Ignition coil proper install

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niz55

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I am having little trouble installing the coil. I am in the process of installing the kill switch. I took off the coil and reinstalled and now the flywheel has resistance turning. I did install both plastic washers on the coil.

What is the gap between the coil and the flywheel? Seems like the coil is sitting too low and grinding against the flywheel.

Thanks
 
use a nice clean business card. That is the perfect thickness and thats how I install my coils..just do yourself a favor make sure to press down on the coil toward the card and flywheel so it doesn't move while your tightening it. And don't forget the isolator bushings inbetween the head and coil
 
Rep732 said:
use a nice clean business card. That is the perfect thickness and thats how I install my coils..just do yourself a favor make sure to press down on the coil toward the card and flywheel so it doesn't move while your tightening it. And don't forget the isolator bushings inbetween the head and coil
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Perfect @Rep732 . Just make sure the magnets are under the coil when you do this??
 
I would think the flywheel would be the same height all the way around? Whats the reasoning for the magnets to be under the coil when setting gap?
 
Im pretty sure they turn the outside of the flywheel after the mags are installed , otherwise it would be a female dog to get them seated all the time , most likely they are cast into it , then turn it in a final process. ???
 
buzzkill said:
Im pretty sure they turn the outside of the flywheel after the mags are installed , otherwise it would be a female dog to get them seated all the time , most likely they are cast into it , then turn it in a final process. ???
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I've always have noticed them to be slightly higher than the rest of the flywheel but you can do as you please. I also only use the correct feeler gauge for it but didnt want to state that earlier. Whole other can of worms. Just going off my experiences brotha.
 
crucialRC said:
I've always have noticed them to be slightly higher than the rest of the flywheel but you can do as you please. I also only use the correct feeler gauge for it but didnt want to state that earlier. Whole other can of worms. Just going off my experiences brotha.
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All good ! I would think that casting the mags in would be the lowest cost to MFG , need to ask a maker lol ?? so what is the gap ? .035" Biz card is about 0.040" thick
 
I agree with all of the above. Honestly if it starts and sounds,runs good that means I didn't mess up the air gap that bad...after all these are just rc cars were not sending these on moon missions
 
buzzkill said:
Biz card =FREE LOL !!!
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??
Rep732 said:
I agree with all of the above. Honestly if it starts and sounds,runs good that means I didn't mess up the air gap that bad...after all these are just rc cars were not sending these on moon missions
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True but I got my habits from building 1:1 streetrods where .001" fuk up could mean devastation or a rebuild. I've learned to do it right the 1st time. Cause it's always cheaper to do it right the 1st time than doing it twice. Torque wrench and feeler gauges are my way of building. It can be done the other way but not my cup of tea.
 
@crucialRC I understand the habits trust me I do... i work on peterbilts that cost 250k dollars... when I work on them I'm on point. Everything has a tolerance to a degree from setting valves to using plastigage to measure bearing tolerances. Im sure if we really got down to the air gap it would be something similar to a +/-.... i see some guys take rc extremely serious and thats awesome but to me when we start getting super complex on air gap for a spark plug it starts losing its fun for me
 
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