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Yeah I have seen that happen before Doug. That's why I gave a shot of the back of the packaging and a full detail pic of the tools. It looks as though Snap On thought of both issues, of breaking off and stripping bolts, when developing their ball end allen keys. I haven't had to use them yet, but I will check back in when I do and will let all know how good or bad they work. All I know is that I've had great success with all Snap On tools that I have used in the past and currently. They are a little pricey, but in the right circumstances they are worth it.The only thing with ball ends i don't like is that the the ball dose not grip all the way down insde the cap and you can strip a bolt quickly
In my experience if you use ball ends to take out and put bolts in, they are the best?? but not the best to tighten up (torque down or release a torqued down bolt.) Hope that makes sense???Yeah I have seen that happen before Doug. That's why I gave a shot of the back of the packaging and a full detail pic of the tools. It looks as though Snap On thought of both issues, of breaking off and stripping bolts, when developing their ball end allen keys. I haven't had to use them yet, but I will check back in when I do and will let all know how good or bad they work. All I know is that I've had great success with all Snap On tools that I have used in the past and currently. They are a little pricey, but in the right circumstances they are worth it.
Makes sense to me. That's how I use them. But I've found out the hard way that the cheap ball ends break when there isn't much resistance on the bolt. Especially the smaller sizes.In my experience if you use ball ends to take out and put bolts in, they are the best?? but not the best to tighten up (torque down or release a torqued down bolt.) Hope that makes sense???
Yea a little buggy, I had 2 bad servos rite out the box, then light bar wire ripped off.....Hi all
My 5t 2.0
This is a great 1/5 scale first and formost
but I have had couple issue's
Break in was done with 25/1 ratio,
Broke motor in using heat and cool method 1st.
first start up ran for 5 minutes let cool for 30 (motor never got over 140 degrees f. at little over idle
second start, ran about 10 minutes let cool 30 little higher RPM
third start ran for rest of tank out at about 1/4 throttle
First field trip, found a field with dirt and low grass (throttle was 75% max available
fired it and ran for about 5 minutes and motor locked up, found that clutch shoe bolt had came loose and locked up clutch
pulled both bolts and used blue Loctite ensuring only on threads (none on shoulder of screws
Next run found a empty parking lot and ran about 1/2 of a tank with 100% throttle available nice run, but oil on chassie from pipe exhaust
next time I went out wasn't able to start, coil needed replaced.
Well I just finished reworking pipe everything looks good, added 2.125" to outlet of exhaust and little twisting of mount bracket on pipe
Upgrades so far equal
Bartalone Big Bore Silenced pipe
Super Bee Kill Switch w/buzzer and led light
pull start outer wear
cooling fan outer wear
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Why the new spark plug. And can I fit hostile cv boots on the 2.0I had to replace the throttle servo with a wp840 and will probably have to replace the steering servo soon. Had to rebuild the shocks out of the box and yesterday after a rollover I broke a part of the roll cage. Wasn't even that bad of a roll over. Other than that its been fun
I am thinking about upgrading the pinion in the near future. Also gonna give the E3.24 sparkplug a few runs today. Try it out see if there is any noticeable difference
Why the new spark plug. And can I fit hostile cv boots on the 2.0
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