new toy rtr bonzi 50 inch

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this is my bonzi quiet pipe, i pulled the birds nest out of it befor i reinstalled it, i was also tempted to cut the inner cone, but i thought i better not, as soon as i can i will buy the bonzi race pipe tail end and try that out, but i will say this pipe is nice and quiet, much softer on the ears then my large scale off road pipes ive had, i like the idea how you can unscrew the quiet pipe and screw a race pipe on the end of it and off you go again.


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well i put the guts back in the boat, changed a couple things slighty, i shorted the vacume line for the water pump to 6 inches as thats as short as i could make it, i hear 5 inch is about the maxium you want it to be.

i had a good old fun time setting up the new throttle cable out of a old 29cc whipper snipper and using the throttle pivote post from steve on the carbie side, it is my first time playing with a set up like that and it was a pain in the arse, but the effort was well worth it ive got a smooth fast throttle set up.

the new o-rings in the exhaust coupler are slightly thicker then the old ones, they fit great and are alot more snug then the old ones so i think my water leaks from the coupler are solved fingers crossed.

i moved the tinny tack around to face the other way to suit me better, shortend the pico kill switch wires not 100% happy with the wiring but its v1 so im sure v2 and v3 will be alot better as this is just my first run at them.

i got an email from ken at RETALLICK ENGINEERING saying my props was finshed and express posted back to me today so that should be here monday, witch is my payday so perfect day to take the boat out for a fang

all in all its good fun and easyer to work on the my large scale off roads and i have not down it a billion times so it was fun, kept me bussy.


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well i spent some time setting the trim tabs and the strut to run parallel with the hull and set the rudder up using a level to sit straight up and down to get ready to start again with the new prop.

i noticed a couple of things this time around, the rudder is off to the right and a little on a angle, its not bend from my crash, i cant get it 100% perfect, but there is some movemnt int he bolt hols it looks like the holes thru the hull might be a little off ill tweek it a little, as its not off by to much and see how i go i might need to rhem the holes a tad.

i also noticed when using a straight edge on the rear of the hull to line up the strut and the trim tabs there is a some low spots on the hull a mm or so, i know with real race boats they don't like this due to suction so i asume its the same with rc boats.

if i noticed this when i was replairing the hull i would of leveled it out and made it flush, but im not stripping the boat again to do it now, ill leave it for another time as i think beeing a spot rc boat users its not that important, but a flush level hull to start with would be the go.

im keen to take the boat out, so im just double checking every thing playing around with the pool noodles and admiring the boat as to me its a sweet looking boat a bit on the blingy side but very sexy

im hoping since i got 50.77 mph (81.71 km/h) in ruff water with the boat i will be able to get back there soon and mabe keep hitting 50 mph or higher, for a rtr sport boat with a quiet pipe a basic rtr unbalenced blunt prop to hit 50 mph with a guy who don't have a clue behind the wheel, i was impressed so i hope that continues and was not a one of fluke.

i see guys with custom built boats with big dollar high hp motors, big pipes, flash expencive balenced, sharpend and polished props, with loads of rc boat knowlage and or help for expernice boat racers hitting 55 to 60 mph with the same sized or smaller hulls, so the bonzi rtr out of the box isnt far off the mark and worth the money

if i knew what i was doing and had experience or experienced racers around me im sure i could hit the mark or get up there alot quicker, in octoba i will take the boat upto mandurah if i can to have a look at the rc boat club, to see how the boys up there do it, and have a run with some other boat and see how there boats are set up, and suck up as much advice and knowlage as i can.
 
well today is a great day beatiful weather, but i cant take the boat out :-(

so i redid the rudder and strut for every thing lined up and square, move the water pump forward 1/2 inch and managed to get the vacume line done from 6 inch to 5 inch as it started out at 7 inch.

i forgot mondays a puplic holiday, so no prop till tuesday :-(
 
beautiful day today, would of been perfect to take the boat out if i was able.

so i made up a real technical bit of rc boat gear today called rc gas boat onland water supply version 2.

my first one was 10 ltrs with 7 usable ltrs this new one is 20 ltrs with 15 usable ltrs, instead of pushin the water hose into the container witch was a pain in the first one, i used 10/32 water fittings very profesional.

the new system means i don't have to use bricks to rise the hight of the water container and give me another 8 ltrs of water (15 ltrs usable) so i can get around 20 mins running on land, so i can flush the cooling system and i can make iddle and low end carb needle changes (but no full wot running) and check for leaks in the cooling sytem and so on.

this new version 2 technical bit of rc boat gear isnt not a clear container like the first one, but because it has two lids on the top i can easly see how much water is left in it and know when to refill it if needed.


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Hey Shane my friend...All looking good with the boat....Nice to take the family camping
as well as to have a little fun with the hobby......Have the wify shoot some vids for ya..
Best to you my friend.....Slaw
 
well today i ran the boat onland, to see if i have fixed my water leak from the exhaust coupler, the leak into the hull is a hell of a lot better just an occasional drop not a stream like before, but im getting water leaking into the pipe and spraying out the back, not cool, so my dry tuned pipe is not a wet system lols.

i will pull everything out of the boat and start again, but from closer inspection the top water fitting is sitting inside the lip on the top of the hull and is pushing the pipe to the left side of the hull, so i will buy a 90 degree water fitting as soon as i can and see if this helps.

i will do mock up enigne pipe mount up to see if no water fittings make the pipe sit better so i know a 90 degree on the top is needed and see if the hole thru the back of the baot for the pipe needs to be modded to run the pipe straighter and not causing the pipe to leak, as its had a water leak since i go it.

on a postive note by removing 2 + inchs of the vacuum line from the carb spacer to the water pump has seemed to impoved the iddling of the motor and it seems to be more responsive on the low end, not sure on the high side yet as i cant rev the motor to full wot on land with no load on the prop shaft.

i also changed the throttle servo to a high speed hitec but i think the motor reaction has improved not just the speed of the servo/throttle cable (i mean more the motor its self) i also change the champion plug to a nkg as it seem to have a slightly better spark and i like nkg better.

so today was sort of hit and miss kind of moment, with some improvements and the water leak still, but im confident if i could hit 50.77mph (81.71 kmh) with a blunt rtr prop that i ruffly balanced, and having not one clue about rc gas boat set up of any kind and changing to a slightly smaller sharpend and balanced prop done by a racer with alot more experience then me, and the shorter vacuum line form the carb spacer to the water pump, i think i should be able to exceed 50 mph (80 kmh) and with the shorter vacuum line i should not be robbing as much pulse pressure from the motor, so it should perform better.

also the auto bailer i installed seems to be doing its job, when the boat is flaoting in my daughters kiddy pool its not taking on water, but if you put water in the hull it drains out if you tip the boat up, so it should work like it should when the boat is running, but i will keep a close eye on it just incase and i have put more floatation in the front of the boat as thats the only place i could fit it....

the water container that i put a couple of water fittings into the boat worked well and i should get over 30 mins of running onland if need be out of it, but theres no need to run it for that long on land i don't think.

any way today was positive and negitive, ive got more work to do and more learning to do and more reseach to do, just keen to have a drive at the lake to see if the new prop is an improvement and to see if the smaller but easier to adjust trim tabs are better and play with the settings on the prop angle, trim tabs, rudder caster if needed and mabe the carb tune, as its still running very rich, the boat has potential and i think its the driver who might be holding the boat back at this stage lols

here is a quick video of the boat running with the water container i made up yesterday, and you can see smoke and water coming out the exhaust not good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSy7VMkB2Dw
 
ok i had another go and the exhaust, new orings i took 4 out of the exhaust coupler when i pulled the boat apart for repairs.

i only put 3 back in lols as there is only 3 groves for the orings, so i put new orings in and i put 4 in this time, but it still leaked a slight constant drip inside the hull and a nice spray out the end of exhuast out the back of the boat.

when i drain the water out of the pipe and start the motor and pull, the pipe towards the motor the leak inside the hull stops but the water leaking into the pipe does not stop.

today is the second time ive run the boat out of water the first run was in a pool then the lake, i have run the boat of land after running at the lake for a short time, and noticed a a bit of water out the exhaust but i thought this was frum running at the lake as the boat died and was sitting in the ate for a while.

the header pipe can not go any further into the coupler as its hitting home, so i need to change the angle the pipe sits at like i need to bing the pipe closer to the header and change the angle so it seats better and don't leak.

it been leaking since ive had the boat, and more work is needed to fix the leak, i was hopping new better o-rings did the triick but no, i have given up on working on it today as its getting cold and started raining again.
 
well played with the pipe more got it better but not perfect, still a bit of water going into the pipe.

so i did a big no no i used hi temp rtv silicone and use it on the exhaust coupler but only the expantion chamber side, so when i side the exhaust coupler on the header, the silicone is pushed away from the water fittings as i was woried baout bloke the weaer inlet and outlet up and cooking the pipe.

i will let it set over night and will run it tomorow if the pipe isnt spraying water oput the end ill take it to the lake as my prop should be at the post office.
 
well i got my prop back from Ken from Retallick Engineering in australia.

im happy, good comunication, fast turn around and the price was right, we only talked about sharpening and balencing but this one came back shinny.


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this is a stainless steel S270 prop it was very blunt and had a thick cutting edge more so then the brone B275 prop my boat came with, the S270 prop is now sharp not sharp enough to cut your finger off but sharp enough to catch of your figer prints so to me thats sharp and its balenced well.

from what ive been reading there is performance gains from a a sharp and balenced smooth props so they slice through the water more easly, so im looking forward to giving this prop a try, it no prop shop modded prop but it should be an improvement over my stock out of the box rtr blunt prop.

since the S270 is slightly small size and pitch im hopping for rev and speed increase, pitty the waethers crap with rain and hail for the next couple of days as i would like to take the boat of for a spin on the lake. as i think the exhaust water leak is fixed for now.


this is what the prop looked like that came with my boat

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heres what it looks like now after i attacked it

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this is what the new prop looked like befor i sent it to Ken from Retallick Engineering

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this is what it lookes like now since i got it back from Ken at Retallick Engineering

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i had a quick run with the new prather S270 prop today cause it was smaller and i removed the baffels out of the bonzi quite pipe i wasnt sure so i ritchened up the high end just over 1/8th of a turn out and with every thing set level with the hull it whent well, but only 43.7 mph (70.3 kmh) at 16000 rpm.

so that prop pulled another 1000 rpm with a ritcher carb settings on the high end, i didnt bother playing with the set up and strut i was having to much fun and just drove the boat for 30 mins and had fun.

so it was an improvment in a way but its very close to the max rpm of the power range, later on ill play with the set up some more and see if it will go quicker, just could be bothered today as i was having fun and didnt have the time needed to play around with set up.

i had 800 ml,s of fuel on board and there was upto max of one inch chop at most, im getting a little left to ritch rock again like when i removed the trim tabs so more work is needed with the hull and set up i might have the trim tabs to far up the transom around 4mm ?

43 mph isnt to bad no records but still a fun speed, call me stupid but i think theres more there im looking foward to trying a difrent set up and trying steves 70/16-2 prop out also and seeing how that goes


a few pictures


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a quick vid just cruzing


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FY2P5xE9cvI



this is the left and right rock im talking about

the boat is to far away but you can here it and just see it, i call it tank slapping the motor bike guys will know what i mean


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngIqFKRyYKU
 
in all 3 of the above pictures the boats tuning, they make better shots then going straight

but here is a couple going straight


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Loving the vids/thread Benckie, after the smash i bet your just happy to get it back out there, i know as i'm waiting to get me motorbike back on the road after my accident.
Still 44mph is pretty rapid bud, can you get the camera man/woman to zoom for some close ups.

big E
 
jackobyte said:
Loving the vids/thread Benckie, after the smash i bet your just happy to get it back out there, i know as i'm waiting to get me motorbike back on the road after my accident.
Still 44mph is pretty rapid bud, can you get the camera man/woman to zoom for some close ups.

big E
Click to expand...


i know the camera is very poor, if you zoon in while filming you cant even make out there is a boat on the lake, its a very checp camera it takes good pictures but film is just not its thing



charlieboy said:
glad to see it out on the water again benckie :)

vids are great, lookvery quick out there ;)
Click to expand...


yeah just happy its back on the water and running again
 
yesterday while preping the boat to take out to day, i gave the boat a quick run onland to check the water leak into the pipe, im glad its still not leaking water back into the pipe.

i noticed my tiny tach was not showing the iddle revs and all the numbers are lit up and so are the menue options and pressing the select button is doing nothing.

bugger the tiny tach has never been submurged but that shouldnt matter as they are ment to be water prooof and has only be run for 4 hours and is only a few weeks old.

now i get the joy in trying to get answers or warnty from the usa when i live in australia
 
i took the boat out today and what a difrence steves 7016-2 prop made, the water was glass like, and with a slight 2mm positive change to the prop angle my s270 prop hit 68 kmh and the boat was running wet.

i put steves 7016-2 prop on and the boat gained 6 kmh and was running out of the water, to the point it was a bit on the wild side to hang on to, so i put the boat back to nutural set up and it was a little slower but handles well and out of the hole it was a tad slower but the boat was running alot nicer on the water and the nose was up.

i should of just adjsuted the trim tabs to the negitive side but i didnt, but to me this prop improved the nose up and improved the speed, no idea of the revs and my tiny tach kicked the bucket.

here is a quick vid of when i first put steves 7016-2 prop on a bit loose and it was wheeling all the time, its hard to see cause of the crap camera but the porp was hard to hang on ot and want to flip back wards.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNGgrPPmSWc



here is a quick vid of the same prop with a full nutural set up, its hard to see cause of the crap camera but it it was more nose up on the same setting as the prathra s270 prop.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FlKsXYJVEM



my day was cut short cause i had my first breakage today, the rudder pin worked its way 50% so it was only hanging on the top lug of the rudder the boat got a bit loose and cart wheeled across the water and manged the bend the rudder mount on the rudder that bad it would not fit back on, so i tryed to bend it back so i could keep running and i broke it off, it was cracked thru, and i know i should of waited till i got home and put some heat on it, but i was rushing.


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bonzi,s basic usps shipping to australia is 29 usd or fedex 52 usd so ill hit them up and see if i can get a new rudder with cheaper shipping, cause i cant realy afford that right now and it would be cheaper to buy a complete rudder and drive set up off ebay and ill see if i can get the tinny tac sorted out as i missed that today
 
ive been doing some thinking since yesterdays outing

since the boat with the prather B275 and S270 was running wet, the next prop 7016-2 on the same set up was porpoising (nose hopping) but was not running wet and look good in the water as far as planing goes, but it was hard to hang on to it was on the edge of controll and going for a ride in the rescue boat.

next outing since i can use this borrowed prop for a little longer once i sort the rudder out, i will set it up back on the edge of contol as the boat was fast just loose, and then ill adjusts the tabs bit by bit untill its back under control.

ill have to go a little more on the trim tabs i think on the wet side as when the water is a little more choppy the boat is faster and gets out of the water easyer, like you say, and i to have noticed upto a 3 mph (5 kmh) speed agin in choppy water as more of the hull comes out of the water.

ill also have to figer out where the rudder caster comes into it, as when the boat was porpoising (nose hopping) it was up and out of the water at that angle the boat was ridding on the rudder would of been angles forward to the transom at iits stock loaction.

i think the rudder angle would be a quicker and easyer adjustment to make to see if it works or not, so i might try this first befor the trim tabs to see if theres any improment and if its settles the boat a little then i can move onto the trim tabs.

with the bonzie cz out drive sytem i only have one adjustment for the rudder and thats away for the transom and when i say adjustment i mean the angle as it can only pivote from the top of the drive system so away from the bottom of the transom, most rudders i see they look like they have no adjsutement.

if my understanding is correct a kicked back rudder will force the bow down and make the boat run wet. a kicked forrward ruder with force the bow up and make the boat run loose

so if my boat is running loose and is flighty if ive read correctly moving the rudder towards the transom will keep the nose down, then with slight rudder then trim tab's adjustmens for the finaly trim. (but if i change prop then i will need to start all over again)

im either starting to get it and its all comming together or ive missed the poiint, beare in mind ive only had 7 very short outings with the boat and i have only played with set up on 2 ocations very quickly, but ive read enought stuff to explode my brain 3 times over.

if i didnt see 50 mph (81 kmh) on the gps on a earlyer outing i would be more then happy with 45 mph (75 kmh), but now ill be chasing the 50 mph
 
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i had a chat with bonzi last night and worked out a cheaper shipping option thats not to slow and got a new rudder for $67 aud posted, its has brass water fittings brass bushes and ss set srews so im happy with that
 
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