New to1/5 Scale..Slawhammer's Project

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Hey Trip...Every one who reads and leaves some thing in my thread is special....
we all are here as hobby friends.....sharing information about different RC Toyz.....
Like CSP said once....there should be a section in the forum for say......
Have coffee with slawhammer....Talk about what ever you want....just too vent a little
Rain day here..playing the wait game for parts.......Slawhammer
 
Trip said:
Did you notice you were Slaw's 1000th post!!! You are so special!
Click to expand...

I think I'm graduated from intern!!! :smartass:


This is a long thread. I love it when someone says, look in this thread but aren't specific about which page! LOL :clown:
 
Hey CSP..you can have the honor's of new guru of the master of the firehammer...
I should sit back and retire....and give a little advice here & there ..once in a while....
About time too end this thread.....Began a new chapter...........Slawhammer
 
Yup Csp..You can have the honor's if getting chapter 2 going....The firehammer build has been long enough......Slawhammer
 
Hey Pipe..Cuz you know the mfg model is never the way you want it to be anyway...
Besides most of us guys love the joy of the build...We all have different ideas what we want the model to look like..custom made just for you.....Slawhammer
 
you bet. I enjoy the build more than I do driving tbh. I went back through the thread to look at your chassis mod again. is it flexing between the engine and dif mount? I had chassis stiffeners on the car but they ran down the sides. almost considering running a dif riser so can put the metal inside under the dif... comparing the semi and mt. I have a chunk of angle steel sitting here. I could hacksaw a chunk to fit but not sure I want it under the chassis like that
 
Yes the chassie flex's from in front of the engine back past the diff..It flex's in the center of the pan.....I did it on the bottom
as not to use diff risers...I have had no issues with it that way....You can mount inside
the chassie..but you will have to rise the diff 10mm higher....I also noticed the front flex's as well ..causing some extra servo movement...But a alloy radio tray or carbon fiber tray
should stiffen that up...you may have to add a couple extra posts for the radio tray as well
I just have not done that yet......I might mount up the 4 hole tray I have and do the duel steering servo's.... so far my Rhino digi 4 servo has been working very well on the steering...I did down size the wheels & tires a bit.......I have big massive Fg wheels & tires....But takes lots of power to turn those...engine wise & servo.....Slawhammer
 
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Just putting mine together again now. the cen shocks fit perfectly. springs seem a bit soft for my liking and are a bit smaller circumference than the ones on it so now swapping unless I dremmel out the stock spring retainers to fit over the cen shock ends... before I start changing that I have to reassemble everything and see. then I can rip apart again to mod and change oil. can't ask a suggestion for oil because every shock is different and so are our opinions on what to use hehe... the oil in them smells like tranny fluid though. stinky stuff

thanks again Slaw. I'll figure something out. one way or the other. never thought about the chassis flexing because I have been running on road. never had the problem in my marders but it has a shorter chassis so that might be part of the flew problem
 
Looks good pipe...I got a small parts order today...But not what I am waiting for..
I need what I got..but not at this time..just some e-clips.nuts,bolts, pull starter..
little things you use all the time.....Waiting on engine bearings.....Slawhammer
 
I saw back about 400 pages, you guys were talking about that spare mount on the motor case and I got to thinking about it. the one side is held with the odd brace, so why not just make something from that mount to the top of the other side of the bulkhead. I made one from plastic first, then shaped some aluminum square stock. I was given an anvil so had to play with it. it needed a little twist in 2 directions but it fits and is holding strong so far. I'll make it prettier later. Can't take a picture.... my camera died. I think the battery is toast, lens won't retract even. It was dead, charged on usb, got 3 pics of my bud's pocketquad rc we were working on tonight, it died and never came to life again...

oh well. if you could only go through and make a highlight thread of the useful stuff and condense it, delete the babble like mine ;)
 
Pipe...I thought about a couple braces long time ago..mainly to keep engine from moving
forward......When you get your camera charged up..take a couple pictures....
Now as too thread being highlighted or just tech stuff......That would be like a manual
no body reads until there in trouble.....By having some dfferent opinions mixed in the thread makes it interesting to read....and some off the wall dribble as well....Slawhammer
 
Hey Pipe..I also thought of taping 2 3mm holes in front of the engine mounts in the chassie pan...just screw in a couple cap bolts....that would keep the engine from moving forward..
For now I have been using double back sticky tape on the bottom of the engine mounts..
Seems to work...engine has not moved..always check the engine mount screws before
running and again after a run...to see if still tight....Just a habit I do now..since shucking out 3 gears in the past..........Slawhammer
 
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thankyou

haven't been on here long but already am a fan of yours slaw. pictures and details of your trials and errors here on this forum will help many.

p.s. haven't been on here long enough to read all your posts...hehe
 
Hey Bandit....Glad you find the information useful......hope you enjoy the long reading
That's what the information is for.....Slawhammer
 
Well the old slawhammer has been busy.....Like I said the engine was making a racket
and clanking noise........I took the engine apart...I did notice some gouges in the fly wheel
think the coil dropped.....on my set up the coil is attached to the cooling head...
so if it comes loose then the coil will move as well...that may have been the problem..
I took the clutch apart...and used all new fixing bolts washers....
Pulled the marine cylinder....very little play in the piston...Crank spins free....
no binding or grinding..so the engine bearing are still good......
inside of the cylinder was just like new in side.....So I decided to put a new piston ring
on and go from there.....I used a copper base gasket.....all back together...
has to cure 24 hours....So will be ready to run sunday..............
I still think they could have came up with a better way to hold the cooling head on the cylinder.....using 2/2mm short screws...not enough to do the job correctly in my opinion
.......I felt the engine bearings were still ok......So there you have the lastest...........
..................................Slawhammer.....................
 
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