King Motor Baja 30.5cc KSRC-001 RTR

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You will be amazed, the curvy a-arms are very strong, better than the linear A frame. Have been in a few spills, and they hold true, even when I had the runaway, the wheel broke from its center support, and everything else intact.

The dominator pipe was recommended by Dylan, or Dan, cant remember which, from RovanRc/KM. For filling the shocks, I have done them both ways, it may not seem so, but it is easier from the bottom. There will be a all-in-one tool, ideal for the job. I did 10k on the diffs, too loose for me, but each track, surface will be different setups as you know from your on-road experience.

Went today all eager to once and for all run it without any drama. Was having a blast in this soccer field, when it kept going straight and would not turn. I thought I broke the servo again, or battery was dead (which if that was the case the kill switch would have turned off the car, but it did not).
Once I do a survey of the situation, the steering link rod bolt broke. That was another facepalm for Rovan/HPI whoever. I compare the bolt on the X2, is twice as thick against the KM bolt. Snapped that bolt from the root of the servo saver, leaving a nice piece of bolt stuck inside the thread. For now I am using the rod ends from a 1/8 buggy turnbuckles, and high strength bolt, but the same thickness (for now). I have seen a improvement in the steering with the cnc aluminum steering assembly, dark soul billet servo saver, threshold servo saver support.

The stock dog bones will wear out, but not right away, I am noticing on mine some footprint from the dog bone into the c-cup. My next purchase, hopefully there will be BF sales, will be all Team Chase dog bones, drive cups, but for now its fine. I do recommend the "killer cables" worth every penny, not only to save the shocks, the baja is way less bouncy in the rear, much more stable out of the turns. :)

These are just my recommendations, the Baja is still bashable like it is, but I do notice the vehicle more stable and holding spills with almost no breakage, besides the ones already addressed. :confused:

Left (Rovan KM) steering bolt
Center (typical 1/8th buggy) bolt
Right (X2 Losi 5ive) steeringbolt
 

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Wow, does it ever end?, just ordered a super bee kill switch, and cnc steering set up. I was thinking FLM bones, axels and outdrives. Dammm, is it Monday yet ? can't wait for the buggy to get here.
 
Well my roller came in today, got it out of the box for a good look over only found 2 screws missing from the rear skid plate, everything else was built very good. I put on rpm arms on the front and KM 1" axel extenders and the steering locked up, the screw that holds the extenders on rubs on the arm, the rears fit good. The wheels did not come with metal inserts for the hubs, so I guess those wheels will be replaced. Tried changing the shock oil and for the life of me I can't bleed these shocks, shafts are hard to move. The diff came out with no problems, it was empty, gave it some 10k. It's a work in progress, but that's part of the game. Have a table full of hop ups, but i'm calling it a night, I'll continue tomorrow on the front end and wait for some parts to come in and finish this thing. satisfied with my purchase, thanks Dan & KM.
 
The 5T wheels are the same, no metal inserts. Have not had any problems w them stripping, a drop of locktite to keep the wheel nuts in place.

The shocks usually have 16 hole pistons. On mine not even the thinnest oil would do. Ended drilling 3 holes using the smallest bit, about 1mm each. Harbor Freight sells a good mini bit kit. Drilled the three holes, 20 or 25 weight, cant remember and good. don't thread all the way, almost all out and push down, thread a little and push again. Certain times, almost when reaching fully close, may have to push back the shaft, unthread and push down again to get the air out. Have plenty of paper towels. I hate bleeding shocks more than replacing tires.

As a roller, not bad kits after all. If at some point I do buy another one, and they let me buy from them, as they are pissed off for bringing up the issues of the Baja, I will buy a roller. Believe it or not my second AS3035 broke, will upload some videos, those servos are a junk, no servo saver will do, and I did not crash w good EPA under 100%. Did not last 30 minutes of normal bashing in a baseball field. The servo did not overheat, would check every ten minutes or so, and to my bad luck lately, out of nowhere, it kept going straight and almost crashed into a fence. Nothing else gives me problems when bashing, no other parts break.

To me the build is half the fun, its great is coming along, those are small issues which are easy to fix, at least for now.

Open up a thread of the build, or upload pics of your baja some kind of thread.

Peace
 
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Good one Crank, that's what i'm going to try, drill out the piston, holes are so small, create mucho resistance. Still on the fence on what pipe to get, but leaning towards the V2 silenced( black).Man I hope you get that servo thing fixed, very odd indeed.
 
OK, got the steering problem beat by grinding a little off the RPM arms, nice and smooth now.All i'm waiting for is the aluminum tranny case, killer bee (have one on my FG Sportline, it's a must have), and I have to go to the hardware store to pick up some screws to mount my motor, they weren't included in the screw bag, but those screws, guess it was knock off time in China, Charlie chop sticks was in a hurry to get home.
 
Hey got the buggy all built minus 1 engine mount screw which I ordered, came out pretty good, kill switch mounted, got to get different air filter so as to have a little bit more wiggle room, and set rear camber when turnbuckles come in.Steering is working great. Added RPM front bumper and plug guard, hitec 5765 &5645 servos with metal horns, 500mah pack, airtronics radio gear, Nutech front turnbuckles, Mugen 10K diff oil, Vertigo vented clutch bell, 8K clutch spring, alum clutch bell carrier. The next hopups will be alum shock braces due in today and alum steering, body was painted silver. Crankenstien, thanks for all the tips.
 
ur welcome oskygt, I don't know why, on some models it does have only the (about 1mm) holes 3 or 4, while other shocks have the 16 and have heard some w 12 holes. For the air filter there is the Shred Industries Angled Plenum, have a little more space above the tank. There are china brand for much less on EBAY, which i found out later.

The only issue is I had to cut the front window for the air filter to fit. Just fyi, the stock unit, is one of the best air filters there is. Attached are photos of the different support brackets, cnc alloy manifold (ported).

If you can, lets see some photos of the rig.
 

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Crank i'm going to ask my son inlaw the computer wizard to help me post some pictures so you can tell what you think of my 001 OK?. My front shocks have 3 hole pistons while the rear ones have 16, but I am seriously thinking about a set of big bores. Did you get your steering servo squared away?. I painted my body silver, all I had, now you can see blemishes in the lexan but it came out ok, waiting on my shock supports, screw kit. Considering a class 1 buggy cage and body, (KM) black body. Like the way they look. but a little expensive for 4 pieces of lexan and some plastic parts, we'll see.
 
Oh yea, got the angled shredder on my wish list at DDM the stock HPI is a female dog to deal with, no room, it was a hassle getting my outterwears on the filter, I forgot to order it in my last shopping spree at DDM.
 
Well today I finally tried to start the Baja, and no dice. Tried needle settings, which was odd to me because my motor came off of my FG sportsline and I know it was tune to perfection, checked lines, electronics fully charged, fresh fuel at 25:1,linkages carb and plenum bolts tight, and still would not start, so i'm just staring at the buggy contemplating my next move, when my attention is drawn to that pretty aluminum KM tank cap, said let me replace it with the stock plastic cap, put that on and the engine fired right up and idles like a baby, gave it it's first run on concrete and grass, and man i'm hooked !!!!!!. Guys I chucked that aluminum cap as far as I could, don't want to know about it, good riddance.Super bee kill switch performed great as it should, now just got to tune the brakes a little more, stopping is kind of hairy. Now let me see about a truck !!!.
 
Just curious, you have been on the forums for a while, and see you have many posts since back 2011, This is now your first large scale? And you don't know how to upload photos, not even as attachments?

Do you view the conversations I sent you, it was written in spanish seeing you are from PR?

You had to do the cap mod, go grab that cnc cap... lol.

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The steering servo issue has been resolved, bought the servo adapter for larger models, and a King Motor X2 servo.

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Did circles the whole weekend and never over-heated (always stayed at ambient temp), its a little slower, but has tons of torque. The gears are almost twice as thick, has six bolts on top servo cover, while the AS3035 has only two. The same servos used in the X2 (5ive clone), a truck 40 pounds 4wd and has taken some bashing, been halfway over water, runaways, crazy tumbles, and on the truck still working good. One of them burned, but it was my fault for leaving the rx on while the radio was off, keeping the brake engaged burns them very quick. I saw multiple brands online, people recommended this and that, the KM4500 is a 15T within my budget, already have one for spare parts, its proven as I have taken it through its paces. With the CNC servo bracket, it stays there, no movement, none of those silly screws, and flexible mount. Its very quiet, no humming, holds neutral consistently, no servo fade, I highly recommend this servo for bashing.
 
No crank, this is not my first 5th scale, as I noted before I have an FG sportsline which is almost a evo (no hydraulic brakes), as for posting pictures, I never bothered to find out how to do it. I'll be 60 yrs old at the end of this month, please excuse my poor computer skills. Oh yea, forgot my nutech baja bug, which I sold at a Volky show. Si hablo espanol pero soy nacido y criado en Nueva York, Loewr East Side. And yes, I read your conversations in Spanish and enjoyed them very much, funny too.
 
That's the same steering servo mount I got, by Full Force RC, but with a hitec servo . the servo arm that came with it has no offset so theres lots of clearance and does not hit the top plate. Glad you got your servo problem solved. Happy bashing !!!!!
 
MT tires wheel combo are way better than the stock knobby tires. Pipe selection will depend on budget, if you can afford a high end $200.00 pipe, then go for it. I would say the clone dominator pipe is more than enough for bashing, and the same with the dragon pipe, just a little restrictive.

If its for bashing and there is going to be the possibility of damaging the pipe, then I would stick with china pipes. The ones I got hold well, china clone pipes, no crack in the mount, or anywhere in the belly.

Do you know how to upload pictures to your computer and send by email?
I can help you upload them if at least they are on your computer. If its a samsung/android, is pretty easy, they will be in the DCMI or DCIM folder, under the app you use to take photos.

I got the AS3035 as a emergency backup, possibly use it as a throttle servo for the X2 as not much torque is needed, but got to find the adapter plate as its a smaller servo housing. The KM4500 is smooth, consistent, never overheats, is not super fast, but on the good side, is not too demanding on battery usage, meaning longer run times and less strain to the electronics.
 
I agree, if your bashing go cheap! First flip or roll over its more than likely to get some damage. I'd stay away from the aluminum pipes, I didn't have my aluminum quiet pipe on for more than 15 minutes and had a tumble and it took some major damage. It's tucked up and under pretty well to. Glad I took this picture after I installed it.. At least I can remember what it used to look like.
 

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Today i installed the shredder angled air filter mount, gives room under the filter and tank, but now my motor won't hold a tune, could it be a air leak?, i'll change all gaskets and see what happens. Guys any suggestions?
 
Today i installed the shredder angled air filter mount, gives room under the filter and tank, but now my motor won't hold a tune, could it be a air leak?, i'll change all gaskets and see what happens. Guys any suggestions?

That's the first place I would start. If it ran fine prior and that's the only thing you did to it.
 
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