King Motors Baja Clone

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where are you guys buying king and fg cars?

i bought my FG MB through my local model shop here in the UK who's an FG dealer. it's 4x4 kit i bought direct from hobbythek in Germany (http://rc-car-online.de/en-index.htm) the other FG came from raiding eBay for most of the parts and the donar parts left over from the 4x4 conversion i did. king motors and ShengQi can be bought from online model shops here in the UK too, haven't seen them "in the shops" so to speak, though i don't really go in the shops to be honest. not sure about rovan?? not that i've been looking but not realy come across them in the UK yet. someone else may know different...
 
Buyer Beware?

I am new to petrol but not to radio control.: I just bought a kmrc 2.0, checked on ebay first as you do £529+£9.99 p/p then went to the ebayers site and got the same car £499+£9.99:D so now :). Always thought ebay was likely to be cheaper:eek:
 
I own 2 FG's but the Baja thing is very simple to me.
EVERYONE WITHOUT EXCEPTION buys a Baja of some description, and either immediately, or systematically during use replaces broken / worn parts with hopups, generally the same ones, until the Baja still resembles a Baja but is perhaps 15-20% original, whether it were HPI, King or Chung Kong Fing (!!!) - doesn't make ANY difference.

I'm tired of this Clone BS - EVERYONE replaces with hopups and virtually NONE are original!!

Al.

thats about it, once you start replacing hop ups it no longer will have the brand behind it such as hpi, km, rovan, or whatever.

i would love for hpi to start sueing clone owners because they would have to go after EVERYONE who has a genuine hpi and hopped it up as well ;)
 
yah like my T1000 KM 29cc, its been at least 40 maybe up to 50% swapped out with aftermarket parts, some HPI brand, not much a couple parts, mostly aftermarket stuff from Tulare, DDM, TGN, etc...
 
Hi guys ! I am new in RC cars and looking for a 1/5 scale buggy !
Is this king motor Baja clone reliable ? Like run on sand, road, grass surfaces, not too big jump, just have fun. I'am aware that some parts will broke but I don't want a crap you know...

Thank for your help !
 
I pesonally belive the km are almost as good as the hpi, I bought an hpi ss ans was very happy with it. a friend of mine bought two km's and one was good and one was bad. the all alum one was the bad one had some fitment issues on the enclosed cluch carrier had problems with the 2 speed. I hate the clone carbs. the other one was basic km version 2 i think. pretty good buggy. The 2 bolt motors is what i don't like about any of them. there are going to be some hybrid km/hpi mostly hopped up versions showing up on ebay pretty soon.
 
the KM is just as good as hpi, both have breaks and faults and each brand will have its lemons. but the price of a KM will allow you to take the money saved if you wish and sink into upgrades, some of which are NOT stock on a HPI.
 
Thx guys... We can read lots of conflicting opinions here and there so it's difficult to make a choice ! Well after reading different post I think this buggys not a bad choice !
Thx and have fun !

Edit : Is KSRC 001 a good choice ?
 
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Wamou, the KRSC-001 is an excellent buggy. I have had mine for a week now and ran 4 tanks through it (45 minutes drive time per tank). The main thing to do first is upgrade the servos, the stock ones arent the best. You can pick up Hitec servos on Ebay for around 115 for the set, shipped in the USA. Search for the seller RCSuperStore He has both servos.

Look for HS-5755MG for the steering. You will need to trim the lower part of the KM servo mount a bit to make it fit, remove the upper mounting locators, redrill the upper holes, then its perfect. EXTREMELY strong servo, my buggy goes where I point it now. Use the supplied single side arm. Use the farthest up hole that will allow your linkage to clear the upper deck.

Look for HS-5645MG for the throttle/brake. Your buggy will stop on a dime and probably give you some change back. Use the included single side arm with the 6 holes. Use the outer hole.

Reset the needles before you even start it. 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 on the HS needle is ballpark. 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 is ballpark on the LS needle. Might need to raise the idle speed a bit.

The shock assembly from the factory wasnt that good on my car, they left out the bottoming clips, but included them in the spares bag, idiots LOL I ordered the HPI 5B shock pistons, used the 3 Holers in the front and 12 holers in the rear. Use 30-40wt in the front shocks and 5-15 in the rear shocks. don't USE SILICON shock oil, use the HPI Baja oil!!!
 
  • HS-5755MG
  • Size Category: Specialty
  • Type: Digital
  • Application: 1/4 and 1/5th scale vehicles, large sail and power boats, rudder servo in giant scale aircraft
  • Torque: 278 oz-in (19.9kg-cm) @ 4.8V; 347 oz-in (24.8kg-cm) @ 6.0V
  • Speed: 0.18 sec/60 deg @ 4.8V; 0.15 sec/60 deg @ 6.0V
  • Length: 2.30 in (58.0mm)
  • Width: 1.14 in (28.5mm)
  • Height: 2.04 in (51.0mm)
  • Weight: 6.00 oz (168g)
  • Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
  • Bearing: Triple
  • Motor Type: 3 Pole Ferrite
  • Gear Type: Metal
HS-7955TG
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]SPECS: Speed: 0.19 sec/60 degrees at 4.8V
Torque: 249.96 oz/in at 4.8V (18 kg/cm)
Length: 1.57" (40mm)
Width: 0.78" (20mm)
Height: 1.45" (37mm)
Weight: 2.29oz (65g)

Nope, the 5755 is a better fit, faster, cheaper and stronger ;)
[/FONT]
 
km will cost ya less overall, and the saved cash can go into upgrades. 2 of which would be the 7955 for throttle/brake and the 5755 for steering servos.

spend a lil on topside braces, shock supports, etc.. on mine i prolly have into it what the cost of a hpi out of box would run, BUT, i have much tougher truck with the upgrades i put on it. for bout the same overall cost of a hpi out of box.
 
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