my new toy

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
charlieboy said:
Ren I had the same with mine and all I did was turned the servo round so the servo arm was at the back instead of the front then put the arm on the other side and it worked, don't know if you tried that but it worked for me fella ;)
Click to expand...

That makes sense.
Should have enough room, and should also permit the rod to be straigher - less risk of flexing.

Al.
 
there are options to change the servo so it will rotate in the opposite direction. the easiest would be to get a servo reverser, its a little device that plugs inline between the servo and receiver (or in this case the y harness) and reverses the signal so the servo will turn the opposite way. the other option takes some soldering skills. it involves opening up the servo, reversing the motor wires and 2 of the wires on the potentiometer. iirc there is a how to on this site on how to do this.
 
charlieboy said:
Ren I had the same with mine and all I did was turned the servo round so the servo arm was at the back instead of the front then put the arm on the other side and it worked, don't know if you tried that but it worked for me fella ;)
Click to expand...

mate ive had it this way that way any other way i could trying to get it working
 
Sharkey said:
there are options to change the servo so it will rotate in the opposite direction. the easiest would be to get a servo reverser, its a little device that plugs inline between the servo and receiver (or in this case the y harness) and reverses the signal so the servo will turn the opposite way. the other option takes some soldering skills. it involves opening up the servo, reversing the motor wires and 2 of the wires on the potentiometer. iirc there is a how to on this site on how to do this.
Click to expand...

i think im going with the reverser option
 
another run today more space but very ruff and not good for the front bumper so ive had to trim 5mm off the bottom edge don't look as good but i can use it now without it scraping across the ground had a good 20 mins of driving and loved every min,i am bored of the stock 23 allready and cant wait for the oddie to go in plus its got a better clutch which will help put the 6hp from the 23cc oddie down,at the mo its running 24/40 is this the stock ratio and what would happen if i fitted 20/44 gears im thinking of drifting
 
couple more changes ive fixxed the front brakes now linkage pulls straighter and better i used a servo reverser to solve it,when braking now it pulls that hard you can see the chassis flex,but ive won a m&r racing lwb top deck/brace so that will stop that,plus its the same make as the one on the bug i think im going to get them both re-powder coated at some point in orange as im trying to theme both car sort of the same,im waiting on some stickers to be made at the mo im having a freinds tattoo shop name down both cars in old english font in black and in modern font oddified in orange to go across roofs ,ive made my renbar ones out of some spare stickers i had


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
yes the rear wing is wonky its landed on its arse so many times it needs new rear mounts but the don't make go any quicker so there on the todo list so for now im going to heat it up and bend it as close as straight as i can
 
got parts in post today the m&r chassis brace/top deck came this took me a couple of hours to fix and get fitting right i bent the front mount same as i did on bug so it bolts through the second hole in the alloy triangle that bolts from a+b to the servo saver bolt,before even with a 8mm thick comp chassis when braking you could see the chassis flex now theres only about 1-2mm of flex only at the front manly due to plastic shock tower but as soon as i can get the carbon one same as the bug's then it will help,i think tommorrow im removing engine and and robbing it of bits for the 29cc i need the quick release mount and i want the carb for the 23cc as its got a choke i cant be arsed to remove filter every time i want to start it,plus i need to find a suitible place to mount the ecu but its got to be used in both cars so velcro may be the answer
 
renbar said:
got parts in post today the m&r chassis brace/top deck came this took me a couple of hours to fix and get fitting right i bent the front mount same as i did on bug so it bolts through the second hole in the alloy triangle that bolts from a+b to the servo saver bolt,before even with a 8mm thick comp chassis when braking you could see the chassis flex now theres only about 1-2mm of flex only at the front manly due to plastic shock tower but as soon as i can get the carbon one same as the bug's then it will help,i think tommorrow im removing engine and and robbing it of bits for the 29cc i need the quick release mount and i want the carb for the 23cc as its got a choke i cant be arsed to remove filter every time i want to start it,plus i need to find a suitible place to mount the ecu but its got to be used in both cars so velcro may be the answer
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm missing something, but why are you removing the filter every time you want to start it?
If it's an 813, then before pulling the starter, after priming, pump the throttle a few times with the Tx / Rx.
If there's no accelerator and you're having difficulties, I suppose a plastic bag over the filter can help ...? .....
Al.
 
no i was using a wt 771 but i found the best way was to remove jubilee clip and take filter off but in the touring car with roll cage in the way im using the choked one,the new 29cc is going to have a wt990 so ill stick with the remove and plug method it only takes a min and i don't have to pull it over a hundred times
 
ive got a 771 on my onroad. i prime it till the bulb has fuel, trim the throttle up (when cold) and a few pulls and it fires right up. it actually starts better than the 668 with choke.
 
Sharkey said:
ive got a 771 on my onroad. i prime it till the bulb has fuel, trim the throttle up (when cold) and a few pulls and it fires right up. it actually starts better than the 668 with choke.
Click to expand...

ive tried it mate but it still takes a month to start it needs that little bit of thumb choke and it fires first pull
 
Sorry to say this but if there was one thing I would advise against, it's that brace - mega damage waiting to happen if you have a shunt - I've seen it many times. A chassis should be able to flex a bit, thats why the carbon strips were fitted, yes they stiffen the chassis but it can still move.

Glad you've got your brakes sorted.

My engines don't have a choke - I hold the throttle on full for 3 pulls, let it off then pull it 2 or three more times and it starts, once it's been warmed up it'll start 1st or second pull for the rest of the day.
 
Back
Top