Nutech Thunderbolt 2

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Buddy made a short one of the bike wheely. Still impresses me he was able to ride someone else's gas powered mountain bike first time, and catch the wheely on film. he was leaning over and back..


I did some work to the TB2 today. My center dif is locked now. I opened it up and couldn't get the gears out. I'll just order some new gears and pin the cut the pin in the case. I'll have to clean that case up a little better I guess... I also changed the stock wheel squares to fg 14mm ones I had. I was looking at all the extra threads on there and thought why not try. I like the extra width and cost nothing
http://vimeo.com/11846825
 
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well it's been a while since I updated this thread. the buggy has been solid and needed nothing so I just drive it... well I ordered the new cnc c hubs and knuckles

I am going to give my initial impressions, some good, some bad.... no sugar coating here ;)

I open the package and the first thing I notice is the backwards L on the C Hub. Reminded me of my skateboard wheels, I had Road Rider 4's when doing serious boarding, and I had backward D's... this made them a rare run that this happened on... I wonder how many backward L's there are out on these?

Ok, so you can see 4 teflon bushings (there really should be spares included with the package, anything could happen to lose one and it'd suck to be down until you got one) for the hinge pins. the brass bushings are distance spacers for the knuckle bearings. this is something that is really needed and glad they are included. Now you can crank down on the wheel nuts without as much worry of binding up the bearings since the force will stay on the center part of the bearing race. I applaud Nutech for incl these.

The 4 bolts for securing the knuckles to the c hubs has a spot on back for a setscrew. this is to keep the bolt from backing out... this is my complaint area. why are there threads all the way to the bottom of the bolt? you can't fully tighten the bolt in and you have threads to cut up the bushing. It still needed a bolt similar to the original design with unthreaded area, like I made for the bottom side. You could fully tighten the bolt, have 2 smooth surfaces for probably one of the most frictioned areas on the rc, and have the set screws to ensure they don't fall out. Please Chris, I'm not ragging here for nothing. I just want to see this vehicle and parts to show this is one of the best rc's made. please look into this and provide proper bolts for this application. a simple fix will go a long way to customers satisfaction and more sales ;)

Ok so I have to look and see if I have a couple more exhaust manifold bolts to cut and tap. dam not sure I have the energy to tap bolts today, that's a lot of twisting. and I hope the 2 I made for the bottom, which have never come loose I might add, will fit this application

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I took a couple pics. first is to show the new style fg wheel squares I use. the setscrew is 3mm (friggin huge!) and connects on the corner of the square rather than on the flat. much more bite and less likely to come loose (Chris, check these out dude ;) )

Second is a comparison of all the parts, aside from my hacked up c hubs.

I also did a video to explain a little and show how my universals have awesome travel

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Ok first, the Nutech alloy ends, even with the added spacers, fits sloppy in the c hub. I decided to use a bearing I had in the spares bin to take up the added space. It's a little larger than the spacer so added a tiny bit of caster but negligable. Caster for those that don't know is the rotation of the knuckle clockwise and counterclockwise when looking from the side

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and here's a little trick to get loktite where you need it and not where you don't. put the bolt through the bushing first and hold the bolt upside down and apply loktite. Install the bolt from below, much like a nitro guy would put a glowplug in so the washer doesn't fall out

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Another handy trick is to remember to put a dab of shoe goo over those c clips. this keeps them from coming off as easy and even if they do from a collision, they usually stay hanging there.

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Nobody in China can see youtube or vimeo videos.

and ya the stock plastic turnbuckle is wider across that part. It's all good. old nitro clutchbell bearings I had in the screw bin. still have another 4 or 5 in there still ;) ... adding a bearing is never a bad thing. mine is snug now
 
The new knuckles and hubs gives significantly more steering lock than the V2's I'm running, but these V3's are going to be £200 =(

Might be able to machine the V2 knuckles a little..
 
Chris, I put one on photobucket so you can sorta see what I mean. The bolts need an unthreaded area. Then you can bolt it up tight to the knuckle with loktite. the added setscrew you guys put on would then just be an extra failsafe and the front end would be bomb proof. that and the bushing won't wear out with threads cutting in, or worse it won't make the bushing spin in the beautiful aluminum part and cause premature wear.

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