Losi DBXL build

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Lopes3d

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Hi guys, recently picked up what looks to be a bit of a ropey dbxl. Bought it as bit less than a roller no electrics tray/ fuel tank/ shocks, but was pretty cheap at £150.

Started the strip down on the rear, diff was leaking opened up the gearbox case and the crown bolts were all loose. I’ve cleaned out all gears and the diff case. I’m pretty baffled that there wasn’t any diff shims, is this a normal occurrence in these diffs? Haven’t reassembled it yet.

Also had read through this, is there any way of identifying a genuine losi diff case. As they look fairly stock in fact I don’t think anything has been touched on this bar taking off parts as there’s no threadlock on anything I took off.

https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/is-this-normal.28219/

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Drive shafts cleaned up pretty nice considering what they were, pins are still in there pretty tight as well. Got a few bits below, that will be going on during the rebuild.

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No shims in stock is normal. Spend the money and buy alloy diffs. Trust me, you'll be in there with the junky plastic ones more then you'd think if you run hard. Money well spent. Flm shafts for the win. Chassis braces and eventually alloy diff housings should be added. If it's a v1 get 5ive t front shocks and throw those boat anchors that came with out. (Or irc shocks if 5ive t shocks can't be had for cheap.)
 
No shims in stock is normal. Spend the money and buy alloy diffs. Trust me, you'll be in there with the junky plastic ones more then you'd think if you run hard. Money well spent. Flm shafts for the win. Chassis braces and eventually alloy diff housings should be added. If it's a v1 get 5ive t front shocks and throw those boat anchors that came with out. (Or irc shocks if 5ive t shocks can't be had for cheap.)
Thought as much but seen conflicting info in different threads but manual says there’s none, nor any blocks. I’ve got a set of stock dbxl ones to go on the front as one is slightly warped (if they fail I’ll be going FLM). Got a set of IRC ready to go on just need to open up the tower to accept it.

Are the alloy ones really worth the extra don’t think I’m going to be running anything crazy engine wise, been thinking of g290.
 
Not a lot of time recently with staying away with work etc. Rear end is pretty much back together I’ve gone 30k in rear diff. I’m yet to bleed these shocks, is there any specific way to do these with the bleed caps? I’ve tried removing the bottom spring perch but not 100% sure they come out on these big bore shocks. Is it possible to bleed with spring still in place.

Mocked them up on the rear just need to sort some sort of spacer or use some washers for the bottom of the shock. But the top looks ok, haven’t had to open up the tower just need to put the o rings in.342E1E47-6AF8-49FE-8230-4A30941FD80C.jpegA901F0A6-92FD-4DE4-93F6-FAC5D7DD8E5A.jpeg
 
Wise words of @Seandonato73 came true, upon taking the centre diff out the housing had a massive hole in the side and one of the shafts had sheared. Ordered up some diff internals and an atop alloy diff housing.

After stopping on the centre, decided to start on stripping down the front diff housing was in a lot better condition with very little wear so will just run until it fails. I’ve noticed the steering ackerman and the turnbuckle ends have a lot of wear on them, not quite sure what there catching on? But have a FID dual steering arm setup on the way to freshen things up.
 
It's the only thing I know of that could rub up there. Kinda sad to say this, but once it's wore in its a done deal. The steering links just been ti adjust epa a but so it doesn't rub.
 
Front end coming together, shocks bled, centre diff in the new casing. Rebuilt mounted to chassis. I’m struggling to fit the fid dual servo arm steering seems to be fouling on the centre shaft. Anyone come across this, or am I missing something? The lower arm on the servo is also fixed I thought could just take out and swap the higher for lowerB14463C9-ACA7-4C6A-AA6F-4585792791ED.jpeg
 
Front end coming together, shocks bled, centre diff in the new casing. Rebuilt mounted to chassis. I’m struggling to fit the fid dual servo arm steering seems to be fouling on the centre shaft. Anyone come across this, or am I missing something? The lower arm on the servo is also fixed I thought could just take out and swap the higher for lowerView attachment 82823
you should use back the original center shaft.
 
That's strange, to be honest it looks like the whole steering assembly is upside down. That nut on the double arm should be at the bottom toward the chassis not the top. That Ackerman link should be above the center dogbone not under it.
 
That's strange, to be honest it looks like the whole steering assembly is upside down. That nut on the double arm should be at the bottom toward the chassis not the top. That Ackerman link should be above the center dogbone not under it.
It goes under the drive shaft like it is.
Get an flm front drive shaft, I'm actually surprised you haven't killed the ujoint style one yet. I killed tons of then till the flm shafts came out. I never did bother with the push pull steering arms, the dbxl light weight and a strong 1/5 servo always did me well.
 
Well that's a bs setup. That's why I never bothered with the dbxl in any generation as they just seem to be doomed rig.
The problem is losi wanted a cheap entry level 1/5 with their name on it. The designer did make a worthy rig sold under (cant remember) another name, that was set up closer to a 5ive drive train. It never really caught hold. I think the issue with the bastard child was it was a good bit more expensive then the dbxl. That said, before I got rid of my dbxl it was working really well, just needed lots and lots of rework and good parts to get it there. I should have bought a 5ive platform, would have been cheaper in the long run. I did really like that the dbxl was very light and in the small side of the 1/5 scale spectrum. The 5ive t and vekta are a lot bigger and arnt nearly as fun to rip around my place as I don't have a ton of room here at the house. It also positively flew compared to the 5ive or vekta. I kinda wish I had a gos unit and clocked it. Pulled pretty big gear set with the g320 in it.
 
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