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Well dammit! Rain let up a little this afternoon. I got the motor to fire for the first time with little drama, but it died on me due to low idle screw as it warmed up. Tried starting it again and my starter pawl split, it made the worst cracking sound!

So bummer there. I guess I shouldn't be surprised. The damn thing has been in use for a decade now. It was bound to happen and this motor has some killer compression... Ordered a new pawl, hopefully it will get here by Saturday or Sunday so I can get back to breaking her in.
You should have watched my obr start vid???
don't buy the clone starters ?? the reed case will eat them ??
 
I appreciate the advice, but this is not my first time around the bend. ?

I've been in the baja world since day 1 and I've had this 5t since 2008. I already inspected everything on the pullstart prior to ordering the pawl and have rebuillt it numerous times, so I know it is sound. I lacked the foresight to realize that the pawl might have become brittle over the years. That was totally my failure.

But please, I'd thank you not to approach me like I'm some complete newb with no understanding of my rig or how everything on it works. (y)
 
I appreciate the advice, but this is not my first time around the bend. ?

I've been in the baja world since day 1 and I've had this 5t since 2008. I already inspected everything on the pullstart prior to ordering the pawl and have rebuillt it numerous times, so I know it is sound. I lacked the foresight to realize that the pawl might have become brittle over the years. That was totally my failure.

But please, I'd thank you not to approach me like I'm some complete newb with no understanding of my rig or how everything on it works. (y)
Just trying to be helpful ??
 
Just trying to be helpful

And I appreciate it! But I already owned the issue and why it happened a few posts prior. ? I had assumed posting that I was ordering a pawl rather than an entire pullstart would establish me as someone who knows a thing or two about these motors. But, I can see where someone less experienced might get some vital information from your posts.
 
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So @dougstar here's my chance to eat crow. :eek:

The spool was just fine, but I didn't check the housing. Plopped in the new pawl, and got her started once again without issues. After the case loaded and the engine died, I tried again and the whole thing just kind of...went all bonkers. Made a burping noise and the cord wouldn't retract. Turns out that there was a fracture in the pullstart housing running along on the entire bottom side that I had missed. When I cranked the motor, the whole housing twisted just the slightest bit. This caused the housing threads holding everything in place to torque and stripped out the center bolt.

Sooo, new pullstart for this one...
 
So @dougstar here's my chance to eat crow. :eek:

The spool was just fine, but I didn't check the housing. Plopped in the new pawl, and got her started once again without issues. After the case loaded and the engine died, I tried again and the whole thing just kind of...went all bonkers. Made a burping noise and the cord wouldn't retract. Turns out that there was a fracture in the pullstart housing running along on the entire bottom side that I had missed. When I cranked the motor, the whole housing twisted just the slightest bit. This caused the housing threads holding everything in place to torque and stripped out the center bolt.

Sooo, new pullstart for this one...
Maybe shoulda just got a new pullstart ??
 
Maybe shoulda just got a new pullstart ?

Yup. ? That was pure ego on my part ?. I totally underestimated the compression on this motor. And overestimated the condition of my old pullstart. Would definitely recommend anyone getting a new OBR or ESP modded long block to get a new pullstart.

I'm willing to admit when I'm wrong! ?

Bright side: I have a brand new pawl and most of a pullstart assembly for back up!
 
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Reed Case motors have a reed valve that leads right into the bottom of the crank case with carbon fiber petals that open when the motor is intaking fuel, and snap shut when it isn't. Compared to a piston port motor, you will have better atomization of the fuel/air mixture and no chance of fuel blowing back through the carb during compression/combustion.

This makes for a higher HP output and higher revs. Piston port motors tend to have a bit more low end torque, but don't rev as high or make as much power in their band as reed cases.

They're pretty much the bomb.

Here's the one I just built: 9.4hp Longblock

BTW, always upgrade to the billet transfer plates. Much cheaper to get them with the motor than to get them after the fact.
rad man, just like on a 2 stroke dirt bike! pedals that let in fuel!
 
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