cut out will protect the belt drive more. The front of both splash guards are pretty beat up from the rocks the front Trenchers throw, and I know from personal experience, after getting hit, the rocks coming off the tires can be fairly good sized! :eek:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I should say I run a body also. I still get the chassis full of dirt, dust and grass, but it would be more protected than the DR setup.
 
Oh yes, run with a body on a DR, keeps things away form the engine and carb. I only run without one after I've done some work on it and want to check things as I run. My video's are more then entertainment, I review them to see if there is something I've missed, or can change to get the DR to run better. Or where I need to do something different. Learned to do this during a career in Naval Aviation. Aviator's are always reviewing vids, inflight data, anything we can. Inflight and in the "simulator". Then the roundtable discussions (debrief) begin. Those can be "fun". :)
 
For the last week, it's been Spring Time in the Desert. Which means high winds, blowing dust and yuck. Try getting a shopping cart across the grocery store parking lot in 50+ mph gusts sometime!

Supposed to calm down by Wednesday.

I hope!
 
I was in boron this past weekend to see my mom when driving to vegas. I couldn't keep the damn car going straight it was windy. I don't miss those winds at all.
 
creepingcharlie said:
I was in boron this past weekend to see my mom when driving to vegas. I couldn't keep the damn car going straight it was windy. I don't miss those winds at all.
Click to expand...
Living here, driving in the winds is normal. Might be why people who live here like larger cars and pickups! :) What ISN'T normal is blowing dust and sand with ZERO visibility in Rosamond. First time we've had that crap at the house in the 10 years we've lived here. Needed to pull a tree off the brick wall in back of the house when it was over.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow. A sand storm. I never seen one of those down there. I know its windy all the time. As a kid live in the San bernordino area we had the Santa Ana winds which where no joke. I remember walking to school against the wind. It was horrible. If you wasn't carefull it would blow you over and that was in the city.
 
While I was at the Sand Drags I talked to Sean from OBR about carbs, and how a 990 is a PITA. Sean mentioned that a 660 carb, with the choke, might be better for me. The 990 is great, but tuning to start, then leaning, if you're on a track where you start just before you run and shut down after the run, that doesn't work. So a 660 is on the engine now.

All I need now is the engine adapter for the Killer RC Power Start. My protype starter hex stripped out before I could run at the Sand Drags. Unlike the production run, mine didn't have the bore all the way through, and with dirt packing in, it went Bye Bye, after lots or runs. Bad timing to die when it did.
 
Back
Top