My 30lb baby arrived

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thats what they say, but some trucks werent serviced as good as others, ya know, rush rush, get it out to sales type stuff. they may be getting better at it since i got my truck, from what someone else sed after they got thiers recently and started to do the service prep to it, diff was full loctite well used. maybe theyre getting things done better, maybe that guy just got a great truck. but for the money spent, its worth the time to go head and do check everything out, diff fluid, loctited correctly, etc... gettin ya that alloy diff housing for the diff tho, is well worth it, you only remove a few things over having to just bout completely tear down back end to get diff out. it has a access hatch on back thats bolted on. remove those bolts and take out diff. the regular way ya gotta remove upper a arms, towers, upper yop plate, etc.. plus alot more. heck, if i was able to afford the HPI, i would still do same thinga anyways, checkin diff fluid, bolts nuts, etc..
 
yeah I just got everything back together and it was definately quite a chore to do, wish I would have ordered a split diff ahead of time but oh well I will replace it next time. I found everything to have ample loctite and the diff wasn't empty but needed to be filled so it was worth it. Not to mention I now know how it all works:) suppose to rain tomorrow but definately some video on Saturday I can't wait. As for the gear mesh it is butter smooth now.

Brian
 
Looks awesome. I got the same one from Dan. Fireman, when you're ready to buy, and if you choose Dan off Ebay, make an offer on the one you want, he'll work with you on the price. I paid much less than the $829. He also included the bigger pipe, and I had him swap the black body for a white one. I figured white would hide the scratches better when it starts to get beat up. My gear mesh was tight as well. I was surprised. Everything else was good to go.

Awesome truck, and I'd love to have at a track like that with mine.

My truck just after I got it:

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So after starting it up it looks like I destroyed my PS, the spring came loose inside and the screw is stripped so I have to order a new one. incoming bling:) I also have some Bad Horsie shock covers coming today:)

33276[/ATTACH]"]eg359chromercstarter.webp
 

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thats what i keep telling everyone, the PS will bork real fast unless they used the collared pawl kind, make sure that new shiney one you got has the collar round the pawl, or your prolly lookin at another borked starter again
 
I ran about a tank through mine today and I'm starting to have problems with my pull start. It engages once out of every 3 or 4 pulls. Also, the body isn't holding up well at all. My truck's only been on it's roof twice now and the rear mount area is almost all broken away. It appears to be quite brittle. It was only about 30 degrees today, so I'm sure that's not helping, but one or two light rollovers and the body's nearly had it.

Both of these are problems I expected and considered beforehand. I'll post up pics of the body in the morning (late morning...It's 3:00 a.m. right now).
 
i used a spare addon section from the stormtrooper costume and used a heat gun to heat shape it on underside in back where mine too was crackin out. pop riveted it in place on underside, it reinforced that whole section across.

and yah the PS is the first thing to let go it seems on those, mine did in less than 2 tanks, i got a COLLARED pawl PS and no more issues AT ALL with that since then. i got mine out today for a few runs up and down the road, after it finally warmed up, i was hittin 2nd gear easily, and when it hits it it almost lifts the front off ground.
 
In one of my previous orders I got the steel collar so even if the PS has a plastic one I can replace it:) My collar didn't give up just the spring mechanism and screw Oh well gives me more time to make it road worthy. btw my plan is to replace this body with the Woodster wide as I knew ahead of time that these bodies would not hold up.
 
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Syphon said:
In one of my previous orders I got the steel collar so even if the PS has a plastic one I can replace it:) My collar didn't give up just the spring mechanism and screw Oh well gives me more time to make it road worthy. btw my plan is to replace this body with the Woodster wide as I knew ahead of time that these bodies would not hold up.
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Hey syphon have you been having some of the problems as cobra is having other then the pull start? ie the plastic brace, and stuff.
 
Nope I rednecked up a temp fix for my pull start today and ran a tank through it. All i can say is wow crazy power and throttle response although it is my first 1/5 scale i have had lst2's w/ crazy power and they don't compare. happy buyer. I also installed the bad horsie shock covers.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pull-start-Fits-CY-KM-Ksrc-001-002-HPI-5B-5T-2-0-SS-/130541591191?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item1e64e29a97


this ebay link shows a pic of underside of ps, it has metal pawl, but thats not what im talking bout, look at the circular collar rising up from the cord wheel, thats the collar im refering too. without one, the pawl can cock sideways when you pull the rope, it will jam, then bend the washer, and mess up. the collar keeps it from cocking sideways completely.

so it works flawlessly. now thats not to say the spring wont ever mess up or rope fray and break over time, but having that collar to keep pawl from cocking sideways prevents the damage.
 
Syphon said:
Nope I rednecked up a temp fix for my pull start today and ran a tank through it. All i can say is wow crazy power and throttle response although it is my first 1/5 scale i have had lst2's w/ crazy power and they don't compare. happy buyer. I also installed the bad horsie shock covers.
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Cool You got me scared there for a Second. This will be my first ever 1/5 scale as well. and i figured that if im gonna spend $600.00-$800 for one it better be worth it because to me thats still a lot of money for a toy. anyway cant get one untill taxes come back. been driving my wife nuts talking, and researching about this truck.
Thanks for the reply.
 
Ok so it sound like you are saying that the piece of metal that the rope runs through keeps the pull start line in place so it doesn't move the mechanism sideways, and bend the washer, with the screw through it, holding the fly wheel in place. is this correct Lan_ED_tul ?
 
Fireman15 said:
Ok so it sound like you are saying that the piece of metal that the rope runs through keeps the pull start line in place so it doesn't move the mechanism sideways, and bend the washer, with the screw through it, holding the fly wheel in place. is this correct Lan_ED_tul ?
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no, look at the pic in ebay link, the rope has nothing to do with it, if you take a ps thats not collared, the white plastic circle thats molded onto the rope wheel, and look at while ya pull the rope, you can see occasionally the pawl will try to cock over, well when installed if it cocks over it jams on the receiving end on flywheel, and will bend that washer.

looking at the link pic that collar keeps the pawl straight in and out thru its entire travel in to engage and back out for another yank on rope.

nother pic:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c291/LAN-ED-TUL/KGrHqNisE1MO4YIS7BNYgtPQ_12.jpg



nother pic i made pointers to collar im talkin bout

collar.webp


pic of my 1/10 scale rock crawler i made a gravedigger body for, its a axiel 1/10, and it has rear steer, and good gummy tires for crawling
PHOT0507.webp
 
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