J’s dirty 30

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It appears the be an alignment pin for the clutch carrier housing.
All the internal components look good, free of scarring, the ring looks fine and isn’t stuck, plenty of lube coming through here.
These gaskets are probably not reusable but I’m going to use them anyway. I cleaned up the surfaces and excess oil from the gaskets and squished it all back together. If I can get closer to a running engine while some gaskets are inbound then that’s ok with me, we’re sill troubleshooting at this point either way.
Rep732 said:
Appears to be a roller bearing to either the wrist pin bearing or the crank side rod bearing. Or a locating Dowel, internal or external did you find it?
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I thought it was at first too
 
Seandonato73 said:
By rtv, he means moto seal, yamabond three bond, dirko ht etc. Something that won't break down with the gas and oil.
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Yep I figured. I did try it and had the same results, fearlessRC told me to send it back so they can look at it. I have the engine out of the truck right now, I just have some parts to remove from it first. We will see what happens.
 
Rep732 said:
@Dirty30J the issue with the plastic version is it will warp. Your putting a bandaid on a situation and eventually it will come back but this time it will be in the form of an air leak.
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I'm glad you posted this. Mine started acting the fool today. Chasing the tune. Had to keep richening the high needle. I pulled the body off and while it was idling to cool down I hit it with some air to blow off the grass n dust. Soon as I hit the intake area it almost quit then immediately recovered. I repeated it and it did it again. Intake warping with only5-6 tanks of running. New aluminum set up from DDM on the way.
 
Rep732 said:
@jeepfreak1972 I didn't like the ddm one at all with the thin nylon insulators. Get the one from obr and you'll never have to worry again
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https://www.ddmracing.com/zenoah-585727001-g320rc-insulator-manifold-billet-aluminum-ddm

This is what I ordered before posting. Lol. Is the V2 better than the one you have experience with?
https://oneillbrothers.com/collecti...br-g320-billet-intake-manifold-fits-32cc-34cc

This is the OBR you are referring to I assume. Cheaper too.
 
@jeepfreak1972 I had v1 but those insulators seemed to never let the bolts get tight without starting to squish the nylon. The obr one has a thicker insulator and the bolts feel more secure when torqued and they don't ever loosen
 
I'll see how it goes. I assume I'll need gaskets as well? As in, the DDM isolators are not also gaskets. They don't show new ones in the DDM add. Obr does.
 
@jeepfreak1972 the ddm one is just no good, they really should be using gaskets along with some sort of composite like delrin or nylon. I too tried using what was included when I first started out here and it wiped out one of my engines. Spoke to ddm and i got a top end out of the deal. Obr is gasket to head then billet insulator block then gasket then delrin piece then gasket then carb.
 
Rep732 said:
@jeepfreak1972 the ddm one is just no good, they really should be using gaskets along with some sort of composite like delrin or nylon. I too tried using what was included when I first started out here and it wiped out one of my engines. Spoke to ddm and i got a top end out of the deal. Obr is gasket to head then billet insulator block then gasket then delrin piece then gasket then carb.
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I'll order the obr and send back the ddm
Screenshot_20240603_185613_Gmail~2.jpg

Done.
 
Rep732 said:
Good choice 👍
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I'd be pissed if I smoked my engine. Even if it's currently stock. In fact I thought I did today. It just quit at full throttle. Turns out the rubber switch cover, on the receiver on / off switch, is pushing the switch slightly towards off, activating the dynamite kill switch. It does it in bumpy terrain some times. I'll have to take it apart and get more room for the switch to move inside the rubber cover.
 
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