My Baja seems to like to roll / flip over

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Steve2021

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Was bashing with the Baja and it seems to sometimes flip over when hard cornering on grippy grass.

I have attached a video to give an Idea of what I mean.


Is this just the way of the baja? My Hpi truggy flux only flips when I crash lol
 
Taken said:
Pretty much everything is going to roll on grass. Lowering the suspension might help.
Click to expand...

Thanks but on the same surface my HPI Truggy Flux doesn't roll, but I suppose its not a big heavy lump like the baja lol


John117 said:
Axle extenders?
Click to expand...

Already have some fitted :-)
Dashz said:
A bit off topic but What pipe are you running?
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I think it's a Dominator clone with a silencer added on the end.

The silencer does actually work at slightly toning it down :-)
Dashz said:
A bit off topic but What pipe are you running?
Click to expand...


 
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Well your first issue is that those tires are ment to hook so your rig is behaving as the tires were designed for. If you want to drive like that then get some tires with a less aggressive tread. Second observation is maybe adjust your driving style to the terrain your on as its not your rigs fault its flipping over but it's you thats causing it to roll
 
Your kidding right? So if his baja flipped due to a tire digging in the direction of the slide how's thinner oil going to help? Thinner diff oil doesn't prevent a vehicle from from sliding and flipping, c'mon kid you can do better than that
 
Lower suspension, as well use STIFF sway bars (front & rear). That will CERTAINLY, help.

EDIT:: It also will help, to add the wheel extenders (if you have not done so already). If you have sway bars (which will help the most.) Then try lowering the mounts, to get a better firmness, out of what you have (even if it means drilling/tapping new holes.
 
Try adjusting the spring tension rings or consider change in shock oil weight. Going too tight does not always help. Sometimes a softer spring tension or change in shock oil may make the difference.
Change in tire type may also help to some extent. There is also the camber angle. Tires with a flat profile may dig in too much on their edge, whereas tires with a rounder profile may not. Flat profile tires need to have a neutral camber for better contact with the surface. A rounded tire can work with a slight angle (wheel leaning inwards just a bit). Tire foam can also aid in grip as well as this will provide some additional dampening. Weight transfer on a turn or when you hit the brakes. If the rear wheels lockup, you are trading static friction with dynamic friction so the front wants to pass the rear and the car will spin out. This will result in flips. Some remotes (not all) may have an anti-lock braking feature. If yours has this, try it out. Car will slow down but not lock the rear wheels but depends on how it is set up.
 
Thanks, was messing with the tension rings last night and set them to about 10mm they were about 25mm.

Are sway bars recommended for off road bashing use? I have a front bar fitted but noticed if say the right wheel goes over something like a large stone the left wheel lifts off the ground as well. Disconnected the bar and the wheel now stays on the ground while the other rides over the object.
 
Well, if for bashing, use sway bars (since your car flips) but use the softer ones.
My assumption, was more to get RC to stop flipping (on any turn) That is why I recommended HARD sway bars, and or at a lower point.
If you do use the sway bars, you can adjust the shocks almost back to normal.

Sway bars are made specific for shifting weight, hence, you can take a tighter turn at faster speed. The more spring in the sway bar (lighter ones), the more shifted weight, and vice versa.
 
LoL, I removed my sway bars (due to upgraded nylon arms), and yes the arms are great (much beefier) but damn that thing could not take a corner once I removed them.
So, nothing to learn (in my case) granted, it was a on/off road Jato that I got up to 87mph, and could corner doing 30/40ish (I mean tight corner).
I use to do figure eights, to get hang of car, before I brought it to a track.

Long story short. Arms had to go. Sway bars back on.
 
My King Motor Baja does not have any sway bars. It is heavy at 36lbs and is quite stable for bashing. One of my favorites. The other one, a Rovan Limited Edition all aluminum has the same geometry as the KM but this also has sway bars. Thicker shocks and springs and will flip easy. It weighs about the same. I believe it is the difference in the shocks, springs and shock oil used. First thing I did with this one was flip it in the street just making a turn. one of those WTF? moments. I did try to loosen up the suspension as much as possible. As for the third one, most of the weight is the RCMAX/Taylor parts. The control arms are Rovan extended. I did opt for the sway bars on this. It sits much higher than the other two and have not rolled it over yet, that I recall. That one weighs around 38lbs. It is one of those assemblies you can step on and it will not bottom out in the rear end. Front, yah, that can be influenced to scrape bottom. The KM and Rovan can be compressed down so the chassis makes contact to the surface. Some of it can be balance from front to rear, as well as center of gravity. How much droop or squat you get under throttle in the rear end and lift on the front end may also factor in. As I said before, mine are heavy so that may contribute to lack of roll or may influence more pitch and tumble. I doubt any of them will reach insane speeds. I have learned to compensate for tight turns due to the understeer due to the mass of each vehicle, hit the brakes or drop throttle, start the turn and let it rip. Since this transfers the weight forward, there is more pressure on the front end to do the turn. The home built one with RCMAX parts will take the turn on three wheels. The front end tends to lift the other wheel under tight turns at full throttle. I have not noticed that with the other one that has shorter length arms and sway bars. The KM just remains compliant and does not seem to let go of the ground unless it has taken air due to terrain. I would say the KM feels sloppy and loose but works really good on off road conditions.
 
Rather than get into a debate, as I really do not care.
Sway bars are for exactly what I stated (for weight shift). Does not matter if it is a full size car (which all, including military Jeep, etc.) have them.
Down to 1/18th of a car/truck. They are there for that particular reason.
Now if setup incorrectly, that will make a difference.

But to each their own.

Enjoy the hobby. (as this a barely a secondary hobby for me)

With a telescope in the 325+ pound range (not including the main 6 foot tall permanent tri-pier) is more my main (being in astrophysics).
Shooting at 1.9f stop / to 10 (at worst)....
Is more than a hobby, but is more my main interest.

EDIT:: If you have a droop setup, that will help more than shock adjustment (note - this is meant for op)
But most Bajas, do not have. I recall my HPI SS did have such setup/ but I may have added it.
As that kit I built from scratch.

BCR.
 
I am not posing an argument. Just an observation. I would agree with you on the subject. Actually, I was surprised the KM did not come with the sway bars in the first place.
 
for me, harder springs helped on the body roll effect. specially when a made the rear shocks true dual rate with the 3d printed sleeve under the shorter spring0D3BE017-9C2E-4697-AD1F-2535BD43DB49.webp
 
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