Trip
Well-Known Member
...And that's why it fit... lol
New to1/5 Scale..Slawhammer's Project
- Thread starter slawhammer
- Start date
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dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
they always fit for me trip on zenoah or cy,never had a problem with them,they mount on there perfect anyway regardless of that notch cut out of the case.
maybe ddm cy motors are differnt than the cy i had,who knows,are ddm motors even genuine cy's..
you sure they arent cloned?
maybe ddm cy motors are differnt than the cy i had,who knows,are ddm motors even genuine cy's..
you sure they arent cloned?
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #283
Pipe..Good ..hope you can use some of the ideas for your fiehammer...What it's about sharing ideas that work.....
dc..I said before all my stuff is different..If you see my chassie mod,,,The under side of chassie pan is milled for the engine slot mount holes ...I have different mount bolt set up..
I really think the engine movement is caused by chassie flexing..back & forth..diff gear pushing on the transfer gear...thus shoving the engine back ..loosing the engine mount screws or bolts......I can draw a picture and post up how to stop it from moving for the FG or any other type RC Unit.....Real simple...That mod is under..1 dollar to do..
I really think you guys are going to have to do like I dome with that strip od metal
from the back of chassie to the front of engine...to stop the rear flex...Just my thought..
AKASlawhammer
dc..I said before all my stuff is different..If you see my chassie mod,,,The under side of chassie pan is milled for the engine slot mount holes ...I have different mount bolt set up..
I really think the engine movement is caused by chassie flexing..back & forth..diff gear pushing on the transfer gear...thus shoving the engine back ..loosing the engine mount screws or bolts......I can draw a picture and post up how to stop it from moving for the FG or any other type RC Unit.....Real simple...That mod is under..1 dollar to do..
I really think you guys are going to have to do like I dome with that strip od metal
from the back of chassie to the front of engine...to stop the rear flex...Just my thought..
AKASlawhammer
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
cheers slaw
well i presume its just the metal sheet you have under the chassis to stop the flex,i understand how you done that from your thread here
maybe a as you say more detailed version would be helpful
cheers slaw.
well i presume its just the metal sheet you have under the chassis to stop the flex,i understand how you done that from your thread here
maybe a as you say more detailed version would be helpful
cheers slaw.
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #285
Chassie Mod & Ice Storm
dc.. I used a strip of metal for under chassie mod...1/8" thick..1 " wide 7 1/2" Long
for my use..from back of chassie to in front of engine.....I used JB Weld ( liquaid steel)
to hold it in place..let cure 24 hrs..Then drilled counter sunk holes and bolted up...
Might work for you ..do know you chassie pan.....
There is a Ice strom here today with 10 inch's snow too follow..I got pictures of bamboo
laying on the house...Might loose electric power ..So won't be able to get on inner net....
I will draw up a mod for the engine ..so it will not move on ya...cost like 1 buck 2 at the most.....AKASlawhammer:2guns::2guns:
dc.. I used a strip of metal for under chassie mod...1/8" thick..1 " wide 7 1/2" Long
for my use..from back of chassie to in front of engine.....I used JB Weld ( liquaid steel)
to hold it in place..let cure 24 hrs..Then drilled counter sunk holes and bolted up...
Might work for you ..do know you chassie pan.....
There is a Ice strom here today with 10 inch's snow too follow..I got pictures of bamboo
laying on the house...Might loose electric power ..So won't be able to get on inner net....
I will draw up a mod for the engine ..so it will not move on ya...cost like 1 buck 2 at the most.....AKASlawhammer:2guns::2guns:
Attachments
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #286
Keep engine from moving
Hey dc..I drew up a simple diagram...Once you get your engine and gear mesh set
you can do like What's in the diagram...This is last resort to keep the engine from moving
Drill 2 holes in front of the engine mounts..counter sink the bottom run beveled screw up and use a fiber lock nut....What is the engine going now....No where.....
Just my thought for a simple fix....AkASlawhammer
Hey dc..I drew up a simple diagram...Once you get your engine and gear mesh set
you can do like What's in the diagram...This is last resort to keep the engine from moving
Drill 2 holes in front of the engine mounts..counter sink the bottom run beveled screw up and use a fiber lock nut....What is the engine going now....No where.....
Just my thought for a simple fix....AkASlawhammer
Attachments
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
thanks slaw man very good of you to take the time.
god i never thought of that,great idea.
the onlt thing i want to say is my rear upper turnbuckle(the iron rod that attaches the hub to the diff,balljoint at each end) you see im kinda at my limit on moving the engine back at the moment,it rubbs that arm, anoying!
i think in these machines there was major desigh flaws....
god i never thought of that,great idea.
the onlt thing i want to say is my rear upper turnbuckle(the iron rod that attaches the hub to the diff,balljoint at each end) you see im kinda at my limit on moving the engine back at the moment,it rubbs that arm, anoying!
i think in these machines there was major desigh flaws....
pipeous
Well-Known Member
You know, when I was running for thunder tiger, I got the ST-1 truggy and it had a brace on top of the chassis screwed from the bottom. Same idea to remove the flex where the flywheel protrudes. At first I saw it and wondered wtf was this piece doing here, made no sense.... until I was corrected... I am going to take a closer look and see if I can't make something similar... your idea has spawned it, I just like the idea of a cleaner look so inside the chassis it goes.... if it will fit that is, and counter sink screws and tap the brace. I might not have as much flex being mine is a buggy but after seeing you disintegrate so many layshafts and gears.... come to think of it, Wolfcalibur detonated some on his marder and probably the same reason
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
hello pipeous
i don't know if it is me or slaw you are trying to talk to,i presume it is both of us.
what do you suggest i do?:helpsmilie::helpsmilie:
i don't know if it is me or slaw you are trying to talk to,i presume it is both of us.
what do you suggest i do?:helpsmilie::helpsmilie:
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #290
Pipe..That chassie mod I did will fit inside under the engine..I just didn't feel like taking it apart at the time..I was Still checking why the transfer gears and diff gears were getting chewed up...I guess I could put the brace on the inside when I tear it down..If I can get it apart...I used Jb Weld...
Dc..Let me see a picture of the arms hitting or those rods..Maybe I can come up with a solution for ya
your talking about where the spur gears correct?.....Did you go with extendeded rear up rights?and get the riser's to raise your upper
control arms..to keep the supr gear from hitting the upper....I can do a search..I know what they look like....AKASlawhammer
Dc..Let me see a picture of the arms hitting or those rods..Maybe I can come up with a solution for ya
your talking about where the spur gears correct?.....Did you go with extendeded rear up rights?and get the riser's to raise your upper
control arms..to keep the supr gear from hitting the upper....I can do a search..I know what they look like....AKASlawhammer
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dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
pic,,,,,of arm at the rear(turnbukle)
here slaw any help very helpful )
now i already took 3 to 4 mill off of this arm and it isnt rubbing at all now,it never was rubbing but a bit too close,the main problem slaw is vibrations moving the engine up front towards fuel tank and away from layshaft pinion..
that is my problem from first day and this is the reason i cannot drill aditional holes where you said to move engine back,im back far enough already.
here is how close it actually is to that rear arm.
first pic on top and second with 3mm taken off the rear arm.
hope this helps.
here slaw any help very helpful )
now i already took 3 to 4 mill off of this arm and it isnt rubbing at all now,it never was rubbing but a bit too close,the main problem slaw is vibrations moving the engine up front towards fuel tank and away from layshaft pinion..
that is my problem from first day and this is the reason i cannot drill aditional holes where you said to move engine back,im back far enough already.
here is how close it actually is to that rear arm.
first pic on top and second with 3mm taken off the rear arm.
hope this helps.
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #292
Let me see the hub with the arm..take the wheel off...I think you need different rear uprights..so you can add extenders..to raise the arm...AKASlawhammer
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
and here.
lucky i have these pics handy already,saves me taking off the wheel lol
yeah i was going to buy them raisers already but want to go down another road if thats possible to avoid putting them on.... maybe..
here anyhow.
lucky i have these pics handy already,saves me taking off the wheel lol
yeah i was going to buy them raisers already but want to go down another road if thats possible to avoid putting them on.... maybe..
here anyhow.
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slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #294
dc..went and did a search....well you will need to get FG 7478 rear lengthner
and Fg6478/01 & Fg6478/02....Think hobby tec has them......I have to do the same thing on my firehammer...got those parts...May upper control arms will hit the spur if I do any jumping...I could set the limit screws..so the arm does not drop low down....
That diagram I drew was for after you got your mesh set..keeps the engine from moving forward to the fuel tank...But I think if you make a brace for the chassie flex ..your engine won't move on you......My engine never moved after I put on that brace for flex....Your diff mounts just like mine...I have alloy diff plates..& Fg8484 diff..
by changing to different alloy up roghts & lengthners is the only way for the upper control arm not to rub the spur gear.....AKAslawhammer
and Fg6478/01 & Fg6478/02....Think hobby tec has them......I have to do the same thing on my firehammer...got those parts...May upper control arms will hit the spur if I do any jumping...I could set the limit screws..so the arm does not drop low down....
That diagram I drew was for after you got your mesh set..keeps the engine from moving forward to the fuel tank...But I think if you make a brace for the chassie flex ..your engine won't move on you......My engine never moved after I put on that brace for flex....Your diff mounts just like mine...I have alloy diff plates..& Fg8484 diff..
by changing to different alloy up roghts & lengthners is the only way for the upper control arm not to rub the spur gear.....AKAslawhammer
dc2, are you using the two bolts that bolt on both sides of the motor and attach the side shields to the motor? These will help keep the motor in place as well.
The lengthener set is the only thing that will help the hitting. I don't use them, yet and just dremeled the rod a bit. You have alloy rear uprights so you should have no problem just fitting them on.
Without them when the motor is set correctly the shaft will be real close to the gear but with the lower alloy arms you will have a bit less movement.
Another thing I use under my alloy motor mounts is the 3M self adhesive spray. It sets up and helps hold it from vibrating.
The lengthener set is the only thing that will help the hitting. I don't use them, yet and just dremeled the rod a bit. You have alloy rear uprights so you should have no problem just fitting them on.
Without them when the motor is set correctly the shaft will be real close to the gear but with the lower alloy arms you will have a bit less movement.
Another thing I use under my alloy motor mounts is the 3M self adhesive spray. It sets up and helps hold it from vibrating.
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dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
btb i think you are after waking me up a bit lol
sure i am not using my side plate bolts at one side at all,for reasons being the bloddy bolt kept vibrating loose and kept loosing them(loads) so what i done was used a shorter one inside just straight through the jetpro mounting bracket.
mmm i think your right btb,the side plates defo firm up the engine if you think about it.
i have all my parts coming now monday so when i am fitting engine to new chassis i am going to use sealent on the screws and mounts,and also use my side plate bolts.
should sort out that prob hopefully...
sure i am not using my side plate bolts at one side at all,for reasons being the bloddy bolt kept vibrating loose and kept loosing them(loads) so what i done was used a shorter one inside just straight through the jetpro mounting bracket.
mmm i think your right btb,the side plates defo firm up the engine if you think about it.
i have all my parts coming now monday so when i am fitting engine to new chassis i am going to use sealent on the screws and mounts,and also use my side plate bolts.
should sort out that prob hopefully...
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #297
dc..I don't have a Fg so I can't really say about those side rails....I had to work with what the firehammer has and make work for the engine not to move....
As for your screws or bolts coming loose from the vibration....I would usr green lock tite
more of a permanent fix...Next to JB Weld...You can still get the green lock tite loose..
But it is a real female dog.......
As to your upper control arms..mine & yours are pretty much the same.....
You will get it figured out..AKASlawhammer
As for your screws or bolts coming loose from the vibration....I would usr green lock tite
more of a permanent fix...Next to JB Weld...You can still get the green lock tite loose..
But it is a real female dog.......
As to your upper control arms..mine & yours are pretty much the same.....
You will get it figured out..AKASlawhammer
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
cheers slaw
i never saw the green loctite in my travels.
wonder where i will pick up that.
what way is red?
i have loads of red but never found it great.
the thing that bothers me about the loctites is when it grips its a pain to get loose those screws,and more often than not they just damage the heads......
visicous cyrcle.
i never saw the green loctite in my travels.
wonder where i will pick up that.
what way is red?
i have loads of red but never found it great.
the thing that bothers me about the loctites is when it grips its a pain to get loose those screws,and more often than not they just damage the heads......
visicous cyrcle.
slawhammer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #299
dc...on the lock tites...In this order..1. purple 2. Blue 3. Red 4. Green
each going up in being stronger....With Red & Green you have to use heat to melt the lock tite to loosen.....With out heat you will damage stuff or break it....If you try to use red on the engine exhaust bolts..It will melt..That's way I safety wire my bolts for the exhaust..
do a google search for the green lock tite then you will find it...Years back automotive shops used it for when they replaced sleeve's in engine blocks for the pistons..
Just like a nitro sleeve......AKASlawhammer
each going up in being stronger....With Red & Green you have to use heat to melt the lock tite to loosen.....With out heat you will damage stuff or break it....If you try to use red on the engine exhaust bolts..It will melt..That's way I safety wire my bolts for the exhaust..
do a google search for the green lock tite then you will find it...Years back automotive shops used it for when they replaced sleeve's in engine blocks for the pistons..
Just like a nitro sleeve......AKASlawhammer
pipeous
Well-Known Member
the only place I ever used green loktite in rc was on helis. that was to secure the outside of the bearing race to plastic parts so the bearing did it's job rather than spin inside the plastic and wear it out.