King motor baja is GARBAGE!!!!

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They are probably referring to the quick release roll cage tubes. Here is an example
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/192060133270
Pretty straight forward. Just cut the roll cage, slip this into place and tighten the set screws. Makes removing the roll cage easier
 
On my baja, the suspension is loose, (not justifying) but that seems to be the norm on all the other off road rc, the X2 has some play and the Sportwerks buggy.

I went ahead and bought the front A-arms with the upper ball ends, and was surprised that from factory they do have significant play, I mean a lot and its about the same as the current setup after many tanks of bashing. On the X2 it also has significant play. Where the a-arm meets the pin nearby the diff/ chassis.
* the place which I do put spacers is in the hub carriers, and I test out movement without the shocks installed, and if in the front, with the steering disconnected.

The cage mod I have done is for the baja version, not sure if its the same cage for the T1000.

The limiting cables from DDM are very strong, only got them in the back and are holding on well. The fronts have not installed them, but the front shocks have not given me problems, which I always thought was going to be the first thing seeing they are so exposed. Have front sway bar, but none in the back.

Like I said, those suspension ball ends have a lot of play new out of the box, I guess that when the truck is on the floor it rests and settles and its there as some room for impact.
The only times I have seen steering and suspension is crisp w no play is on on-road applications, at least thats how it is on the 1/8th nitro on-road platform.
 
Yeah, it seems to be the norm, I have full RPM arms on my baja and there's some play. But I guess that's a good thing, so there's somsome give on impacts to the suspension. As long as it's not sloppy loose it' ok for me.
 
That's why I went alloy on the upper arms. Took a lot of the slop out. Then I left the stock lowers because alloy lowers get beat to crap off-road lol
 
I held back on such upgrade, I don't like the metal to metal contact on a part that swivel 360, and dirt covers it acting like sand paper, but thats is just me.

I may give it a try one of these days.
 
Mine has no metal to metal contact. There are nylon bushings where the hinge pin goes thru
 
Seems like it's exactly as you guys describe. Not too loose but a bit of play. I will just replace as I brake. Thinking back to my Associated MGT days, the play is not that bad. As to the cage, I guess I misunderstood. Kraken has a real nice setup but it's pricey. I like the truck body so I'll stick with that and get a clear one to custom paint. Everything else looks good. To ditched the KM radio and installed a Futaba Rx, reset everything and tested the servos. All good. Once the billet clutch carrier arrives, I will give it the first run.
 
The one that you got; is it with 32cc or 30cc engine?

// Patience will pay off, I do like the KM radio, 3-channel, has very good range, no Kill switch issues, has a built in fail safe, batteries last a long time, has many of the features of high end models. But of course, everyone has there preferences.

The only thing I may do is JB weld some nuts or steel plates to make it heavier (internally on the Tx case). On the Fly-Sky thats what I did, glued about 4 bolts and a few washers on the internal casing of the Tx, plus the steering wheel bearing mod, and its a complete different transmitter.
 
Rabidfox50, maybe this is the mod you talking about. He mentions plastic panels that needs to be purchased at Michaels for about 70 cents per piece.

 
I guess you are saying that one of the wheels in your truck fell off and rolled away during a bashing session...

And Rabid, some pics of the painted body if you can upload them.
 
And the saga continues... :mad:

:eek:

On my X2, had some problems starting the car. Tore the engine apart and the wrist pin and bearing were on its last leg, barely any movement. Also the exhaust coupler literally disentegrated as soon as I took the clamps out. Working on that today, the many wonders of 5th scale...

If its a bearing that has the rubber seals sometimes you can save them from the dead. With a x-acto knife pry them open. Get a heat gun, some gloves and wd-40. Once done repack them with marine grease or something similar. If its beyond repair then disregard the above.
 

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So I got the TR rear upper plate in and threw it on. After doing so, the brake seems to drag a bit and binds at a certain point in rotation. There is a lot of meat on the brand new brake pads so I think it just needs to be run to break them in. Nothing else appears to be binding. The TR plate is perfectly straight and flat as well as the matching brake plate.
 
gt25xhdtrannyplate.webp
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Looks sweet, you could (just sayin) have gone the KM plate, is solid piece as well, mine was included w the rtr.
The price is not bad for a TR and such a big plate.
If you compare w the stock piece, anything extra or missing between the two? Do some dremmel work to make it fit.
 
I followed Fast Eddy's install video with no issues as to fitment, however the only binding appears to be in the brake system. Layshaft is straight and no clearance issues unless the brake pads are out of spec.

I started a new thread on this new issue.
 
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